STILL having issues with gas

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Jun 3, 2012
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Hey guys, I posted a previous thread re: my truck choking after running perfect for about 5 minutes. I have done the same drive to test it in my neighborhood and it is now almost comical to predict at which point the truck starts to choke.

Read here for my explanation of the issues and things we tried to do to fix it:

Can't seem to figure out FJ60 Fuel issue


The common consensus was that the igniter was bad which we replaced. It didn't do anything and my mechanic is starting to guess at this point as to what the issues may be. Really frustrating. I really can't believe we can't figure it out as it really drives perfect for the first 5 minutes of the test drive.
 
Fuel pump, fuel tank pulled and cleaned, fuel lines, carb rebuilt, new spark plugs, new coil and ignitor.... (from reading back).
Plug wires?
ICS definetly working?
Smogged? Distributor recurved? Timing adjusted?
Friend of mine just told me last night about his truck having a kill switch that is linked up w/ his hood release and his starter. Could there be an issue w/ the wiring to emissions computer or the wiring that connects the tach to the coil? I'm seriously just grabbing straws here.
What year truck? And it's a 60 right?
 
I didn't ever see where you listed motor type or smog status? Or if you ever verified gas in sight glass after it stalls out? Or if you took the other suggestions and packed a timing light and checked spark? You got some good suggestions in the other thread that I don't see any follow up on.

Could be a vacuum line problem.. I can tell when my advance BVSV opens when driving out of my neighborhood, I get a little power boost. It happens at almost the exact same spot every morning. If your vacuum lines are hooked up wrong, you could be sucking where you shouldn't be.

I had a distributor go bad in a Ford once, it would run fine for a short time, stop working...sit for 30 minutes or so...work again. Turns out the heat was messing with the pickup in the distributor.
 
To rule out a fuel supply to carb issue, this is what I'd do:

Park the car & let it idle at fast idle, maybe 1400 rpm for 10-15 minutes or until the engine starts to act up.

While the engine is idling fast, watch the fuel level in the sight glass in the carb. Keep on watching it for the whole time.

If the engine starts sputtering yet the fuel level in the carb bowl remains the same, the problem isn't a fuel supply issue TO the carb.

The engine needs correct spark, fuel & compression. That's all. Then it will run.
 
To rule out a fuel supply to carb issue, this is what I'd do:

Park the car & let it idle at fast idle, maybe 1400 rpm for 10-15 minutes or until the engine starts to act up.

While the engine is idling fast, watch the fuel level in the sight glass in the carb. Keep on watching it for the whole time.

If the engine starts sputtering yet the fuel level in the carb bowl remains the same, the problem isn't a fuel supply issue TO the carb.

The engine needs correct spark, fuel & compression. That's all. Then it will run.

thanks for the suggestion, i did as you suggested. I couldn't see any fuel in the carb glass window. I tried rocking the truck back and forth to see if I could see any movement in there but i couldn't. Unless I am going crazy, I didn't see any gas in the carb which wouldn't make sense. Truck didn't have any issues for the 10 minutes it was idling.
 
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We haven't cleaned out the carburetor yet but we did notice some of the lines going to it had leaks so we trimmed some of the hoses to allow direct flow. Truck ran better longer without the same hiccups, however, it started backfiring, choking, and sputtering when I pulled into my house. The next step is to clean out the caruburetor.
 
We haven't cleaned out the carburetor yet but we did notice some of the lines going to it had leaks so we trimmed some of the hoses to allow direct flow. Truck ran better longer without the same hiccups, however, it started backfiring, choking, and sputtering when I pulled into my house. The next step is to clean out the caruburetor.
Try an Okie rebuild first. Easy 'fix' if you're clogged up.
 
From the other thread it looks like the carb was rebuilt? If you can't see a line in the site glass, it is either below the glass or filled to where the bowl is full. Two rebuilds ago on my carb, I replaced the float and when I set the drop to spec, the float was hitting the little metal baffle on the air horn and not pushing the needle all the way closed (didn't realize this until after it was installed and running crappy). This caused my bowl to fill up when the rpms went up and after decelerating, I would be flooded out and sputtering and barely running.
 

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