Hi guys, I posted here a few months ago about not being able to shift into low range. I got the usual "Change the fluids", and also something about a pen being stuck in there. Well, now that I've done a full triple diff fluid change, the problem is no better. It was so stiff that I was not even able to shift out of high before the oil had warmed up. I also checked for a pen by unscrewing the top and sticking my pinkie in there (tiny fingers), and found nothing. I don't think it's a pen because it's difficult to put back into high as well. I finally managed to wrestle it into low range today, but it involved lots of grunting, leverage, and moving into the passenger seat. I'm not exactly a big guy, but it can't be normal to be THAT difficult. Any suggestions?
Stiff transfer case selector
- Thread starter cmfhsu
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- #3
Haha well mine isn't even doable with two. I had to shift into the passenger seat and use the extra space for leverage to get it into low and even that took more than 5 minutes after driving 60 highway miles. I'm pretty sure it's not normal...
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- #7
So I pulled the center console yesterday, and found: absolutely nothing... I'm starting to get a bit frustrated, as I'm getting this car ready for a bit of off roading action and everything's fine except for this ONE lever. Do you think it could be seized because the PO didn't ever change the transfer case oil in its 220000 mile life? It came out smelling awfully burnt but shouldn't filling it, but then shouldn't rowing through HI-LO a few times fix it at least a little? Looks like I'm stuck with hopping out and calling the hulk to sit in my passenger's seat and manhandle that knob is the only thing i can do....
Any ideas before I take it to a dealership?
Any ideas before I take it to a dealership?
I'm only saying this because I've seen it happen before. People will tell me that their 4 wheel does not work. I go sit in their truck, and I get it to work just like that. They get the puzzled look and ask how...
This is only to find out that they never put their transmission into neutral before pulling into 4-lo.
This be your case?
This is only to find out that they never put their transmission into neutral before pulling into 4-lo.
This be your case?
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- #9
This is my process: Drive around a while to warm up gear oil. Drive back to my driveway, put it in neutral on a slight incline. Let it roll backwards a few inches to take off any possible stress in the driveline. Yank the handbrake on and get to work with the shifter. I do that every time I try to put it in low range and I've only ever had the strength to put it in low 3, maybe 4 times.
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- #11
Yup tried it in the garage as well, flat ground, pull up, stick it in neutral. Same exact thing. I've tried almost every combination, engine on, engine off, flat ground, level ground, AHC hi, AHC N, (haven't tried it in low but there's not a big chance it'll work even then), even moving (slowly of course). I'm just glad Mr. T built these cars so indestructably because I would've snapped the shifter lever off in any other car.
- Thread starter
- #13
Ahh thank you so very much Hoser. This sounds exactly like what I am experiencing. Gonna go disconnect the linkage tomorrow and see if that's the problem.
P.S. does anybody know how you disconnect the seat heater and 2nd start/power ect plugs? Tried pulling them straight down in multiple places and I had no luck.
P.S. does anybody know how you disconnect the seat heater and 2nd start/power ect plugs? Tried pulling them straight down in multiple places and I had no luck.
When you pull the center console, lift it up a little, and push up on the buttons. They will pop out and they have little clips you push ( mine are impossible to release, some pliers and caution will do the magic, yours may be easy, so dont run out and start prying things apart) and the harness slides out. They are all different shapes. and make sure you put the seat heater switches back on the correct side! I drove 240 miles with a friend, who kept saying she was cold... i turned on her seat heater and I was then warm... I couldn't figure it out for about 30 minutes. I kept looking down at the switches to see if she put mine on as a joke. I stopped to get gas and looked at it.... they are backwards...
Nice, I wonder if they got new seals as well?
Just wondering if the OP can post a follow up. Was the issue resolved and if so, how?
Old thread but just lending some experience. I recently had this same problem, the 100 spent its first 17 years in OH. I tried lubing all linkage from underneath and from top through the shifter access to no effect so decided to dive in. Remove center console, transmission and transfer case in N. Remove transfer case shift knob. Pull up on the black part of the console, it will pop free. Disconnect buttons. Remove the rubber shift boot (four 10mm bolts). Only two bolts are accessible from inside the cab, 12mm socket for the top two visible bolts and a ratcheting 12mm gearwrench underneath in the trans tunnel (I’m skinny with long arms so was able to reach). Its definitely a PITA. Once off, wiggle the shift assembly forward toward the bellhousing and it will clear the trans linkage. Remove the dust cap, snap ring, washer and spring washer. Spray penetrating lube and try to work the shifter around. I used a hammer to work it free but distorted the end and I could not completely disassemble. I dropped some gear oil on the pivot shaft and its very smooth now. Reassemble the shifter. I wasn’t able to keep the corner washers in place for the install but the gasket and bolts tight it feels solid.
Just lubricate the linkage by removing the center console and from underneath the vehicle. I was having the exact same issue, the mix of rust and dirt made it almost impossible for the lever to go back to H. After a couple of days soaking the entire linkage it moves fine now.
Sure, a simple lube should be the first thing to try. In my case, a few treatments did not work. I could barely shift the transfer case warm with two hands on the knob. The pivot points in the shift assembly were the cause, corrosion.