Stuck UCA Ball Joint

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Thought replacing the replacing the upper ball joint boots on my 2000 Land Cruiser would go smoothly. Driver's side came apart with one blow of the dead hammer. Passenger side, however, won't budge. Hit with hammer several times and no joy. Put a pitman arm puller on but because of the way the arms are configured, the puller can't sit on there straight so pulling at an angle doesn't work. Looking for ideas. Will try heat tomorrow.

View attachment 2547666
What kind of pitman arm puller? I use the following on upper ball joints and it works great. If torque is getting very high, hammer on the end of the driver bolt and the shock while under tension will get a LOT of stuck stuff loose.

Amazon product ASIN B0002KO0PO
That said, I see you aren’t working on a 200 so I’m not sure what I use will fit on yours.
 
I hear ya. Tight quarters there though. Can't hit the nut square because are in the way. Gonna try heat and more hammer blows tomorrow. Can always replace the nut. Ha!
You don’t hit the nut with the hammer. You hit the flat spot on the knuckle. A fast hard hit with a BFH will shock it loose.

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Is the nut even loose in that photo? Looks like the pin is still in. A big Metal hammer - not a dead blow. With the truck jacked up so it wants to droop. The only reason I sometimes leave the nut on (but backed way off) is to avoid damaging the threads if I am sloppy with the hammer.
No...I tightened the nut back uo but since then, loosened the nut and put the pitman arm puller back on to let set overnight. Will do heat tomorrow and hammer.
 
Try a hammer on the end of the puller bolt after you’ve put some tension on it. Trust me. Plus this way you don’t risk deforming the knuckle or even damage the paint on it.
 
Go to the 15 second mark in this video I made. It's on a 100 series but the same process. I've removed tons of BJs and Tie Rod ends and have never used a puller. Just this week I replaced a bent knuckle and tie rod ends on my 200 and the big hammer to the knuckle popped them out in seconds. Thats what the flat spots are for.


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Go to the 15 second mark in this video I made. It's on a 100 series but the same process. I've removed tons of BJs and Tie Rod ends and have never used a puller. Just this week I replaced a bent knuckle and tie rod ends on my 200 and the big hammer to the knuckle popped them out in seconds. Thats what the flat spots are for.


View attachment 2548127

Piece of cake...3 smacks with the BFH and it popped...like you all said. Now, however, I'm finding that the joint is shot and rather than a new boot, I need a new upper ball joint. Question...do I now take the whole upper control arm off and do the replacement on the workbench or do I rent the tool from the local auto parts store and attempt on the car? Either way, I still need the tool.
 
Piece of cake...3 smacks with the BFH and it popped...like you all said. Now, however, I'm finding that the joint is shot and rather than a new boot, I need a new upper ball joint. Question...do I now take the whole upper control arm off and do the replacement on the workbench or do I rent the tool from the local auto parts store and attempt on the car? Either way, I still need the tool.
...or do I get new upper control arms with the ball joint already installed? The price for after market does seem reasonable. And brands recommended or to stay away from?
 
...or do I get new upper control arms with the ball joint already installed? The price for after market does seem reasonable. And brands recommended or to stay away from?
I have SPC UCAs. They are adjustable, which is nice if you have a lift as the Toyota UCAs don't always allow for enough adjustment for you to get the alignment into spec. They run about $550/pair, give or take, and come with a greaseable upper ball joint.

If you are not planning to ever lift the truck, I'd just order replacement Toyota UCAs. Not sure your model year but for my 2013 these are the part #'s

48630-60030 (Left)​

48610-60060 (Right)​

They seem to run about $275 a piece
 
Can one remover the upper control arm and not mess up the alignment?
IMO, yes. There is one massively long bolt holding the UCA in. As long as you don't change the position of the lower adjustment cams, nothing really changes.
 
I think you could get more accurate help in the 100-series section, for what it’s worth. Lots of this stuff carries over but differences like the UCA pivot bolt can throw things off.

 
I have two short bolts but think maybe as long as I only move the outer heads and not the inner, the alignment should be ok.

View attachment 2548333
Just make match marks on the alignment cams and you can put them back to where they were at. It's easy.
 
Thanks. That's where I thought I was?
Nope, this is the 200 section. I think everyone is happy to help (many of us had/have 100 series too). You just might get more help from the 100 forum.
 
Nope, this is the 200 section. I think everyone is happy to help (many of us had/have 100 series too). You just might get more help from the 100 forum.
Agreed. its not that we don’t want to help, just that the help might not be as effective.
 

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