Sticky windows (1 Viewer)

[Dan Skye]

We all know the windows get sticky overtime and the obvious cure is to replace the guides....
now a schmuck like me without much money or Mechanical know how, can’t help but wonder isn’t there some type of lube that’ll work to get the things moving again??
anyone have any success lubing their way out of this “sticky situation” as it were? Thanks guys

 

[Heckraiser]

Replacing the window runs doesn't require any mechanical know how (have to turn a few screws to get the door cards off). But you do have to pay for the window runs. I haven't tried any sort of lubricant for this. And frankly after replacing my window runs, I think my problem has more to do with a tired window motor than anything else.

 

[Kernal]

Try some searches for the key words: slow windows, been discussed a lot.
Basically new rubber glass runs and a new motor will solve the problem.

 

[unclegit]

What's the best current source for window motors ?

I've done the runs and it basically had no impact on window speed.

 

[Kernal]

The motors move slower and produce less torque with age, likely a combination of weak magnets, dried up lube on the bushings, and plastic gear teeth that get worn. Some people have found bad grounds or a bad switch. IME if the motor is making more noise, growling, it's on the way out.

I've tried to bring a couple of motors back to life by servicing them, ie: cleaned up the armature, lubed the bushings, removed the old hard grease and replaced with a light bodied grease, put it all back together. They still ran slower by themselves and when hooked back up to the regulator didn't have the same amount of power as a new motor. Lubing the rubber glass runs may buy you some time.

A worn/damaged/dragging/off-track roller wheel in the regulator arm can also contribute to slow movement. Recently had a roller come off the track causing a regulator arm to get bent 90 degrees (I may have helped when I pulled the glass up manually).

OEM window lift motors are pricey, with a discount, ~$250, in comparison the Dorman motor with a limited lifetime warranty is good deal at $60
(Made in Korea, not Chyna ).

 

[voodu3]

This might help til you get to replacing runs and motors etc. slow & sticking windows, my solution for 1994 LC

 

[MrMikeyG]

Didn't someone try "hopped up" motors from the RC world? There are a lot of threads on this. people have also removed, cleaned and re-installed their old runs with limited success.

 

[retrofive]

All the above true, but could pull the door card off and check the grease in the scissor metal lift, that stuff get old and stiff as well.

 

[Dan Skye]

The motors move slower and produce less torque with age, likely a combination of weak magnets, dried up lube on the bushings, and plastic gear teeth that get worn. Some people have found bad grounds or a bad switch. IME if the motor is making more noise, growling, it's on the way out.

I've tried to bring a couple of motors back to life by servicing them, ie: cleaned up the armature, lubed the bushings, removed the old hard grease and replaced with a light bodied grease, put it all back together. They still ran slower by themselves and when hooked back up to the regulator didn't have the same amount of power as a new motor. Lubing the rubber glass runs may buy you some time.

A worn/damaged/dragging/off-track roller wheel in the regulator arm can also contribute to slow movement. Recently had a roller come off the track causing a regulator arm to get bent 90 degrees (I may have helped when I pulled the glass up manually).

OEM window lift motors are pricey, with a discount, ~$250, in comparison the Dorman motor with a limited lifetime warranty is good deal at $60
(Made in Korea, not Chyna ).

Hey thanks ,I appreciate you taking the time.most helpful!cheers
Dan

 

[Dave 2000]

The problem does stem from the door rubbers. First the rubber hardens and cannot 'get out of the way' of the glass as it moves. The contacts in the switches start to burn up, the armatures/brushes burn up as the motor turns ever more slowly drawing more current. Add in the age of the wiring which has built up resistance and there you have it.

If you can get the rubbers replaced when you notice the windows are slowing then your good to go, cold weather being the first sign of impending doom so check them out then, you will save yourself a lot of time and money.

I am an AC lover so my windows are rarely used summer or winter but, in the winter they barely move and on the odd occasion they actually stop if it is cold enough, in the summer (rubbers are softer) they zip up and down with no issues.

