Stripping rubberized tar off body?

[Fantom]

Hi Guys,
I am currently in the (never ending) process of fixing rust. I have to remove the undercoating rubberized tar from the wheel wells. I've used the wire wheel but that gets old guickly. Any ideas? I have not tried blasting it yet (ran out of sand).

 

[brownbear]

Blasting doesn't work. I had to use a cupped wire wheel on my angle grinder.

OH ya it s a PITA!!!

I did all my wheel wells this way. It truly is the only way.

I tried scrapping it out with a heat gun, using chemicals.....you name it. But it came down to the grinder with the wire wheel being the best.

G-luck.

 

[Fantom]

Crap, I was hoping for something nicer. The PO had some "body work" done to the truck and the dumb-as& at the body shop used what looks like actual tar in some areas. It's not rubberized but hard and it does not come off easy and of course it is on top of rust. Some times I just hate people.

 

[friel01]

blasting

I was able to blast mine off. It takes a LOT longer than uncoated areas, and even longer than heavinly rusted areas. Uses a lot of sand too. It helps if you can breach it at all, like scratch it up with a wire wheel first, so the media can get to the paint underneath, then you are really blasting away the paint underneath and taking whats on top with it, so you have to erode from the edges.

Its miserable work, and I did a lot of swearing at the PO who put it there, and the company that makes the stuff, and the dinasours that turned into this horible petrolium product..... but truth is, if it werent there, there probabyl would not have been much left of the 40 yr old steel to work with, so it is also a blessing.

Good luck!!!

 

[brownbear]

LOL...

yah you end up wearing tar when doing this. The factory sound deadening is white in colour and strips not too bad. I had both asphalt undercoating(tar) and the factory crap. It was pretty disgusting stripping the wheels wells, and you wear much of it.

 

[thecrazygreek]

This is where a good oxy acetelyne torch comes in handy. Put a nice feathery flame on it and use a paint scraper. Comes right off, easy as can be...

Just dont overheat the metal, and everything should go ok...

 

[webelk6]

Apply a marine stripper, let stand. Powerwash off. You can also use a powerwasher with a chemical injector. Marine stripper is foolproof.

 

[brownbear]

any links to marine stripper...?? Is it just paint stripper?

 

[Fantom]

Well I have all the goodies with the exception of the stripper - those are always fun but cost too much in the long run - sorry, sidetracked.
Got a name of a good one?
Thanks webelk6

 

[webelk6]

marine stripper

sorry guys, got side tracked me self. I am still looking for a link, howevr, thishttp://www.ecowise.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_97_34_114&products_id=533

Try this first, but I don't like the price. Google marine strip paint paint remover. The stuff I am trying to source is an oil based product, but this sounds better.

 

[toddslater]

Environmentally friendly paint strippers ...well...just plain suck ass. The real deal are the methylene chloride based strippers (such as Talstrip) and even they will suck at heavy tar. Unfortunately, what BBear did is about the best option.....sorry to say. Unless you can torch the living piss out of it.

 

[webelk6]

Hence the latter part of my post. I have used "marine strip" in a blue can. Kinda pasty, and nasty. It will remove ANYTHING including the hair of your leg on that toilet

 

[toddslater]

webelk....what the hell is in it then ??? Do you think it could remove the hair from the palm of my hand ...now thats embarassing.

 

[Bad Coco]

Check out my build up thread, we got it figured out. Take a propane or mapp gas torch to the inside of the cab side. Then scrape the underside with a scraper. It really helps to have 2 people. If you try to heat the tar side, its just a stinky gooey mess! Don't leave the heat in one spot to long or it will get gooey also, not to mention could distort the metal. I think it took us about an hour, 2 tops to get it all. The small amount that remains, comes right off with some solvent. Way to easy. I wish I had tried it with my first body. Good luck, and beer still helps. Eric

 

[Fantom]

thanks guys, once I have a bit of time I will try it out, hopefully before December.

 

[webelk6]

webelk....what the hell is in it then ??? Do you think it could remove the hair from the palm of my hand ...now thats embarassing.

I am working on it. I do think however, it may take a flat scraper tool vs. a powerwasher. Unless using the environmentally safe stuff. Meanwhile, slater, I will answer and put up all of the links soon. I want to make sure I find the right one. I always say work smarter, not harder. I want to help the original questioner not blow torch etc. Lets find a system that anyone can do.

