I haven't done one of these but have done the pan on other vehicles, and one challenge will be the constant drip of oil along the sides from above fouling your mating surface before you get the pan bolted back on.
One thing I've done in the past is drain the oil a day or two before I do the work to get most of that dripping down into the lower pan out of the way. This usually buys you a lot more time between drips running across that nice clean surface the FIPG is supposed to stick to.
I installed a Fumoto valve on my wife's Highlander and concluded I would not accept that loss of clearance on my 80 Series. It was and additional 3/4-1" of low hanging metal, and I installed the premium valve which rotates and allows you to sit it sideways. I off road my 80 Series, sometimes on moderately aggressive trails. That's just my two cents, I'm leaving the Fumoto on the Highlander. I like the product, just not the reduction in clearance.
Yeah, with the angle of the drain plug on the 200, it really doesn't stick down much below the bottom of the pan at all, if any. And it will live behind the splash guard until I get a real skid plate. The area is well protected by crossmembers fore and aft, it would take a very precisely placed pointy rock to hit this spot.
Funny thing, that angle. Even after letting it drain all night, there was still a good amount of oil in the old pan when it came off. Seems like the 200 is only capable of a 95% oil change unless you jack up the driver's side, which I think I will start doing.
If it makes you feel better go for it, but that amount of oil is inconsequential. There is no shortage of excellent used oil analysis on these engines without taking that step.
I would even argue that as low as the odds of snapping the fumoto off are, they are still higher than that remaining oil causing damage over the life of the engine.