Stiff Steering 100 Series (1 Viewer)

[AEC]

Guys I need some help/advice. Yes I have read just about every steering post on here. Reason for posting is my problem remains even with a brand new rack which is the usual suggestion. The following are my symptoms and what I've done so far. Also some backstory...

Backstory:
Took my 2003 Lx470 to a reputable (I thought) local land cruiser shop to have it looked over. One of the items mentioned was my steering rack was not centered. I had them center it. As soon as they centered it the steering became very stiff. They claimed it was coincidence and that I should replace the rack, UGH. Not sure what happened or why centering the rack would break it. Maybe a seal blew or something, I don't know.
I tried a VRGS re-centering, multiple alignments. Nothing helped.
The stiff steering is much worse at slow speeds when parking but still quite noticeable at high speeds.

Symptoms:
Stiff steering at low speeds
NO VGRS light, has been zeroed and everything by both me and a lexus dealership
No noise or whine from power steering pump, or leak.

Parts I've replaced:
Per the shops recommendation I replaced the steering rack with a brand new Toyota rack (no change in steering, still stiff)
New in and out hoses and new reservoir
New Dexron ATF used



At this point I'm planning on doing the power steering pump as I'm not sure what else could be causing this. Any help is appreciated!

 

[DuckLN]

The pump is the last item on the list. Funny thing is the weakness is usually found in the last place ya look.

 

[diego355]

Check the U-joints at the steering half shaft, I once experienced the same with a 4th gen 4runner

 

[AEC]

Check the U-joints at the steering half shaft, I once experienced the same with a 4th gen 4runner
View attachment 3668330

Hmm definitely worth a look. Is this before the VGRS system? as in, is this all the way down by the rack or is this to the steering wheel?

Also if it was ujoints I would think I would feel more like binding. It feels very smooth just stiff/tight.

 

[saucebox]

is this all the way down by the rack or is this to the steering wheel?

That shaft is between the firewall and the steering rack itself

 

[AEC]

Alright update. I’m about ready to sell this thing (relax I love it, never selling haha).

I replaced the power steering pump with a cheaply Amazon one just to see if it made any difference before I spend $300 on OEM. It made no difference.
Frustrated I brought it to the dealership to fully diagnose. Nothing wrong with the VGRS system (phew). But they said the pump is not pumping anything.
Ok fair enough it was literally, $60. Just replaced it again with a new Lexus pump and it’s still the same.

Honestly don’t know where to go from here. I messed with the intermittent shaft and it looks almost brand new and seems fine. Good suggestion though.
The car is completely drivable and now I’m questioning if I’m just overthinking it! I dono all suggestions are welcome but I’m just rolling with it for now.

 

[OwnerCS]

Check the U-joints at the steering half shaft, I once experienced the same with a 4th gen 4runner
View attachment 3668330

Mine would almost lock up on Left Turns before I replaced it.

 

[Mike NXP]

Alright update. I’m about ready to sell this thing (relax I love it, never selling haha).

I replaced the power steering pump with a cheaply Amazon one just to see if it made any difference before I spend $300 on OEM. It made no difference.
Frustrated I brought it to the dealership to fully diagnose. Nothing wrong with the VGRS system (phew). But they said the pump is not pumping anything.
Ok fair enough it was literally, $60. Just replaced it again with a new Lexus pump and it’s still the same.

Honestly don’t know where to go from here. I messed with the intermittent shaft and it looks almost brand new and seems fine. Good suggestion though.
The car is completely drivable and now I’m questioning if I’m just overthinking it! I dono all suggestions are welcome but I’m just rolling with it for now.

I guess I'd be curious if you think your pump isn't functioning and you have no power steering at all, or does it just feel stiffer in comparison to before you centered / changed the steering rack? Can you turn the wheel using a finger or two or do you really have to apply some 'oomph'

Are your vacuum lines and that little doo-dad on the back of the power steering pump in good condition and secured?

 

[LXJake93]

I experienced similar issues when I bought a '99 a few years ago. Here's a list of what I checked.

Steering shaft (dabbed it with green grease; not the issue)
Rack (turns out this was the culprit - PO used PS fluid not ATF and it was jacked up)
Pump (was fine but super old, possibly original to the truck @ 255k miles)
Tie rods (the boots leaked)
Tires (33" mud tires are hard on a steering rack especially when offroad)

 

[SteveH]

You could drop both TREs and make sure the steering knuckles swivel back and forth easily. I suspect they will, but it's part of troubleshooting (checking even the things that shouldn't be wrong).

 

[2001LC]

Guys I need some help/advice. Yes I have read just about every steering post on here. Reason for posting is my problem remains even with a brand new rack which is the usual suggestion. The following are my symptoms and what I've done so far. Also some backstory...

