- Thread starter
- #81
The closer the coil is to the flywheel the hotter spark you will have. You can use a thin business card unless you have a microfiche card to use.
STIHL 1120 Series Complete Engine Rebuild (009, 010, 011, 012 Chain Saws) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter D'Animal
- Start date
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I have just finished rebuilding my old orange 009, i'm having trouble starting it, it just wont fire, i'm stumped to why it isn't even attempting to start. I have spark at the spark plug (tried 3 seperate spark plugs aswell) tried with choke on, choke off, start throttle, full throttle, no throttle. After 5 or 6 pulls the spark plug is damp with fuel so there is no problem there, tried a shot in the cylinder with aerostart, still nothing. I have no idea why it's not firing. The only thing i noticed is I have another 009 saw that is a bit newer (white and orange) and the older orange saw seems "tighter" or even slightly harder to pull start. I'm not sure if it's because I have put a new piston ring in and there is less slop or is there something obvious i've done wrong when putting it back together? Can you please help?
- Thread starter
- #83
Make sure your flywheel key is in the correct location.
flywheel key is attached and flywheel is lined up with the key. One thing i'll note is that I used gasket goo insead of an actual crankcase gasket because my local chainsaw shop said they don't make them anymore. Would this explain the cause as to why the motor is a bit harder to turn over and would it make a big difference?
Disregard that last post, I ended up making a gasket up and put it all back together, it starts and runs fine, just having trouble making it idle, the idle screw isn't making contact with the throttle assembly. I have put carby kit in it and probably didn't put the throttle section in properly. I'll have to take off the carby and have another look.
- Thread starter
- #86
Every gasket should be available for the saw.
Make sure you use Locktite or a thread locking compound if you remove and reinstall the throttle butterfly screws.
Make sure you use Locktite or a thread locking compound if you remove and reinstall the throttle butterfly screws.
so did you ever do the thread on the 009 oiler? got one, needs kit, kit on the way. been previously rebuilt as evidenced by the spring being in wrong place, gaskets glued in, and foam not in evidence. need to see what intricasies involved when rebuilding.
- Thread starter
- #88
I found a few good crankcases so I will be replacing a few broken crankcases.
Anybody interested in another addition to this build thread?
It takes longer to document than it does to build them.
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Anybody interested in another addition to this build thread?
It takes longer to document than it does to build them.
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
definitely interested here in wales uk. still have my 010 from new 30 odd years ago. currently working on an 011 and like a previous thread I don't understand where the ball check valve is for the oiler - is it in the pump itself or is it at the other end of the rubber pipe where the oil leaves the crankcase to lubricate the bar - can just see a brass ring around the rubber. Thanks D'animal - without doubt one of the most comprehensive threads I've ever read - your labour is appreciated. Mike
history
really appreciated the history opener you gave to the thread "STIHL 1113 Series Engine (030, 031, 032) 1969 - 1984". could you do the same for the 1120 series. Am also curious to know if its true that one of the 009s was considerably more cc's than the others? Do you refer to a manual or history book when you relay the history - if so - what is it - I'm very interested in saw timelines and developments.
thanks
really appreciated the history opener you gave to the thread "STIHL 1113 Series Engine (030, 031, 032) 1969 - 1984". could you do the same for the 1120 series. Am also curious to know if its true that one of the 009s was considerably more cc's than the others? Do you refer to a manual or history book when you relay the history - if so - what is it - I'm very interested in saw timelines and developments.
thanks
- Thread starter
- #91
The Orange 009 was 2.3 c.i.
The White 009 is 2.3 c.i.
The 009 L is 2.5 c.i.
The 010 is 2.3c.i.
The Orange 011 is 2.3 c.i.
The white 011 is 2.5 c.i.
The 012 is 2.8 c.i.
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
The White 009 is 2.3 c.i.
The 009 L is 2.5 c.i.
The 010 is 2.3c.i.
The Orange 011 is 2.3 c.i.
The white 011 is 2.5 c.i.
The 012 is 2.8 c.i.
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
cheers D'animal - was their any significance to the orange versus white colours ?- i just have bought an orange 011 (made in stuttgart on the top)
did you ever do this thread on the 1120 series oiler?? thanks
- Thread starter
- #94
The White ones had Electronic Ignition.
The first generation of the Orange ones had points.
The later version of the Orange 011's had electronic ignitions.
The White ones had the 2.5 c.i. engine (exception of the 012)
I have an 011AVE made in Germany as well.
The first generation of the Orange ones had points.
The later version of the Orange 011's had electronic ignitions.
The White ones had the 2.5 c.i. engine (exception of the 012)
I have an 011AVE made in Germany as well.
Hi - that's a really interesting post. I've got an old white (wee bit of orange) 009 that I've been using but doesn't work very well. Starts after a lot of turning over, then runs as long as keep a bit of throttle on, stalls if left to idle. I'm tempted to dismantle it, clean and rebuild it as per your walkthrough, but have never tried anything like that before. I was wondering if I can do much damage, assuming I take it apart / put back together in the order you've shown? Finally, what's an 'old fashioned piston stop' and what does it do ?
- Thread starter
- #96
I will post some pictures of the oil pump system and the resurrection.
- Thread starter
- #98
Here is the actual breakdown of the oil pump.
- Thread starter
- #99
Starting from the left of the picture:
Gasket
Round Plastic Clip that snaps onto the brass nipple
Foam filter
Brass Nipple
Spring
Ball
Aluminum housing
Gasket (Has more holes in it that the one that is closest to the crankcase)
Diaphragm
Spring
Depending on what series and age your 1120 series is, you may or may no have items 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. On the older ones # 5 was a solid aluminum plate that was held in place with screws and has unique "C" clip that holds it to the aluminum pump housing.
The most common thing to happen is the ball gets stuck.
Gasket
Round Plastic Clip that snaps onto the brass nipple
Foam filter
Brass Nipple
Spring
Ball
Aluminum housing
Gasket (Has more holes in it that the one that is closest to the crankcase)
Diaphragm
Spring
Depending on what series and age your 1120 series is, you may or may no have items 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. On the older ones # 5 was a solid aluminum plate that was held in place with screws and has unique "C" clip that holds it to the aluminum pump housing.
The most common thing to happen is the ball gets stuck.
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