Received the stockinteriors.com carpet set. I will try to get it installed this weekend and post pics of the install. Initial impression is very good. I didn't realize the the kit includes the tailgate carpet but it looks like it does.
Stockinteriors.com FJ80 Carpet Set
- Thread starter Poo Poo Jones
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Looks sweet. Looks like there is no cutout for the rear heater. What kind of backing is there? Did you just order the basic set?
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- #3
Schwaz80 said:
No cut outs at all. Using the old carpet as a temple, cutting the new one should not be too bad.
I got the mass back carpet since I was debating doing the sound/heat proofing thing that I saw a few other do. I may still dynamat the doors.
Nice!! very interested in the quality comparison. great price for all that is included!!
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Do the edges at the door jams have the plastic "tracks" for the wire harnesses to pass through?
I need this cant wait for the install
I wonder if they sell just the cargo space carpet? Mine got melted by battery acid :/
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
If you decide to go the sound deadener route, I recommend BeQuiet .. Works REALLY good and cost a lot less. I've used this in all my vehicles and customer vehicles also.
- Thread starter
- #9
No. I pulled mine from the old carpet and will add them to the new tomorrow. Same with the plastic trim on the rear cargo carpet. I had to swap out my old one.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
10-4, that is what I figured would have to be done. Thanks
wow and awesome pricing! thanks for the heads up.
http://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpet.asp?Itemid=21802&MakeId=37&ModelId=709
it looks like you chose grey. which shade?
http://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpet.asp?Itemid=21802&MakeId=37&ModelId=709
it looks like you chose grey. which shade?
- Thread starter
- #12
Install is done. Overall it was not too bad. I took it really slow, just because I had never seen an FJ80 carpet "How Too". So, I spent a couple of days (probably 10-12 hours total) on the install. If I were going to do it again, I bet it would take half the time.
If you look online or on stockinteriors.com there are great videos about installing carpet. I'll try not to rehash too much general info from there. The biggest tip from those sites is to use the old carpet and chalk to trace cut lines on the new carpet. I had a hard time trusting that because I didn't want to make any bad cuts. So, I left a ton of space between my chalk lines and where I cut. In retrospect, you can just cut along your chalk lines. The biggest piece of advice that I have is to get some kind of hot knife. I used a plug-in electric soldering iron with a "knife-like" tip. It's great for making cutouts for seat holes as well as cutouts that you can see (like the cargo hooks and seat mounts). You can't make precise cuts with the mass back without it. Also, I don't think that you can cut the carpet pad with anything but a hot knife (or soldering iron),
I started with the wheel wells and rear cargo area because it seemed easiest. The wheel wells are pretty straight forward. Just be careful that when you are using the old carpet as a cutting template for the new, that you don't get glue on the new carpet. I did and it left a pretty good glue stain.
The cargo area carpet does not need to be cut. The only modification that you need to do is to attach the plastic end piece. You just need to cut the stitching on the old carpet, slide it off and then slide it onto the new carpet. I used a few rivets to keep the plastic attached to the carpet. I'll probably go back and replace the rivets with 1/4" staples. The carpet pad is also precut (and asymmetric). The cargo area carpet is not molded. So, where the stock carpet has the four molded areas for the folding seat mounts. This part of the carpet is all flat. Not a big deal but there is a difference.
For the tailgate, it's also pretty straight forward. You just need to pull the old staples and attach it with new. I used Heavy Duty 1/4" Staples. They did not seem to poke through to the front. But they were close. The stock tailgate seems to use light duty 1/4" staples. I used a 3M (74) spray adhesive to tack the carpet to the board. This is the only adhesive the I used during the entire install.
On to the front section. This definitely gave me a lot of pause. Again, In retrospect, I could have just used the old carpet as a template and followed the chalk line. It would have saved a lot of time. The way I did it was to make a chalk line but to cut just a little each time so that I was extra sure that everything was lining up. I also used some of the seat mounting hardware to hold the carpet in place while I rough cut some of the center console and heater areas. The key cuts on this are the heater, the center console and the firewall. You will also need to trim up the excess along the side edges before you rough cut those areas. Don't trim everything from the edges yet but you will need to trim most of it so that the carpet fits into the floor pan. Maybe leave 2" on the edges. The carpet comes with 4"-6" extra along each side, the back and the firewall. The other key cut is the slice that goes inside the center console mount. You'll recognize it from removing your old carpet. Getting this cut right stretches the carpet so that it stays within the mold of the floor pan.
As far as carpet pad goes, for the front area, you get a big piece of sheet cut carpet pad. I used the old carpet as the pad template an made rough cuts from the larger carpet pad. This is where the hot knife is money. You can't do these with a blade. For installing them, I actually slid them under the carpet after it was installed so that the fit was better. I did one section at a time moving from back (middle row) to front (firewall), as I got the carpet set to where I wanted it.
