still running rich (1 Viewer)

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it was off - by my best guess, it was at about 3-4 degrees BTDC.

I feel great relief, but pretty stupid at the same time...well, I say that, but I've still gotta pass the smog test - though I think i will.
 
3-4 degrees isn't way off, but maybe it'll help. When you get the smog test done, make sure the cat is good and hot. If its original its probably getting weak. Do a least 5 to 10 miles at highway speed before the emit test.
 
It failed...and I drove it on the highway for a while and ran errands.

1540 RPM - high speed test (25 MPH)
HC(PPM): standard 310 - Mine: 479 - NOW: 504
CO(%) 2.49 standard - Mine: 4.44 - NOW: 1.74 (only improvement)
CO2 - Mine: 11.9 - NOW: 13.4
O2 - mine: 0.2 – NOW: 0.2
NOx Standard 2198 - Mine: 449 - NOW: 2265
dilution(%) >6 Mine: 16.3 NOW: 15.1

Low Speed (15mph) 1549 RPM (new test 1504 RPM)
HC(PPM): standard 315 - Mine: 512
CO(%) 1.80 standard - Mine: 4.34
CO2 - Mine: 11.9
O2 - mine: 0.2
NOx Standard 2359 - Mine: 475
dilution(%) >6 Mine: 16.2

Low Speed (15mph) 1504 RPM
HC(PPM): standard 315 - Mine: 512 – NOW: 554
CO(%) 1.80 standard - Mine: 4.34 NOW: 2.06
CO2 - Mine: 11.9 – NOW: 13.2
O2 - mine: 0.2 – NOW: 0.3
NOx Standard 2359 - Mine: 475 – NOW: 2027
dilution(%) >6 Mine: 16.2 - NOW: 15.3

The black smoke is gone...but a new cat from Toyota (because the '83 has a weird one) is $800 + labor to install it.

I can qualify for the 5k per year exemption though. I can't think of anything else to do at this point.
 
That sucks. I can really identify with that sinking feeling in your stomach as you see the emissions tester printing out the failure report, for the 4th time. Since the CO dropped at higher RPM, I'll bet the air injection is working Ok. Something else is dumping too much gas into the airstream. I once had an 82FJ60 that failed for high HC. The problem turned out to be a failed VSV in the evap control circuit. Its a long shot but keep plugging away at it and you'll figure it out. Do you have the factory emissions book?
 
I've got the book on order...

In Texas, they have an exemption for vehicles that go less than 5k miles per year - you don't have to pass the smog test. I don't drive that much and according to my records, I've only put 7k miles on it in the last 2 years. Looks like I'll be doing the exemption. If my milage starts getting up there, I can always pull the speedo cable.

When i get the book, I'll just start testing all of the little crap like that in the system...
 
Swank60,

Be patient, everything will work out eventually. I've had my cruiser for 12 years, and had to do the emissions test every year, the penalty for living on colorado's front range. Last year was the final year I couldn't adjust the carb, in anyway, to get it to pass. I was pulling my hair out, kicking the dog, beating the... oh, that's a different story :D.

Anyway, I finally punted on the stock carberator. I know a lot of people on this board would disagree, but I put my money down on a weber and haven't looked back. I had to re-jet the weber for high-altitude, and make some minor idling adjustments, and my cruiser is an emissions passing machine. To be honest it runs better now than it ever has, even after the engine rebuild :D

Good luck, I just wanted to let you know how I _had_ to fix the problem. No exemptions for me...
 
I thought the Webber was a non-smog carb? What did you do with the existing EGR garbage?

I have heard that with a Webber you can get better gas milage - but that doesn't mean a passing test...
 
I took the easy way out. In terms of cash and time. I purchased the weber kit from man-a-fre that allows you to keep the same linkages, and air filter assembly. My mileage did improve from 10 to 12 mpg :D. I think a rebuild aisin would of gotten me up to 12 also... But it's now hard to actually calculate my mileage with the new 33s.

Anyway I'll get a picture for you later today after my wife brings the truck back.
 
Yes, I got it specifically for the '60. I'll attach pics in this post, along with the next 2.
 
[quote author=swank60 link=board=1;threadid=12658;start=msg116663#msg116663 date=1078665543]

what should I look for in a compression test? Is there a certain way I should do it to get the right readings?
[/quote]

You won't pass if the engine is worn out of there is a burned valve.

Back to basics: Check the compression. Remove all the spark plugs, hole the throttle wide open and crank the engine about 6 seconds to check every cylinder. Shoot for all over 125 PSI with no more than 12 PSI variation. Shoot 5 CC of oil in each cylinder and measure again. If pressure increases more than 20%, then the rings are not good.
 
also, it doens't look like you changed the air rail, either - Man-ItAin't-Fre sells a rail that's supposed to go around the electric choke (with a core)

Also, I'm a bad mechanic - terrible, even (I make up for it with persistence) Is a weber hard to set up and deal with? The dream set up on my old TR6 is triple side draught dueces, but was always, always, always counseled against it because of how touchy they were (and the fact that no one could work on them, except for a handful of 90 year old guys who could do it all by ear, or they used the Force or whatever...)
 
swank60,

Give man-a-fre a call they are helpful. There are also manuals on the weber carberator from red-line. The setup on the weber is easier than the aisin. The biggest problem will be picking the right jets. Because if you pick wrong you have to set it up again. I went with the high-altitude jets (you have to order them seperately). Good Luck. You'll get it working. These LandBeasts are frustrating and rewarding at the same time :).

Call man-a-fre...
 

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