Strange Power steering problem (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 1, 2018
Threads
2
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17
Location
SWEDEN, SKÅNE, SJÖBO
Hello,

I have a 2001 100 1HD-FTE with a strange problem with the power steering.
Link to video:

Standing still, on flat surface, - if i turn the steering wheel one way and hold it there with one finger - the steering wheel will start to move by itself like in the video.
And, while driving, - in a roundabout or long and sharp turn, holding the steering wheel in one position - it feels like wheels (or something else) is moving.

More info,
- Steering rack is new. But could be faulty. Shortly after installing and driving a bit (maybe 5000km/3106miles) the big nut that sets the load on the shaft, inertia(?) was loose. I could tighen it with my fingers. I did not touch this nut while installing.
- The steering stop bolts (limiters) has been off for a while since i forgot to tighten them while putting new lower controlarms. Maybe far fetched that they have anything to do with it.
Front axels didn't like it for sure.
- The ATF fluid is greyish. Maybe cooked?
- Cap to the fluid container is new.
- If i jack up the front, and turn the wheels all the way one way, i can move the steering rack rod up and down a bit. Normal?
steering rack rod.jpg

- Rack is not Toyota original. Didnt have time for repairing the old one, and money for new oem one before a trip. (They are from what i've seen in the US, 3 times the price in EU)..
- Inner and outer Tie rod ends are in perfect condition.
- The steering is extremly light. I lightly tightened the load nut once, felt better for a while and then got back to extremely light steering again)
- The input shaft into steering rack feels very loose. (Red arrow) Lots of play when i move the steering wheel shaft. Probably 1cm/0,39inches of play in both directions.
I dont feel it that much while driving thought. Much better than old rack thought.
steering rack.jpg

- No visible leaks, no bubbeling in the reservoir while turning.

Grateful for any ideas how to solve this,
 
100 series use AT fluid, which is red. Grayish fluid, would indicate, not properly flush with new R&P.
Pinion preload not set. It takes specialize tools to set pinion preload. I'd not except a R&R with loosen pinion nut.

I only use OEM. Unless someone bring aftermarket rack, which I'd not warranty parts or labor in that event. Buy cheap get cheap. You can buy R&P from anywhere in the world and pay shipping.

Either buy new OEM or have you old rebuilt.
 
Last edited:
Wonder if the play in the input shaft is enough to cause fluid pressure to bypass into return causing rack to cycle..?
Might have a look at the FSM to see what the preload/torque value is supposed to be on the input assembly...
 
100 series use AT fluid, which is red. Grayish fluid, would indicate, not properly flush with new R&P.
Pinion preload not set. It takes specialize tools to set pinion preload. I'd not except a R&R with loosen pinion nut.

I only use OEM. Unless someone bring aftermarket rack, which I'd not warranty parts or labor in that event. Buy cheap get cheap. You can buy R&P from anywhere in the world and pay shipping.

Either buy new OEM or have you old rebuilt.
Thanks for the input. I'll check with local toyota dealer if they have the tools to set preload.
They fluid turned grey quite fast. All system was drained when changing the rack, not really flushed thought. I'll do that,
 
Wonder if the play in the input shaft is enough to cause fluid pressure to bypass into return causing rack to cycle..?
Might have a look at the FSM to see what the preload/torque value is supposed to be on the input assembly...
That is very interesting, becouse thats exactly how it feels. Something with "power" is working "against" the steering input.
I'll start by checking pre-load and doing a flush.

Rebuild kit for old but OEM rack is ordered,
 

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