Nice Sean, she looks pretty sexy just sitting there, be even better to be back in the seat. I have some serious wrenching to do this winter to get Bruce ready for next spring.
STLCA 60 Series Club Thread
- Thread starter Elbert
- Start date
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Thanks Matthew, finally got her buttoned up this afternoon. Good news is that it starts, bad news is it won't idle. I have to feather the gas pedal to keep it running. Next I'll check timing...ugh. 
Compression numbers from tonight.
115, 108, 114, 119, 115, 120
How does this look?
115, 108, 114, 119, 115, 120
How does this look?
Is the fuel cut solenoid getting power? Mine came unhooked and it would run at speed, but it wouldn't idle.
The engine looks good, hope you get it figured out.
The engine looks good, hope you get it figured out.
Do you mean the solenoid on the carb or the fuel cut vacuum switch on the passenger fender? I know i have the carb solenoid switch hooked up correctly because i can hear it click on/off when i hit the key. At some point, I was told to just cap off the vacuum port on the fuel cut vacuum switch (i think Trollhole told me to) but now i'm wondering if i need to apply vacuum to this? My new TH carb doesn't have a FCVS port on it so i wasn't sure what to do with it. i'll try and post up a pic, it might be a 60 only part that came with all that nice BS emissions crap.
FCVS
Never seen the FCVS before.
It could be a massive vacuum leak too. Good luck.
It could be a massive vacuum leak too. Good luck.
Guys,
I'm officially giving up. This is beyond what I am capable of at the moment & honestly I'm completely burned out. I need somebody that knows a desmogged 2F with TH carb. I've confirmed the following.
-compression ok
-spark ok
-fuel ok
-timing been adjusted
-valves adjusted
I'm willing to deliver my truck and pay the person to fix it. Thx
I'm officially giving up. This is beyond what I am capable of at the moment & honestly I'm completely burned out. I need somebody that knows a desmogged 2F with TH carb. I've confirmed the following.
-compression ok
-spark ok
-fuel ok
-timing been adjusted
-valves adjusted
I'm willing to deliver my truck and pay the person to fix it. Thx
My decel fuel cut thing on the fender was removed when ULC/ACC did my desmog. It idled fine, but cut the idle circuit off above 1800 rpms. The fix (since I didn't have the part) was to ground the wire going to the decel solenoid thingy. It might not hurt to try that.
- Thread starter
- #210
$hit can really be aggravating.... I've been there. Sometimes you got to give it a few days. I carted my junk over to ACC one time, on one of my challenges. I don't know if you guys have anyone in the local area that's a 2f wizard...a lot of idle issues are vacuum related. Good luck I know screwing around with different carbs...and de-smog can be a royal pain. I love the de-smog but its a challenge to get it right.
i talked to Marshall last night on the phone for a while. i walked him thru what i've done and we may have found something. When i setup the valves, the book says to find a temporary BTDC which is a white paint mark on my flywheel. Marshall says this is the "bb" that somebody may have put a paint dot on. He said if i slowly keep rotating the crank, i will see a hair line just past the bb which is TDC. I adjusted the valves per the "bb" and not TDC but the book says to do it this way. I figured this temporary position was enough to at least get it running and then the final adjustment would be with the dizzy rotation to get it set. I'll let you know what i find out but i have to pop the valve cover off and start over with adjusting. PITA to do this process with one person! I'll see if a neighbor can turn the crank while i watch. stay tuned.
I'll see if a neighbor can turn the crank while i watch. stay tuned.
The bb and line are only 7 degrees apart. That shouldn't make an impact on the valves if you are just adjusting them. They would only rotate 3.5 degrees. I think your adjustment should be close enough to idle. However, if you want to rotate the engine by yourself, putting it in 4th gear and pushing it works for me.i talked to Marshall last night on the phone for a while. i walked him thru what i've done and we may have found something. When i setup the valves, the book says to find a temporary BTDC which is a white paint mark on my flywheel. Marshall says this is the "bb" that somebody may have put a paint dot on. He said if i slowly keep rotating the crank, i will see a hair line just past the bb which is TDC. I adjusted the valves per the "bb" and not TDC but the book says to do it this way. I figured this temporary position was enough to at least get it running and then the final adjustment would be with the dizzy rotation to get it set. I'll let you know what i find out but i have to pop the valve cover off and start over with adjusting. PITA to do this process with one person!
Without being there I still think it could be a vacuum leak. Will it idle with the choke on?
Go down and get you a hand held remote start switch from your local parts store .
Sounds to me too like it has a vacuum leak . Can you adjust the idle screw in to put it at a fast idle ? If you can do that then slowly back the screw out until the point where it wants to die . Take a can of brake cleaner and spray around intake where it bolts to the head and any others vacuum ports you have . if the idle increases in speed you have found the vacuum leak . The main thing is to get the idle down as low as possible if not it's hard to tell if it increases idle speed . You can do it and when you find the problem you'll say dam why didn't I check that first . Never fails . I'll be at AOP this Saturday if you can get it there I'll be glad to take a look . A friend of mine will be with me whose is very good with fueling problems .
Sounds to me too like it has a vacuum leak . Can you adjust the idle screw in to put it at a fast idle ? If you can do that then slowly back the screw out until the point where it wants to die . Take a can of brake cleaner and spray around intake where it bolts to the head and any others vacuum ports you have . if the idle increases in speed you have found the vacuum leak . The main thing is to get the idle down as low as possible if not it's hard to tell if it increases idle speed . You can do it and when you find the problem you'll say dam why didn't I check that first . Never fails . I'll be at AOP this Saturday if you can get it there I'll be glad to take a look . A friend of mine will be with me whose is very good with fueling problems .
Thanks Rocky, Kevin, Elbert & Cam for the advice.
I'm rechecking valves...
I call this MFTDC!!!
I'm rechecking valves...
I call this MFTDC!!!
Rechecked valves, like Kevin said not much difference between 7-deg BTDC & TDC. Basically confirmed my valve adjustment was done correctly.
Found a couple problems, vacuum leaks around the carb insulator block & pipe was loose. Anybody know where I can buy a new one?
- Thread starter
- #218
Yes PM Beno on the board ....and you might check out the classified area here on the board too. I don't know if the parts is still available through Yota or not, Beno would know for sure and can get it for you.
Still available from Toyota. Not the cheapest thing but lasts for eons.
Update: made a couple gaskets out of cork just to test. Good news is it idles now. While I was adjusting the dizzy, I noticed bubbling between the head & block, cyls 1,3,6. Stuck my finger on it & it's fresh oil! Jesus FN Christ!!!!!!!!
