STIHL 1113 Series Engine (030, 031, 032) 1969 - 1984

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The chain brake on an 030 were a disengaging clutch system. There is one little curved spring that makes the system work that is attached to the clutch. The system works great but after 40 years parts are really hard to find.

The 032 is an easy repair for the chain brake. It is the entire side cover assy. If you saw did not come with it originally (it should have in the USA) you may have to change out the hand guard. The hand guard is the black piece of plastic that mounts to the handle frame. The Chain Brake style hand guard has a modified pivot area where the screw and tension spring hold it to the handle housing. This allows the hand guard to move all the way forward or down so the chain brake can engage.

Post up a picture of what you have, I will tell you what you are missing.
 
Here are a few pictures of my Stihl 032.
I read somewhere that the chain brake was an option for 032.
And judging by the number of 032 on ebay without the brake I guess it was an expensive option. I believe the early 032 had points also. Yesterday the borrowed compression gauge read 150 today my own gauge only reads 130.








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I am in Bend Oregon.

I had looked at a IPL and it showed two different hand guards.
One for use with the brake and one for use without a brake.
My hand guard has the square edge on the front side to keep it from moving to far forward. Though the hand guard does have a slot for the brake rod.
 
I found a new complete cover with brake and handle for $77 shipped.
Sounds like a fair price considering a used one without the hand guard is $40 plus shipping. Though I might be able to file the square edge off my handle.
 
Very good price.

I found a new complete cover with brake and handle for $77 shipped.
Sounds like a fair price considering a used one without the hand guard is $40 plus shipping. Though I might be able to file the square edge off my handle.

Yes you can file/grind the square spot off so it pivots as it should. Try the cover before you modify you hand guard.
 
Help(Stihl 029)

D'animal...I was wondering if you could check out my posts?(one is when u posted pictures of model 028). I posted some pictures showing my model 029(not oiling). I was wondering if you had any pictures showing how to take spider nut/getting to gear assembly on the 029? Also, the pictures I posted show a pinkish plastic piece that looks like it has mushroomed. Any thoughts? Could this be the the problem? Thanks,
Jared
 
Stihl 032 leaking oil

Hi,

I just bought a used Stihl 032 AV that seemed to be running great. The guy told me I just needed to fill it with bar oil and I was in business. So I took the saw home, bought some oil and put the saw on its side to fill the oil tank, which I did ....

When I picked the saw up there was a large pool of fresh oil under it. I sat it upright on some cardboard and it continued to slowly drip oil for about 10 mins. I then started and ran the saw for a few minutes, before stopping and inspecting again.

The oil was dripping quicker than before and seemed to be coming from around halfway up the bar. I pulled the saw apart using the instructions in this thread and am now at the point where the oil pump is exposed. Photos below.

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Close-up of oil pump region:

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Both of the gears that have been removed are in good condition with no worn teeth.

When I tip the saw on its side (crankshaft side down) a large amount of oil leaks out from the chain tensioning slot. I've tried to remove that metal plate to have a look under it by removing the screw indicated by the red arrow but the plate seems stuck.

I would very much appreciate any help to identify the source of the problem.

Thanks!
 
The plate is stuck because the rear bar stud has a smashed shoulder where the guide bar sits. Since the guide plate is bad, pry it off.

Once you get it off, you can remove the adjusting pin and screw. I'm guessing but, Clean out the adusting pin slot and look for a crack in the housing. The crack will happen when someone does not align the adjusting pin with the guide bar. When mis-aligned the pin will be pushed into the slot in the crankcase and crack it.
 
Thanks D'Animal ... your diagnosis was spot on! Nice big hole in the crankcase.

Here's a pic:

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I'm guessing the only fix is to replace that half of the case? Would it be worth doing if I found the same model saw (or others - 030, 031) cheap and did the work myself?

Thanks Again!
 
Just been reading about JB Weld and people using it on motorbike crankcases, etc. Since this part of the case doesn't look like it would be under much stress, could I use that to fix it? Or how about taking it to a welder?
 
032 AVE dies when hot

Hi D'animal - I have an 032AVE that sounds amazing - trouble is after 2 mins running and when warmed up it just dies.

Will fire crisp as anything when cool again and can sit and idle longer than I can wait - it seems to be heating up when cutting that is causing the problem. What do you think?

Many thanks and all the best from Wales UK
 

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