Stock Temp Sensor/Gauge (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 29, 2002
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Port of Indecision...otherwise Northern Arizona
I believe this was somewhat covered on the SOR site, but how sensitive is the stock temperature gauge? What does it take for the stock guage to show overheating?

Last weekend I was fully loaded, 4 people, full roofrack and gear, with a headwind, and was sure I'd be generating more heat, but the gauge stayed right in the middle, where it always is.

I'd like to think my cooling system is just incredibly efficient and in excellent condition, but that might be wishful thinking...

-H-
 
Hltopper,

I don't have an answer for you, but I too have to wonder if it is just a dummy gauge? I have never seen mine climb above the middle and I have been pulling my 7000lb boat in 90+ degrees with no temp increase? &nbsp:Does seem strange. I do have a temp sensor under the hood just to see how hot it is getting under there and while pulling the boat that day she was up to 194 degrees under the hood.

Yomama
 
there is an assertion that the OEM gauge has a "dead spot" or maybe is not linear. It may have been MTS that hinted at some way to "tune it up" to make it more realistic.

I think it's dampened in some fashion to keep people from freaking out, but it may be too "drugged" to tell the truth. :dunno:
 
According to Robbie or Christo at Slee way back when, it doesn't move until you get somewhere in the low 200's (IIRC 210 I think) so it is possible to run consistently hot without knowing it, which is one of the reasons 80's are vulnerable to h/g problems.

C-Dan, let's assume for a moment this feature is to stop north american Lexus owners from panicking when they tow stuff or are on the highway. I wonder if Toyota would think this was more need to know info in places like the middle east.
Is there maybe a different p/n overseas for the guage?

Otherwise, only solution is to add an aftermarket guage. Meanwhile, watch your fluids like a hawk.
 
semlin,

>> which is one of the reasons 80's are vulnerable <<
>> to h/g problems. <<

Do you gain some perverse pleasure from giving me anxiety attacks?

-B-
 
wulfman, with that avatar I didn't think you needed any help... :eek: all I can say is my recent experience with the truck has made me even more risk averse than usual.

now if you get yourself a decent 3 core radiator I'm sure you'll sleep easier.
 
16400-66040 :G radiator
+
11115-66031 :D head gasket

= happy Wulf ::)
 
And dogs with full tummies... :G
-B-
 
Temp Gauge mistrust (and an upcoming trip to Vegas & the Grand Canyon) led me to install an engine oil cooler. If I can get some spare time and figure out how to post pictures, I will. BigMac
 
BigMac,
Can you give some details about the installation even without the pictures like did you use the oil filter location to send the oil to the cooler? What brand and size cooler? With fan or not? Where did you locate the cooler? Do you have it so it is pulled in at a certain temp? I know you mentioned this before as a way to reduce engine temps and I would like to try it. Reply to: Desperate at Ih8mud.com. Thanks!
Bill
 
Photoman:
I used a "Self Regulating Oil Cooler Kit" from Ford Racing - on sale for $115 - same oil filter footprint & threads as ours. Turns out it uses an M7B Tru-Cool cooler (8x11x1.5") made by Long (Canada) and available elsewhere, too. Mounted it on the PS in front of the radiator, as a mirror of the transmission cooler installation. I had to make 3 aluminum arms to hang it on - fourth corner went directly to an unused bracket. A sandwich plate with 3/8" NPT female threads goes between the block and filter. The kit came with crappy brass hose barbs & clamps; I substituted AN -10 push-on fittings. I also had to buy an additional 4 or 5 ' of hose. Routing was easy, straight down from the sandwich plate, forward under the pan, through the holes in the front cross member, then straight up to the cooler. I put 90 deg hose ends on the cooler, with its fittings at the 3 o'clock position (facing the grill). Probably increased total oil capacity by about one quart. No fan on the cooler. The "Self-Regulating" feature provides a crude (or elegantly simple, depending on your viewpoint) thermostat function. The top two layers in the cooler are larger, and thus an easier path for thicker, cooler oil - that's their story. I would have preferred to use a remote oil filter mount and take the oil hoses straight off the block - one less 90 bend, but I couldn't find a good location to mount one. I may get around to plumbing in a 2QT Accusump if I can mount one above the brake booster, but I don't have time now. Hope this helps. BigMac
 
Actually on the beach today I noticed something for the first time. After driving a few miles in soft sand along the beach my wife "spotted a sea shell". When I stopped to let her investigate I realized that the rpm's were a little high. Checked that the AC wasn't on and as I sat there waiting the rpm's slowly started to drop back to normal. Now a few years back in Death valley the AC dropped out on it's own which I later found out it was due to the increased temp of the engine. Does anyone know if this rpm increase could also be something along the same lines as to increase circulation when the temp rises. Any of you guys with the SC seen this?
 
Rick,

I have not noticed that with mine. I have seen the idle "hunt" in some cases. With my throttle body relocated, my idle does not stabilize as rapidly as it did before it got moved so far away from the intake.
I have also seen a few throttle cables on High mileage vehicles "hang up" in the casing somewhat. You might check your cable to see if it returns to idle smoothly. I have replaced my throttle cable.

Dan,
 
BigMac,
Thanks a ton.

Rick,
I have not seen that problem either with the SC.
Bill
 

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