STLCA 60 Series Club Thread (8 Viewers)

[Elbert]

yeah..you see it... the heater core project is not complete either..... That takes two big kicks in the @%% to get me motivated to finish that..but its next on the list.

Disregard the custom wiring on the floor thats a crap job I did on the radios install and stuff.

I'm going to bring in a multi-fuse panel and clean all that up....once I get a few of the other bigger physical projects done. I'll get the FM radio fixed along with the ham and cb and no the power seats. Probably put a fuse box inside or under the console or something. I've been looking at blue sea stuff and I found some nice fuse setups that one guy does for ham stuff...but would easily function for what I need and its very clean too.

 

[jynx]

Curious if any of you 60 guys might have any ideas on what an h42 4spd might cost? Not necessarily looking to buy atm, but doing some research. After following around some of the big boys around at GSMTR, and taking into consideration some of the recent conversations that have occurred between me and the Mrs lately, I am putting together in my brain a possible idea for a wheeler.

FJ80+H42+crawl box+split case, caged, low lift and trimmed to clear 37's or 39's...

I know I have no business even pondering this, but I am so if you know what an h42 should run me, I'd appreciate the info.

Thanks

 

[Elbert]

not much $$ on the manual 4 speed...does it mate to the engine in the 80? I seem to recall people just about giving them away and you probably could get one off the classified area or salvage yard fairly cheap.

 

[sk8salomon]

Nice Elbert! For sure something I will put on my list.

As far as price for 4-spd I've seen them go for $200-300 range. Ridge says they're pretty much "bomb proof" lol

Edit, that price must be w tcase included. Elbert is right, just 4spd I think is cheap/free

 

[jynx]

H42 will bolt up with the right bellhousing to the early 3FE trucks, and for what an h55 costs I can pretty much put the entire drive train together and maybe even have enough left over for some used tires.

 

[FJ60Cam]

You should be able to get one for cheap.

When I converted to the H55, I couldn't even give away the four speed. I cut the input shaft off and used it for a clutch alignment tool, harvested whatever else I could and scrapped the rest.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Those seats are sweet Elbert!

 

[Elbert]

Yep

fix that oil plug and "get-r" back on the road.... easy for me to say

 

[htburnett]

I have one Mathew. Love me some miller lite.

 

[jynx]

I have one Mathew. Love me some miller lite.

I think we can work something out

Any idea what it is from? Would like to get a 85-90 model with the 38mm shaft.

 

[Elbert]

more pics showing the jumper pigtail cut from the BMW car...if anyone else wants to jump off into the bmw seat biz.

two wires are brown...(grounds) two wires are orange (power fed those). The big yellow connector is where the factor harness connects to the seats. I got the part I"m holding to use as my own pigtails from the salvage yard...cut from the body harness of the donor car. Yellow connector is a little bit of a pain to connect and disconnect at times....I don't plan on taking it apart again. Pretty smooth process. The torfab brackets are a bolt-in solution.

 

[DSLTOY]

I think we can work something out

Any idea what it is from? Would like to get a 85-90 model with the 38mm shaft.

I have the one we took out of Andys 60 when we put in the 5 speed. Needs a rebuild.

 

[htburnett]

Yeah its a 75. I think the first year they started the 4 speed.

 

[bluehawk]

looking for a 3rd member housing for an 84 Fj60. Anyone got one they could part with?

 

[Elbert]

ok...here is an unusual issue. Went out to truck yesterday to start it and see what's going on. Key on....when I engage key to start I get a few clicks...and then alt gauge goes from pos to far left in the neg zone. Starter does not engage. So I had a spare starter..swapped that out..same issue. I have 12.6 at each battery and 12.4 at the main cable that feeds the starter at the starter. Fuseable link is good and no other issues that I know of. No smoke no nothing...I need to go check the fuses but have no reason to suspect that the fuses are the issue. Gonna look for any loose wires or something. This is a GM v8 and I know its it has to see ign on to start and I hear the fuel pump cycle when key on. Not sure if I have a safety wire on the oil pressure switch or not...I"ll have to look. Far as I know...nothing on the wiring has changed or come loose (i'll have to look). Can't jump start either. All the wires are tight at the starter and properly connected. It has two wires off the engine harness that get there power off the starter and the main starter battery cable and then a small wire that connects to the starter too (all connected).

Weird in the way the starter clicks...and then the alt gauge needle moves from the pos zone around 12 volts or so...all the way to the far left area on the gauge...(like you have when you have a direct short to ground) but that does not make sense to me. I'm going to see if one of my battery cables that connects the batteries is rubbing metal but I'm wondering what else to look at given this.. Just a week or two ago the truck started and ran fine. I've never connected the neutral safety wire...so truck will start in gear and its been that way ever since the engine swap.

Will look to see if I have any obvious loose connections or something....weird on the Alt gauge...they way its acting.

 

[Elbert]

well...I'm going to take the well proven shotgun approach....when in doubt...swap parts. Since I can't load test the batteries I'm going to just swap them out and go from there...as they are around 4 years old at this point. In my old job many years ago...I've seen many car/truck batteries pass a simple voltage test and fail to start and also fail load test... defective battery. So I'll use the semi-educated guess method...seems like batteries are a little more costly now-days but I guess that's the game we play.

** Edit..

Ok I put the good spare starter back on after getting it tested, since the first time around I had the same initial no start condition. About that time I noticed the battery cables were old...in fact very old..probably OEM. So those came off. I had NAPA make up some HD cables and put the starter back on and new battery cable...truck started right off...I nearly fell out. I thought I was going to have to dig into the steering column. Good lesson on paying attention to the lifespan of the battery cables, no obvious defects externally. Back in business engine starts and charges probably better than it ever has. I had a another short neg cable made up too....to run from the neg post over to the body...rather than trying to duplicate the OEM negative cable which has that weird connector that grounds at the truck fender.

 

[pillguy]

so do those BMW seats fit my 4runner?

 

[Elbert]

I would assume they might....depending on the year....but the whole thing is the making the adapter bracket that allows your seat rails to simply bolt in.... far as I know torfab only making these brackets for the 60's.

I assumed you were asking about the adapter brackets...I don't know if 4 runner seats are a bolt in solution.

 

[sk8salomon]

What's up guys! Finally got my head back on (pun intended) & getting the 60 Rollin again. Still have some last minute fixing but hopefully get to turn the key soon. Adjusted valves tonight, put cover back on & now waiting for new intake bolts. Stay tuned, hope the SOB runs!

 

[Elbert]

go forest go.... I know its been a pain...hope everything turns out.. I'm actually going to hit the heater core project this weekend on mine and some other stuff.