Once you get the carpet installed, it's just a matter of reinstalling the trim and seats. Cut sizable holes for the seat mounts. You won't see them once the seats are installed so don't be shy. The mass back makes everything off by just a little. So you may need to force some of the trim a little. Same goes for the seats.
Overall, I couldn't be happier with this project. I started with just a seat leather replacement project but once I saw how dirty the carpet was, I couldn't put new seats in there. For $460 (w/ shipping and mass back) you really can beat this. It's a lot of work but the result is amazing. I definitely notice the difference with the mass back option. Here are the pics.
If you look online or on stockinteriors.com there are great videos about installing carpet. I'll try not to rehash too much general info from there. The biggest tip from those sites is to use the old carpet and chalk to trace cut lines on the new carpet. I had a hard time trusting that because I didn't want to make any bad cuts. So, I left a ton of space between my chalk lines and where I cut. In retrospect, you can just cut along your chalk lines. The biggest piece of advice that I have is to get some kind of hot knife. I used a plug-in electric soldering iron with a "knife-like" tip. It's great for making cutouts for seat holes as well as cutouts that you can see (like the cargo hooks and seat mounts). You can't make precise cuts with the mass back without it. Also, I don't think that you can cut the carpet pad with anything but a hot knife (or soldering iron),
I started with the wheel wells and rear cargo area because it seemed easiest. The wheel wells are pretty straight forward. Just be careful that when you are using the old carpet as a cutting template for the new, that you don't get glue on the new carpet. I did and it left a pretty good glue stain.
The cargo area carpet does not need to be cut. The only modification that you need to do is to attach the plastic end piece. You just need to cut the stitching on the old carpet, slide it off and then slide it onto the new carpet. I used a few rivets to keep the plastic attached to the carpet. I'll probably go back and replace the rivets with 1/4" staples. The carpet pad is also precut (and asymmetric). The cargo area carpet is not molded. So, where the stock carpet has the four molded areas for the folding seat mounts. This part of the carpet is all flat. Not a big deal but there is a difference.
For the tailgate, it's also pretty straight forward. You just need to pull the old staples and attach it with new. I used Heavy Duty 1/4" Staples. They did not seem to poke through to the front. But they were close. The stock tailgate seems to use light duty 1/4" staples. I used a 3M (74) spray adhesive to tack the carpet to the board. This is the only adhesive the I used during the entire install.
On to the front section. This definitely gave me a lot of pause. Again, In retrospect, I could have just used the old carpet as a template and followed the chalk line. It would have saved a lot of time. The way I did it was to make a chalk line but to cut just a little each time so that I was extra sure that everything was lining up. I also used some of the seat mounting hardware to hold the carpet in place while I rough cut some of the center console and heater areas. The key cuts on this are the heater, the center console and the firewall. You will also need to trim up the excess along the side edges before you rough cut those areas. Don't trim everything from the edges yet but you will need to trim most of it so that the carpet fits into the floor pan. Maybe leave 2" on the edges. The carpet comes with 4"-6" extra along each side, the back and the firewall. The other key cut is the slice that goes inside the center console mount. You'll recognize it from removing your old carpet. Getting this cut right stretches the carpet so that it stays within the mold of the floor pan.
As far as carpet pad goes, for the front area, you get a big piece of sheet cut carpet pad. I used the old carpet as the pad template an made rough cuts from the larger carpet pad. This is where the hot knife is money. You can't do these with a blade. For installing them, I actually slid them under the carpet after it was installed so that the fit was better. I did one section at a time moving from back (middle row) to front (firewall), as I got the carpet set to where I wanted it.
Once you get the carpet installed, it's just a matter of reinstalling the trim and seats. Cut sizable holes for the seat mounts. You won't see them once the seats are installed so don't be shy. The mass back makes everything off by just a little. So you may need to force some of the trim a little. Same goes for the seats.
Overall, I couldn't be happier with this project. I started with just a seat leather replacement project but once I saw how dirty the carpet was, I couldn't put new seats in there. For $460 (w/ shipping and mass back) you really can beat this. It's a lot of work but the result is amazing. I definitely notice the difference with the mass back option. Here are the pics.
- Thread starter
- #13
more pics
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- #14
more install pics
- Thread starter
- #15
even more install pics
- Thread starter
- #16
Final install pics
- Thread starter
- #17
last install pics
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Wow dude!
How is the carpet feel vs the OEM? I've been looking for an actual upgrade and not just replacement.
How is the carpet feel vs the OEM? I've been looking for an actual upgrade and not just replacement.
Very nice. What kind of stapler did you use?
