STLCA 60 Series Club Thread

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crap...WTF...did you use a Toyota Head gasket? Seems like in the case of the 2f Head Gasket the Toyota one is suppose to be the best. I've run Fel Pro on the GM stuff I've messed with....for years with no problems. Seems like the head gasket on the 2f is a royal pain in the @$$. I would double check your torque values to make sure you are good.... wonder if thats stuff just cooking off or the damn thing is leaking...don't know how long you've run it.
 
Are you getting oil up to the rockers?

If not the head gasket is installed wrong and blocking the oil hole from the block to the head . Only one way to fix is the bad thing .
 
Yes, oil in rockers from what I see.
I think I found the problem, well one problem. So first thing is since I desmogged, it wasn't very clear what to do with the pcv output hose and the vent port on the valve cover. Long story short, I just routed the pcv back into the valve cover. This was bad because A-the valve cover port needs to breath & B-the pcv is exactly that, positive crankcase ventilation so I was over pressurizing the valve cover causing oil to leak out the gasket. I know what your thinking, even if, you shouldn't have leakage there but remember from physics air tight is not always water tight. So far since I removed the pcv from the valve cover, no more oil coming out.
 
Next problem found, still leaking around carb insulator. As I was tightening the carb nuts, I noticed the offset distance between the nut & top of stud was not equal on all four. I found 2 of 4 studs loose. Many moons ago I put a heilecoil in one of them but apparently that one has come out too. Last but not least, I also had a guy long time ago weld up a hairline crack in the bottom of my intake. Should I have had him machine it down flat again? Maybe a used intake is my best route? Anybody got one???
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I'll keep my peepers peeled for one for you. A guy close to our apt had a 60 that had been rolled in his carport for a long time, might stop of I see someone out in the yard next time I go by. I bet ACC has one in their stash. I know they are getting moved and settled into the new shop, so I don't know the best way to reach them. @BMThiker did the shop number stay the same? I haven't looked at the website or anything so all the info might be there.
 
Next problem found, still leaking around carb insulator. As I was tightening the carb nuts, I noticed the offset distance between the nut & top of stud was not equal on all four. I found 2 of 4 studs loose. Many moons ago I put a heilecoil in one of them but apparently that one has come out too. Last but not least, I also had a guy long time ago weld up a hairline crack in the bottom of my intake. Should I have had him machine it down flat again? Maybe a used intake is my best route? Anybody got one???View attachment 1132279View attachment 1132280



For Sale: - Used 2F parts came across this in the classified area....says he has an intake for sale...
 
I have a intake you can have . I think it is in good shape .

or

Take yours down to the machine shop and have them heli-coil it then pin it . It will never loosen up again unless you really want it out .
 
I'll keep my peepers peeled for one for you. A guy close to our apt had a 60 that had been rolled in his carport for a long time, might stop of I see someone out in the yard next time I go by. I bet ACC has one in their stash. I know they are getting moved and settled into the new shop, so I don't know the best way to reach them. @BMThiker did the shop number stay the same? I haven't looked at the website or anything so all the info might be there.
No, the phone company told them they couldn't keep their old number. www.accgarage.com Main banner has all the new info.
 
Took intake to my friends shop. Removed all 4 studs & drilled out the m8 threads. Put m10-m8 heli-coils in w permanent loctite. Put studs back in today with loctite as well. Machined down that huge weld then sanded & put this metal patch in the groove. Will let it setup for a day and see what happens.
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Well she's running. Not idling but w choke on I at least drove it around the block. Pulls good and revs w plenty of power. I've got the distributor loose and have been messing w timing. Hopefully I can get this thing back on the damn trail soon!
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well...one of my major projects got fixed this weekend or appears to be fixed. I've been screwing with steering problems for a while...gone through numerous p/s pumps, rebuilt gears...etc. So I jumped off and got a nice PSC pump and remote reservoir, and changed my cooler setup...problems came back...but no pump whine or apparent issues with the pump or setup....well there was only one other place to look...back at the steering gear. So I rolled the dice and got one of these....

https://www.trail-gear.com/TG/FJ60_62_Steering_Box/i_0_0_4288/_130034-1.aspx#.VfZMszZRGUk

Rebuilt gear from Trail gear out in CA. Well I can say this....the steering is the best its ever been. No pump whine, no issues reasonable assit etc. My friend helped me get some stuff fixed and we swapped the gear. So far so good. Its not cheap but throwing it out there if other have issues with their steering gear. I just kept having hard to steer issues for no apparent reason. So anyway maybe this will be helpful to others....I think Iron Pig sells the same unit.

Also noticed that the 4 runner caliper I have (which I recall is from a 94) on the front....the pads don't sit down all the way....so the full face of the front disk brake pads don't cover the rotor correctly...leaving a very small lip on the pads outer edge. I don't think its too much of a big deal...but did not see anything that would make this happen. We swapped out the front pads and the rear shoes, and front shocks and put on a new fan belt.