Backstory:
Took my 2003 Lx470 to a reputable (I thought) local land cruiser shop to have it looked over. One of the items mentioned was my steering rack was not centered. I had them center it. As soon as they centered it the steering became very stiff. They claimed it was coincidence and that I should replace the rack, UGH. Not sure what happened or why centering the rack would break it. Maybe a seal blew or something, I don't know.
I tried a VRGS re-centering, multiple alignments. Nothing helped.
The stiff steering is much worse at slow speeds when parking but still quite noticeable at high speeds.

Symptoms:
Stiff steering at low speeds
NO VGRS light, has been zeroed and everything by both me and a lexus dealership
No noise or whine from power steering pump, or leak.

Parts I've replaced:
Per the shops recommendation I replaced the steering rack with a brand new Toyota rack (no change in steering, still stiff)
New in and out hoses and new reservoir
New Dexron ATF used



At this point I'm planning on doing the power steering pump as I'm not sure what else could be causing this. Any help is appreciated!

Not sure what centering steering rack is.
Was this centerning TRE?
Or
Was it centering steering wheel?

Steering Rack is self centering. Provided good mounting bushing and proper alignment service.

Centering steering wheel, is done electronically through tech stream in VGRS system. Most shops techs and even some techs at Lexus, center by adjusting TRE, which can result in issues. I like TRE with even count of thread (IIRC ~9 treads exposed each side).

Steering issue VGRS related perhaps. But VGRS issue, of reported hard steering. Is reported in slow speed. I've not heard of hard steering in high speed.

I'll give some info on VGRS anyway.
VGRS actuator is very robust. But I have seen one fail. It had two incidences we felt damaged. First was frontal accident. It still work afterwards, but may have been weakened. Second was during R&P replacement. Very often shops use an air hammer, to beat off #2 intermediate shaft U-joint from pinion input shaft. Toyota TSB on VGRS snap ring recall, warns: Do not pound upward on intermediate shaft #1 (actuator) or #2. Doing so can damage the #1 intermediate shaft (actuator).

There are certain condition that put actuator into fail safe. Where VGRS light nor CEl given any indication. The only way we know, is a test. Test is, turn steering wheel lock to lock while parked and idling. When VGRS working we only get ~ 2 1/2 turns. If it turns more than, say like the non VGRS ~3 1/2 turns, it is off.

Off VGRS is only suppose to affect parking or low speed. Off it goes into failsafe, and is like non VGRS. So it should not be noticed in high speed driving.
Also check to see if both TRE have about same number of threads exposed.
Check, SAI of alignment print out sheet before after.
Check ball joints. (would expect steering hard at all times, more noticable low speed)
Check Universal of steering column and intermediate shafts. (would expect steering hard at all times, more noticable low speed)

Note: VGRS Calibration is not usually done during steering wheel centerning. But perhaps it needs to be or was at some point. One thing very often missed during a celebration of VGRS. Is all DTC & flags must first be cleared and zero point calibration (in ABS) done.

 

[AEC]

I guess I'd be curious if you think your pump isn't functioning and you have no power steering at all, or does it just feel stiffer in comparison to before you centered / changed the steering rack? Can you turn the wheel using a finger or two or do you really have to apply some 'oomph'

Are your vacuum lines and that little doo-dad on the back of the power steering pump in good condition and secured?

The pump is definitely working, I can turn the wheel with one hand but it takes effort. With two hands it's completely drivable but overall stiffer than before I had the original rack centered.

Yesterday when I put in the new Lexus pump I unintentionally broke that air valve because it was soooo brittle. the vacuum lines running to it are completely cracked and brittle as well. Got a Dorman replacement valve to get home and new lines have been ordered and will be put on this week.

 

[AEC]

Not sure what centering steering rack is.
Was this centerning TRE?
Or
Was it centering steering wheel?

Steering Rack is self centering. Provided good mounting bushing and proper alignment service.

Centering steering wheel, is done electronically through tech stream in VGRS system. Most shops techs and even some techs at Lexus, center by adjusting TRE, which can result in issues. I like TRE with even count of thread (IIRC ~9 treads exposed each side).

Steering issue VGRS related perhaps. But VGRS issue, of reported hard steering. Is reported in slow speed. I've not heard of hard steering in high speed.

I'll give some info on VGRS anyway.
VGRS actuator is very robust. But I have seen one fail. It had two incidences we felt damaged. First was frontal accident. It still work afterwards, but may have been weakened. Second was during R&P replacement. Very often shops use an air hammer, to beat off #2 intermediate shaft U-joint from pinion input shaft. Toyota TSB on VGRS snap ring recall, warns: Do not pound upward on intermediate shaft #1 (actuator) or #2. Doing so can damage the #1 intermediate shaft (actuator).

There are certain condition that put actuator into fail safe. Where VGRS light nor CEl given any indication. The only way we know, is a test. Test is, turn steering wheel lock to lock while parked and idling. When VGRS working we only get ~ 2 1/2 turns. If it turns more than, say like the non VGRS ~3 1/2 turns, it is off.

