STIHL 1113 Series Engine (030, 031, 032) 1969 - 1984

[D'Animal]

I will cover this series as questions are asked. I have had several requests in other Chain Saw threads on these models so This is the dedicated thread for these.

The 030 was build in 1969 - 1970 only. Very few of them in exsistance. It was replace by the 031.

Fall of 1970 the 031 came out in America. In the mid 1970's it came with a disengaging clutch chain brake mechanism. Around 1978 the 031 got electronic ignition. Around 1980 it the QuickStop Chain Brake. Around 1981 they discontinued the 031. It was replaced with the 032.

The 032 came with Electronic Ignition, quickstop chain brake. The saw was a little different design than the 030 and the 031 but still carried the same series family name.

NEVER RUN THE 030, 031 OR 032 WITHOUT A BAR AND CHAIN AND THE SIDE COVER PROPERLY INSTALLED. Actually this holds true for any chain saw with an outboard mounted clutch assy. Upon deceleration with no load the clutch can unscrew itself and fly all over the place.


The true replacements for these saws today are the 034, 036, MS360 Pro (1125 Series), MS361 (1135 Series) and the MS 362.

 

[D'Animal]

030 Chain Saw

 

[D'Animal]

031 Series

 

[D'Animal]

032


Pics coming

 

[D'Animal]

Oiler Repair

The repair of the oil pump is not difficult but there are a few steps on the 030 and 031 that you have to do.


Remove the side cover Bar and Chain.

 

[D'Animal]

Remove the Starter.


Three screws hold the starter on the 030 and 031. Four screws hold the starter on the 032.

The reason you take the the starter off is the fact the starter pawls or dogs are mounted on the flywheel. When you tighten the clutch, you will brake the starter pulley. If you can find a new pulley, you will think you bought the saw all over again ($100+).

 

[D'Animal]

Remove the spark plug and insert piston stop # 1107 191 1201. The number may supercede to the newer plastic one. if you use the plastic one, make sure the eninge is completely cooled down. If you intsall a plastic piston stop in a warm engine, the threads of the piston stop will melt.

I removed the top handle housing for a better visual.

 

[D'Animal]

The clutch unscrews to the right. It is commonly called a Backwards thread.

Some of the earlier saws used a 13mm socket on a single nut. Newer versions had the 19mm nut made as part of the clutch spider or center section of the clutch.

 

[D'Animal]

For the older saws that have a nut and a washer holding the clutch on, you will need a spanner wrench. 113 890 3600 is the part number.

Here is what they look like. There are only three different sizes used on various model saws.

 

[D'Animal]

Remove the Clutch Assy

Remove the Spacer Washer. Notice how it come off. The outer edge with the Lip goes towards the saw. It will go on the same way. If this is installed backwards, the clutch will not disengage correctly and can come apart while running.

 

[D'Animal]

Once the sprocket is removed, remove the sprocket bearing, the next washer should have a drive pin in it. One side of the pin goes into the drive sprocket, the other end of the pin goes in the oiler drive gear.


This is the designed weak link and accounts for 90% of the oiler faults of this series.

Make sure the pin is in place and engages in both the oiler gear and the drive sprocket. There is a hole in the drive sprocket for the pin to set in.

 

[D'Animal]

Remove the four screws holding the oiler cover on. I put red "X" next to the locations.

 

[D'Animal]

Now the cover is removed you can see the oiler gears.

The one on the crankshaft is the drive gear. The one in the lower right hand corner is the driven gear.

The drive gear slides off the crankshaft.

If you run a long bar or drop the rakers on your chain, or run a dull chain, you cause clutch slippage. The clutch will get hot. The heat is transfered to the drive sprocket and through the crankshaft. If the clutch slippage is sever enough, it will melt the drive gear to the crankshaft. You make have to pry it off.

 

[D'Animal]

The driven gear unscrews. Resist the temptation to just pull it off, you will ruin the seal.

 

[D'Animal]

The oiler gears are pretty self explanitory. Missing teeth = Bad.

If you run across something that is not obvious, post up and I can do a complete teardown on the pump.

When you reassemble the parts. Make sure the washer with the drive pin is seated in the drive sprocket corectly. if the pin missed the hole and is against the side of the sprocket, it will push the pin into the oil seal. Severe Engine Damage Will Happen!


Uppon assembly, the torque on the clutch 40 Nm or 30 ft Lbs.

 

[D'Animal]

1113 Series Muffler 031

It is not uncommon for the baffle to break loose inside the muffler on the 031 chain saw. (The 030 has a cast muffler and the 032 has a multi-piece muffler)

Instead of trying to find a new muffler, you can repair your old one.


Remove the black hand guard on the front of the top handle housing. This would be the quickstop ahnd guard on the newer ones. Use a long 4.5mm Allen wrench to reach in through the two holes in the top handle housing and unscrew the two bolts at the muffler mount.


In the bottom picture, I removed the top schroud so you can see what you are trying to see with the eye in your mind.

 

[D'Animal]

There is one more allen head screw on the side just above the bar studs. Keep track of this screw. It is a 5mmx16mm screw. The rest of the screws on the saw are 5mm x 18mm or 5mm x 20mm. Upon reassembly, if you use the wrong screw it will bottom out in the hole. The screw will be tight but it will not be holding the muffler on.

 

[D'Animal]

Cut the muffler from the top and down the sides. No need to cut all the way through the bottom.

Remove broken baffle.

 

[D'Animal]

Unless you are really good at welding thin metal. Go "Old School" and Braze the muffler back together.


I highly recomend Brazing the muffler. A 2-cycle engine draws in on the down stroke on the exhaust side of the piston. If a piece of welding wire or a ball of splatter or a chunk of cold weld is inside the muffler and breaks off, it can end up in the piston area causing Severe Damage.

 

[DualSport650]

Stihl 032

I just picked up a Stihl 032. It appears to be low mileage.
I was doing a search for more information and found this.
Nice little article D'Animal.
So my question is about the chain brake or lack of should I say.
The chain brake appears to not of even been an option on the 030.
Is it worth trying to find all the parts to install a chain brake.
Or should I ask what all is needed to install a chain brake on the 032?
Do you need a few photos also?

Thanks DualSport650