I'm having some issues with my trailer wiring and I screwed around this afternoon trying to get that sorted out but did not get it squared away. Looks like the guy who wired my trailer was color blind because few if any of the colors of the wireing on the 7pin connector match the assigned colors on the plug (I discovered this when I took the thing apart) when trying to see where my black "hot" wire was that I could use to power the onboard break-away kit I bought with built in charger. So it looks like the genius just made things work on the trailer end....screw the colors...they mean nothing. I think the 7 pin pug I have is a piece of garbage...I'm either going to change it out or have the trailer place fix it. Dam crazy time to find this... hopefully I'll have it done by this coming weekend. When I get back from UT, I'm going to re-do the wiring at some point and stay uniform with the colors and probally install a junction box on the frame rail and tie the brake/turn signal/brake lights into their respective color coded stud...been snooping around e-trailer. I can't believe they just made the wiring work at the trailer level and at the plug level...whatever color was used at whatever plug....(the plug has the colors assigned right above the set screw u use to connect the wires to inside the plug...guess the guy was color blind or something. Aggrivating...
 
I have never worked on a trailer or truck where the colors match the 7 pin.
Even the trailer wire cable I have bought did not have correct colors for 7 pin. The old standard 6 pins were labled by function ( LT, RT etc).
You are lucky if your wires are colored, guy who wired the connectors on my IH used all black wires
 
My 7 pin on my ford wasn't correct, everything was 1 pin off
 
The biggest mistake I have seen is 180 out as the picture on package is not always clear on which side you are looking at.
 
I have never worked on a trailer or truck where the colors match the 7 pin.
Even the trailer wire cable I have bought did not have correct colors for 7 pin. The old standard 6 pins were labled by function ( LT, RT etc).
You are lucky if your wires are colored, guy who wired the connectors on my IH used all black wires


Yea I understand how the colors could be off from the 7 pin harness as it transitions to the wires on the trailer. But when you take the 7 pin apart at the plug and inside there it says ..black,yellow,blue...etc and the colors of the wires on more than one area are different makes you go ??
Looks like the wiring genius used two double insulated wire bundles...one with two wires..neutral-white and black which should be blue, and then another wire bundle with three wires yellow, green and another color which I believe drive the lights....and thats all run up into the 7 pin which is just an extension of the bundled (two wire and three wire )... kind of a home-brewed solution. No real 7 pin harness just a taped up or heat shrink 4 foot extension or so. (not a fan once I've started looking into it). I had to work really late today..so I'm not sure I have 12vots on the black wire for constant hot (to use to power the on-board charger/breakaway kit I bought) I had to install this wire myself as its not part of the bundle.

I think I have the wires setup right according to the instructions....off the controller..it has three wires...white to ground, blue to one of the breakaway switches black wires, and the black wire off the charger is suppose to be powered off the 12 volt "7th wire " which is suppose to be black coming off the 7 pin connector, then the only other wire to connect is the other black wire off the break-away switch and according to the instructions its suppose to feed the blue wire that powers the brakes. Something is not right...because I'm getting an error msg in teh cab related to the trailer breaks and my running lights don't work. I have the thing connected right according to the etrailer video and the less that great instructions...not sure right now I have 12 volts on the constant wire ( i can check that but have not done so yet).. my only other concern is that I"M tagging the right wire on the trailer....since on the trailer from what I can tell...the black wire that feeds the brakes is suppose to be colored blue and so that's what I'm tapped into.

I've ordered a real 7 pin harness with junction box, but hopefully I can get what I have up and running shortly. Would be great if the wires were uniform off the 7 pin connector as they are defined at the truck side of the 7 pin..so if you saw whatever color wire..you knew what its doing.
 
My 7 pin on my ford wasn't correct, everything was 1 pin off

yea it dawned on me that I need to check the 7 pin cable against the colors or setup on the GM plug I have. There is a label on the black GM plastic female pin cover...but its hell to read...basically I'll have to get my face down there at bumper level a foot or two off the plug to double check.

I'm not a big fan of the home-brewed 7 pin plug and quasi harness I presently have....I like the properly made 7 pin plug+ harness thats about 6 foot long or so ( i know you can get different lengths) as those seem to be well made. What I have is a half-baked approach now that I've looked into it. Yes I guess I'm lucky to have some colors... apparently the wires setups the people like to use don't mirror the colors of the normal 7 pin configuration. I assume there is uniform standard on the 7 pin across GM/Ford/Dodge and others...
 
trailer re-wire kicks off tomorrow, and then hopefully wire setup for the front two seats in the 60. I think I'll change the oil for fun and maybe the air filter. Far as I know...all my mechanical stuff is good. I do need to protect my high pressure ps hose with some double wrap of heater hose or something to keep it from rubbing and I know I can always clean up some of the stuff under the hood but may have to just set that aside until later in the year. May try and extend my axle vents too.


(edit...Sunday afternoon) Got the trailer fixed up...new 7 way/pin harness with junction box and new breakaway kit with charger....plus some re-wiring and some new grounds. Once I got my mind over the changing colors of the wires I was good. Got the power seats wired up but the driver's side is being a pain in the ass... late this afternoon the driver side does not work but the passenger side does. Power and grounds to both...dang...I was on a rool. Got new winch roller fairlead intalled...I really hammered my old one on a few of the larger rocks so it was useless.

Steering is working fine (I can hardley believe it)....the trail gear steering gear has solved my problems...at least so far.
 
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@sk8salomon how's things coming on the 2F? You got her up and going?
 
@sk8salomon how's things coming on the 2F? You got her up and going?
Well it starts fine and runs fine over 2k rpm w choke on. As soon as I dump the choke, it stumbles & dies. Drove it around the block, pulls great w new 488s and has plenty of power but I'm guessing still vacuum leak. I'm outta town all week so i dropped it off at a shop down the street. I know the guy well & he knows 2Fs. We will see but I'm tired of FN w it :(
 

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