Stuck UCA Ball Joint

[Sac Cerevisiae]

I’m in a pickle. I’m attempting to replace my upper control arms and front struts on my 200 series. I cannot get the upper control arm to release. And now I’ve damaged the ball joint boot.

I have a new upper control arms and ball joints to replace with, however I need help. Does anyone have suggestions. See picture.

 

[ckkone]

Well if it’s already jacked up and you are replacing anyway then cut the damn thing off with a sawzall and a good blade or cut off wheel.

 

[bozochu]

What size hammer you “shocking” the ball joint with?

 

[Sac Cerevisiae]

Started with rubber mallet, advanced to rubber mallet and block of wood, and ended with carpenter hammer. I've also tried levering with a crescent wrench (in lieu of a pickle fork).

I've had to abandon the project for now. Only problem is now I can't reconnect the frond end lower sway bark linkage on the passenger side. I may have to delicately re-park the car in the garage with it disconnected. I've tried jacking up the LCA to get the

 

[bloc]

What kind of puller are you using?

Mine is a pitman arm puller built for lesser vehicles. Works great on those upper ball joints.

 

[Sac Cerevisiae]

What kind of puller are you using?

Mine is a pitman arm puller built for lesser vehicles. Works great on those upper ball joints.

I don't have a puller, was thinking I could get away with a swift blow or two as I've seen done before.

 

[Sac Cerevisiae]

Any thoughts on moving the car a few feet to park with the lower sway bar link disconnected. On any idea on how to get it back alined and bolted?

 

[Fooness]

Either use a ratchet strap to pull it towards the front if it isn't lining up or use a jack stand. Where abouts in Newport Beach are you? I could maybe swing by and offer help.

 

[Sac Cerevisiae]

Newport Coast. Above Spyglass.

 

[bloc]

I don't have a puller, was thinking I could get away with a swift blow or two as I've seen done before.

I have hammered the ever living hell out of toyota tapered joints much smaller than these and had lots of trouble. That's when I moved to using pullers. Plus if you do it right without hammering the joint is usually reusable.

(Edit: you still hammer, only on the puller while there's tension on the joint. That plus the hammering knocks them loose every time)

Moving a few feet with the bar disconnected shouldn't be a problem.

 

[bloc]

If there is an oreilly near you they rent tools for free. This is what you are looking for. There are different sizes sometimes.

 

[bozochu]

Honestly use a bigger hammer. Something smooth faced around 36-40oz...should knock it loose and allow you to finish the job. Hit that unpainted flat part. You need the metal to metal “shock” to get that taper joint to give..

 

[Sac Cerevisiae]

Got the sway bar connected with some help from @Fooness.

I’ll be trying again later with a puller.

 

[bloc]

If the puller doesn’t get it by itself keep the tool tight on the balljoint stub and hammer on the pusher bolt. It will come loose.

Normally I’d say to leave the balljoint nut in place to keep everything from flying apart but you might have trouble getting the nut off the stub if you’ve been hammering hard on it. Personally I’d remove the nut while the taper is still tight.

Also this might sound stupid to some but I’ve learned over the years to use hearing protection when messing with balljoint pullers. There is a LOT of stored energy and when it lets go I’ve made my ears ring for some time after. These days I am unwilling to lose my hearing over some car work..

 

[linuxgod]

+1 on the bigger hammer. A rubber mallet or a small carpenter's hammer won't do it. You need to smack it hard with a 40oz hand maul.

A puller is a better option though. Then again I bought a cheap one off Amazon and ended up breaking it, then resorted to the BFH

 

[Mister Tom]

+1 on the bigger hammer. A rubber mallet or a small carpenter's hammer won't do it. You need to smack it hard with a 40oz hand maul.

A puller is a better option though. Then again I bought a cheap one off Amazon and ended up breaking it, then resorted to the BFH

Thought replacing the replacing the upper ball joint boots on my 2000 Land Cruiser would go smoothly. Driver's side came apart with one blow of the dead hammer. Passenger side, however, won't budge. Hit with hammer several times and no joy. Put a pitman arm puller on but because of the way the arms are configured, the puller can't sit on there straight so pulling at an angle doesn't work. Looking for ideas. Will try heat tomorrow.

 

[linuxgod]

Since you're not trying to save the boot, just try a pickle fork.

I find the hammer method does work, but I needed to use my 2# BFH to get the job done. A small hammer did nothing except leave a ringing in my ears.

 

[Mister Tom]

Since you're not trying to save the boot, just try a pickle fork.

I find the hammer method does work, but I needed to use my 2# BFH to get the job done. A small hammer did nothing except leave a ringing in my ears.

I hear ya. Tight quarters there though. Can't hit the nut square because are in the way. Gonna try heat and more hammer blows tomorrow. Can always replace the nut. Ha!

 

[CharlieS]

3# steel hand sledge.

 

[Nola622]

Is the nut even loose in that photo? Looks like the pin is still in. A big Metal hammer - not a dead blow. With the truck jacked up so it wants to droop. The only reason I sometimes leave the nut on (but backed way off) is to avoid damaging the threads if I am sloppy with the hammer.