Off VGRS is only suppose to affect parking or low speed. Off it goes into failsafe, and is like non VGRS. So it should not be noticed in high speed driving.
Also check to see if both TRE have about same number of threads exposed.
Check, SAI of alignment print out sheet before after.
Check ball joints. (would expect steering hard at all times, more noticable low speed)
Check Universal of steering column and intermediate shafts. (would expect steering hard at all times, more noticable low speed)

Note: VGRS Calibration is not usually done during steering wheel centerning. But perhaps it needs to be or was at some point. One thing very often missed during a celebration of VGRS. Is all DTC & flags must first be cleared and zero point calibration (in ABS) done.

Yeah this was my mistake from the beginning for not asking more info from ACC on why it needed to be centered. Basically they said it was all the way to the right as in one TRE was fully out and the other was fully in, obviously not ideal but I'm pretty sure it ran that way for 180K miles.
They disconnected the rack from the steering wheel and ran it all the way left and right and then put it back in the center, then connected the wheel back if I understood correctly. Then I got an alignment and so on as mentioned.

The wheel was never centered by them, I did it through techstream and it was recently done again by the dealership. To be fair it was never way off center, maybe 5 degrees at most.

Yeah after all my research I would be amazed if the VGRS had failed. The Lexus dealership went through and checked that everthing was installed correctly when I did the new rack and it was good.
Great info on the amount of turns for VRGS vs Off. Just tested this, getting exactly 2.5 turns both ways.

Alignment was also done at the dealership, didn't get the numbers though. I am a race engineer during the day so I avoid any extra toe and camber numbers haha. I'll call and see if they can give them to me though.

As SteveH suggested above when I am back at the shop I will get the front up and check TREs, Ball joints, and steering knuckles.

 

[zgfiredude]

One question that hasn't been asked...Is the new rack a VGRS rack? Is there a chance that the rack was replaced with a non-vgrs rack?

 

[AEC]

One question that hasn't been asked...Is the new rack a VGRS rack? Is there a chance that the rack was replaced with a non-vgrs rack?

MANY hours of research and questions were had but I decided to go with a LC rack (OEM) vs an LX VGRS rack. Due to VGRS not being on the rack all I could find was possibly a small gear ratio difference.
Many on here have done this with no issues, I so far am one of those people.
I don't believe this is the cause of my issue because the before with old LX rack is the same with new LC rack, no change/help in steering stiffness.

Not sure how much weight it carries but my Lexus dealership checked it out as mentioned above and found no issues with using the LC rack.

 

[AEC]

UPDATE. Was messing around today and noticed this. See video above. This is the top of the steering shaft No 2 looking at where it goes through the firewall. You can see that there is something wrapped up and chewed up on the shaft. It looks like a boot??
Does anyone have pictures of what this is supposed to look like? Am I missing a boot? Clear something is in there that shouldn't be.
I noticed it because now when turning right at slow speeds I can feel and here a popping, I believe it is this getting wrapped up and jamming.

 

[2001LC]

UPDATE. Was messing around today and noticed this. See video above. This is the top of the steering shaft No 2 looking at where it goes through the firewall. You can see that there is something wrapped up and chewed up on the shaft. It looks like a boot??
Does anyone have pictures of what this is supposed to look like? Am I missing a boot? Clear something is in there that shouldn't be.
I noticed it because now when turning right at slow speeds I can feel and here a popping, I believe it is this getting wrapped up and jamming.

The boot you see on outside. Wraps inside also, around #1 intermediate shafts. The boots' inside area, is almost always tron. As yours is.

Has no direct effect on steering. But we've two concerns:
1) With VGRS systems, boot keeps moisture and dust out of the VGRS actuator (#1 intermediate shaft)
2) Fumes, heat and outside air (winter / summer) from engine compartment, can make it into inner boot. If inner cabin boot also torn, missing or seal broken. It then allows, air from engine bat, into cabin. If ones has exhaust manifold leak, it can be dangerous.

 

[AEC]

The boot you see on outside. Wraps inside also, around #1 intermediate shafts. The boots' inside area, is almost always tron. As yours is.
View attachment 3738507
Has no direct effect on steering. But we've two concerns:
1) With VGRS systems, boot keeps moisture and dust out. The VGRS actuator (#1 intermediate shaft)
2) Fumes, heat and outside air (winter summer) from engine compartment, can make it into inner boot. If inner cabin boot also torn, missing or seal broken. It then allows into cabin. If ones has exhaust manifold leak, it can be dangerous.

Good info, I’m replacing it this week not sure how long it’s been like this?

I can also feel the pop on the cabin side of the steering shaft so I’ll take that boot off ( I can feel it with my hand on that boot) and have a look as well, maybe something with that joint in there

 

[2001LC]

BTW: Do not just use, P/N of seal I pictures above. Use you're VIN # to get P/N.

 

[AEC]

BTW: Do not just use, P/N of seal I pictures above. Use you're VIN # to get P/N.

Yep double checked, it's the correct number for mine