STIHL 1120 Series Complete Engine Rebuild (009, 010, 011, 012 Chain Saws) (1 Viewer)

[Snublefot]

Seems like it is ok, but to be sure I opened it to see if everything was OK. I suppose it was correct assembled with the ball in the bottom followed by the spring

 

[D'Animal]

Does it smoke alot?

 

[Snublefot]

Will assemble it tomorrow and see what happens, it didn't smoke before I too it apart. I have disassembled it and had a look at the carb, fuel - and oil lines. Everything looked fine to me.

 

[Snublefot]

Have started it now and it didn't smoke more than it should, but the chain oil is soaking the chain, oil is dripping from the sword.

I have ordered a new diaphragm for the oil pump in case oil is seeping through it. Couldn't see anything wrong with it, but just have to do something to eliminate the pump.

 

[amcford]

Where did you find the oil pump diaphragm??? I have a 010av that won't oil at all, & am looking to try a diaphragm next, but couldn't find one online.

My lines are clean, the passage from the crankcase to the pump is open, everything looks good, but no oil. The "filter" does look a little worse for wear, but I can't imagine that it would restrict flow, as it is so loose on the pump. Am I overlooking anything???

I really want to get this saw working 100%. It was a $10.00 swap meet find. The owner said it wouldn't run, it had "carb problems". Turns out the low speed screw was turned all the way in! Set correctly, it fired right up.

 

[Snublefot]

I just went to the nearest Stihl shop and asked for it... they said that it would take a short week to get one. When I bought the saw the tube that should be connected to the pump was disconnected so it wasn't surprising that no oil came out. Since then I have cleaned the bores in the saw and in the sword. Now I am just waiting for the diaphragm to arrive.

 

[D'Animal]

Your checkball may be stuck. It is behind the brass nipple the oil line discharge hole connects to. You could also be missing the diaphragm return spring.

Where did you find the oil pump diaphragm??? I have a 010av that won't oil at all, & am looking to try a diaphragm next, but couldn't find one online.

My lines are clean, the passage from the crankcase to the pump is open, everything looks good, but no oil. The "filter" does look a little worse for wear, but I can't imagine that it would restrict flow, as it is so loose on the pump. Am I overlooking anything???

I really want to get this saw working 100%. It was a $10.00 swap meet find. The owner said it wouldn't run, it had "carb problems". Turns out the low speed screw was turned all the way in! Set correctly, it fired right up.

 

[Snublefot]

Your checkball may be stuck. It is behind the brass nipple the oil line discharge hole connects to. You could also be missing the diaphragm return spring.

The checkball is working, and now I have changed the diaphragm an presto... seems like it did the trick.

Now I am waiting for an AVP 20 Super Electronic soon coming up from a friend of mine. I don't know anything about that one except that I get it for free.

 

[amcford]

I took everything apart again for another look. The check ball seems to be in place & doesn't seem to be stuck. The spring is in place. I did notice that the diaphragm is bowed in where the passage from the crankcase to the pump is. It is mostly blocking the passage. I took the diaphragm out & set it on my bench. I then heated the tip of a small screwdriver, & used that to try & smooth out the buckle in the diaphragm. It worked some, it is flatter than it was. When reassembled, the saw does pump a little oil, but not as much as I am used to on my other saws. I'm going to get a new diaphragm & try that.

Thanks for the help guys, & thanks D'animal for an excellent writeup!!!!

 

[D'Animal]

Does your oil pump plunger have a spring on it?

It should.

 

[amcford]

There is a spring on the back of the diaphragm, & the check ball is spring loaded also. The plunger itself does not have a spring on it.

I am starting to think the problem is that the thick gasket & diaphragm are both bowing in & partially blocking off the passage from the crankcase to the back of the diaphragm.

 

[D'Animal]

There should be a spring between the diaphragm and the pump cover.

0000 997 0612 if your cover has a rubber cap on it.
0000 997 0610 if you cover is solid.

Make sure you put the gasket on first and that the passage is open.

There is a spring on the back of the diaphragm, & the check ball is spring loaded also. The plunger itself does not have a spring on it.

I am starting to think the problem is that the thick gasket & diaphragm are both bowing in & partially blocking off the passage from the crankcase to the back of the diaphragm.

 

[jackofalltrades]

Stihl 011avt oil pump hose replacement.

D'Animal, how do I get the oil hose connected at the bar area? Is there a hose nipple that I can pull out, run the hose through the hole and to the oil pump, then attach the hose to the nipple and reinstall it or do I have to split the case? Thanks for your help. Your answers are the best I have seen on the 'net. jackofalltrades

 

[D'Animal]

You run the hose through the oil dischage hole in the crankcase and feed it through to the oil pump. There is a sleeve that slides into the end of it so it does not go all of the way through.

You should be able to plug the other end of the hose onto the nipple on the oil pump and then install the pump.

The second picture down in post #16 of this thread will show you what you cannot see. Well you can see it if you look through the oil cap. It is the black hose with the yellow stipe on it.

 

[flemlux]

Hi D'Animal,

I'm just about to rebuild an old 009 orange saw and I was wondering if you could tell me how to re install the coil and points and set them correctly as I haven't had much to do with this type of setup.

Thanks

[The older Orange 1120 series will have points and condensor under the flyhweel. I will post picture at a later time how to set and adjust those.]

 

[D'Animal]

The 1116 400 2000 is the Breaker Point Assy.

Set them .016 and you should be dang near dead on.

There is a timing mark on the flywheel as well as the crankcase where you can use an ignition timing tool to really dial it in.

If you have to buy the breaker ignition assy, you may want to consider going to an Electronic ignition conversion kit. They stopped installing Breaker point in the 010 in 1984 in the USA.

Hi D'Animal,

I'm just about to rebuild an old 009 orange saw and I was wondering if you could tell me how to re install the coil and points and set them correctly as I haven't had much to do with this type of setup.

Thanks

[The older Orange 1120 series will have points and condensor under the flyhweel. I will post picture at a later time how to set and adjust those.]

 

[Mondo9]

would just like to thank D'Animal for this article. took a couple of days but I finally got it working.Oil pump in a 009. Took ages to figure out where the check ball was, from your various descriptions, because it was stuck!!!! finally dislodged it by applying vacuum (sucking on it)at the discharge end and checking with the blunt end of a 0.5mm drill bit from the diaphram end. Thanks Heaps

 

[flemlux]

Would you be able to tell me how to correctly tune the carby.
From what i can work out screw both low and high idle screws in all the way, then screw out each screw 1 full turn and go from there. Is there anything else I should be aware of?

 

[D'Animal]

As a starting point, you might wat to go 1 1/4 turn for the old orange versions.You can adjust them in from there.

Would you be able to tell me how to correctly tune the carby.
From what i can work out screw both low and high idle screws in all the way, then screw out each screw 1 full turn and go from there. Is there anything else I should be aware of?

 

[flemlux]

Hello, thanks for all your help, just wondering how to set the air gap on the coil. i have an electronic ignition now and this is the only thing i am stumped with. if you have a photo that would be great, thanks!