 

[webelk6]

webelk....what the hell is in it then ??? Do you think it could remove the hair from the palm of my hand ...now thats embarassing.

all right , did some checking with my paint rep. a contractor did a stripper job(paint stripper) removing layer upon layer in a parking structure. The name of the schtuff is mulit strip, and after checking the oil based, I would go with this, and yes guys , here is the link

http://www.ibacktonature.com/Pages/multistrip-PD.html

ya, ya, slater, seems to me this does work even tho it is not toxic as you wish.

 

[toddslater]

Sorry I can't resist...when I search high and low for an MSDS on that site...the best technical information that was there was this:

"For the past 11 years, Back to Nature has been a manufacturer of truly unique, safer paint and varnish removers, lead paint abatement products, and exceptional cleaning products. Our products are environmentally safe and contain no methylene chloride (a suspected carcinogen) or other harsh flammable, highly toxic solvents. All our products are biodegradable, non-flammable, non-combustible, virtually odorless and easily cleaned up with water. All our paint and varnish removers are patent pending.

We currently have four divisions within Dynacraft/Back To Nature – 1) Retail Division with products for the Homeowner and Professional, 2) Lead Paint Abatement Division with products for the Certified Lead Paint Abatement Contractor, 3) Marine Division, 3) Furniture Refinishing division.

We occupy a 25,000 square feet building in Englishtown, NJ. which comprises our corporate offices and manufacturing facility. Our dedicated staff includes management, sales, administration, customer service, and factory and warehouse personnel. We also have technical sales representatives throughout the country who are available to demonstrate our product on site or provide product knowledge."

Well I'm underimpressed. I'm thinkin they are just pumping water from the underlying aquifer, aptly name the Englishtown Formation...bottling it and slapping a happy green pride label on it...sort of like Perrier and benzene or Ben and Jerry's and dioxin. Methlylene chloride...yet another of the many many "suspected carcinogens"...

I'd really like to know what they are pushing...but apparently it's so green it's a complete secret.

But wait there is something of real importance going on right now...some TV channel is playing 50 first dates and there are some fine pig shots in there

 

[webelk6]

c'mon todd, have some faith. I could find a more "toxic" solution if you like. I know that this stuff is made out of corn. The reason cathodic systems had to use it was because a jerk liberal said the "other" system was making him sick.

The parking structure I speak of is in Madison, WI., a very liberal city . So my paint guy had to come up with a solution . And this was it.

As with ANY paint stripper, time , and temp is critical. But to appease you toddslater, by george I will find a very toxic alternative.

 

[webelk6]

Sorry I can't resist...when I search high and low for an MSDS on that site...the best technical information that was there was this:

"For the past 11 years, Back to Nature has been a manufacturer of truly unique, safer paint and varnish removers, lead paint abatement products, and exceptional cleaning products. Our products are environmentally safe and contain no methylene chloride (a suspected carcinogen) or other harsh flammable, highly toxic solvents. All our products are biodegradable, non-flammable, non-combustible, virtually odorless and easily cleaned up with water. All our paint and varnish removers are patent pending.

We currently have four divisions within Dynacraft/Back To Nature – 1) Retail Division with products for the Homeowner and Professional, 2) Lead Paint Abatement Division with products for the Certified Lead Paint Abatement Contractor, 3) Marine Division, 3) Furniture Refinishing division.

We occupy a 25,000 square feet building in Englishtown, NJ. which comprises our corporate offices and manufacturing facility. Our dedicated staff includes management, sales, administration, customer service, and factory and warehouse personnel. We also have technical sales representatives throughout the country who are available to demonstrate our product on site or provide product knowledge."

Well I'm underimpressed. I'm thinkin they are just pumping water from the underlying aquifer, aptly name the Englishtown Formation...bottling it and slapping a happy green pride label on it...sort of like Perrier and benzene or Ben and Jerry's and dioxin. Methlylene chloride...yet another of the many many "suspected carcinogens"...

I'd really like to know what they are pushing...but apparently it's so green it's a complete secret.

But wait there is something of real importance going on right now...some TV channel is playing 50 first dates and there are some fine pig shots in there

ya , also found aircraft stripper. and here is a start for you slater.

http://www.m-tc.com/paint_stripper/aircraft_paint_stripper.htm

I don't have time to find links for non-believers, but I do know this. Any powerwashing of strippers can deem them non working, so I stand corrected toddslater.