Still pulling to the right after new calipers? (2 Viewers)

[Batameez]

Background: New Seiken booster and Aisin master were installed in early 2021 after the original master failed. Also had a used LSPV installed since the og looked like it came from the Titanic. Brake pedal feel was relatively good, still not amazing compared to other cars but I thought it stopped fine for being a geriatric elephant. The mechanic who did this work was good, and I believe he used a vacuum bleeder from Snap-On. Around early 2023 a front caliper got seized. They were replaced with remans from Rock Auto by a dingus mechanic. Front pads and rotors were reused, didn't appear excessively worn and honestly I wouldn't have trusted that guy to order new lock washers or torque the axle nuts down properly . Rear pads and rotors were done at this time too. Brake pedal feel was never great, and the ABS light would trigger after rolling a few feet.

Fast forward to now: Brake pedal feel was very mushy. Just not something I'd consider safe anymore. There was a prominent pull the the right under braking. One of the front calipers was seized (Cardone = Car is Done, remember that next time you might buy their remans). This current mechanic (whose skills I am not doubting, a proper car guy) has replaced front calipers with reman OEMs, every single rubber hose has been replaced with a Sunsong OEM equivalent hose (including cross referenced numbers for extended front and rear lines), rear calipers ended up being replaced with locally sourced remans, and full Bosch Quietcast pads and rotors. Also, a full parking brake rebuild using OEM parts. Despite all this work, pedal feel is lacking according to the mechanic. There is also still a strong pull to the right under braking. Axle nut torque was verified, and we used new lock washers. No wheel bearing play.

ABS light illuminating after rolling a few feet still persists, he has not pulled codes yet but it has to be related to work from the previous dingus mechanic. Possibly a damaged wire or sensor. But the pull to the right is still odd. He is confident the bleeding was done properly, and he followed the FSM method that included the 5th bleeder on the LSPV in the given order. He also inspected the clevis on the booster to see if it is set too deep. He said it looks quite maxed out, the only way it would be an issue is if the threaded rod on the Seiken is shorter than the original. Seems unlikely but I won't write it off completely. I also have a mild lift in the rear via the basic Ironman springs and shocks. The used LSPV was adjusted by me from the bracket side to compensate for the rear rake as told by a few threads I searched about LSPV adjustment. The mechanic is verifying this adjustment again.

Another possibility we discussed is an internal issue with the ABS pump. I have personally never seen an ABS pump fail in such a way that led to a braking pull to one side, but I won't write it off. Thought? Prayers? Thank you. I'd like to retain the ABS system, but also realize good replacement pumps are finite on the used market.

 

[NeverFinis]

The ABS actuator is not easy to bleed, unless one has the original Toyota tool for bleeding it. I doubt your mechanic has it.

My ABS actuator is from someone who pulled it because of a soft pedal. It is now working properly in my vehicle.

Besides bad sensors, the ABS actuator electric motor can seize, triggering a code.

 

[ChaseTruck]

It is my understanding that air in the ABS can be difficult to get out. I’ve read that a potential remedy for that is to force the ABS to actuate by braking hard on a slippery surface so the tires would lock up. What does the truck do if you stomp the brakes while driving on a dirt road - does the ABS try to kick in?

 

[Batameez]

It is my understanding that air in the ABS can be difficult to get out. I’ve read that a potential remedy for that is to force the ABS to actuate by braking hard on a slippery surface so the tires would lock up. What does the truck do if you stomp the brakes while driving on a dirt road - does the ABS try to kick in?

We will need to pull codes first to see if a wheel speed sensor was damaged during the first caliper replacement. Otherwise the ABS light illuminates and disables the system after 10 feet or so of rolling forward. So we can't even do that. We could however manually cycle to pump, I believe I've seen a post showing how to jump it to make it cycle for bleeding purposes.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

When mine starts to pull its because the rear slider pins need to be pulled, cleaned and re-greased. I try to remember to do it every oil change/tire rotation, but at a min every 15K miles.

 

[Batameez]

When mine starts to pull its because the rear slider pins need to be pulled, cleaned and re-greased. I try to remember to do it every oil change/tire rotation, but at a min every 15K miles.

All freshly greased, and not with anti-seize. Actual brake grease.

 

[CivicFerio]

I'm about to tackle mine as my 80 pulls to the left hard during hard braking.

Another way to diagnose is to hook up a hydraulic pressure gauge on the caliper to see if they are receiving the same pressures. Unequal pressure will lead to pulling under braking.

 

[thedoughboy]

If you need to activate the ABS system while bleeding here you go.