Will I ever replace the rubbers? Sure, but it is waaay down the list ATM.

Regards

Dave

 

[Dan Skye]

Thanks Dave appreciate the advice!

 

[AndrewInf]

Almost a decade ago when I got my cruiser all the windows were slow and one of the rear windows wouldn't go back up without some hands-on assistance.

Someone here recommended the 3M silicone paste stuff (like this Amazon product ASIN B005RNEH5O) and it was a quick cheap fix for my issues. Windows all worked great immediately after a few up/down cycles.

I've had to re-lube them once or twice when they start getting slow every few years, not a big deal.

A few tips:

• Only grease the vertical parts of the runs, i.e. the back run of the front windows and the front/back of the passenger windows.
• There's no need to lube the top of the window frame, it'll just mean there will be paste on the top of your windows when you roll them down, which will just get on your arm when you throw it up on the window sill.
• Try to wipe off as much of the excess as possible once you've exercised the windows up and down a few times otherwise it'll leave marks your arm/shirt sleeves (window runs are generally filthy anyway). It's possible to keep the deep sticky part of the runs well lubed without getting silicone/filth on your arm under normal use.

This stuff also worked on my sliding rear windows which were totally frozen up from the PO never using them for 15 years. That took a lot more effort because of how they tend to bind up but I eventually got them sliding freely without having to replace the runs.

TL;DR: Try lubing them, it's cheap and I'm 10 years past "I think I need new runs" with the same old runs and no regrets.

 

[Dan Skye]

Thanks appreciate it !be well!

 

[kuruzaa]

I'm currently in the process of replacing my runs. I did the rear passenger no problem but the rear driver doesn't want to go down the final 3-4 inches on both sides of the door. Any ideas on what the issue may be? I've lubed the run and rubber with windex and with a lot of soapy water but this thing doesn't want to go down..

 

[TomH]

The 3M silicone paste works well. Be sure to clean the runs first and then follow @AndrewInf advice and the windows will work much better. I've also used it on the sunroof rubber and it reduced sunroof noise a lot. It's also a good idea to clean the door seal rubber and wipe it down too.

 

[cheeese]

NAPA Silglide is probably similar, I used that on my sunroof and it dramatically improved the smoothness and speed of the old runs.

 

[Dave 2000]

NAPA Silglide is probably similar, I used that on my sunroof and it dramatically improved the smoothness and speed of the old runs.

I have not used this on the sun roof runners as I thought if it is damp/wet/slippery it may get clogged with dust if your driving with it open. I have always used candle wax, works great and dust does not stick to it.

regards

Dave

 

[tacocat]

I rebuilt all of my motors. The grease inside the gears turns to wax. I used Park Bicycle grease to lube the gears. It's pretty light in viscosity and is very weather resistant. I also cleaned the electrical parts with aerosol electric spray and dumped out the loose carbon dust. They're still a half second slower than the Dorman motor I have in the passenger side, but my windows work fairly quick and are reliable in the winter.

 

[Cruzerman]

So what is the proper grease for the window motors? Is the bicycle grease that tacocat suggested good or are there better greases to use? If I do this, I don't want to go back in soon. TIA.

 

[DieselEd]

If you have not money to buy new parts (doesn't matter what parts) follow these general rules:

1. If something makes noise, moves slowly or does not move at all. Something is not right. Do not force it to work!
2. Remove the part from the truck.
3. Disassemble the part CAREFULLY as far as possible. Some parts become brittle over time or can be damaged if you are not careful.
4. If it is a metal part and you see rust stains in the moving parts (bushing area aso), try electrolysis (cheap method to properly derust metal).
OR
Clean it with the good old metal brush and PROPER chemical (some parts do not like chemicals, do your research).
5. If there is any grease or lube left on the part, do it the right way and remove it completly.
6. Repaint the part where it is required for rust protection
6. Lube everything with the RIGHT lube and RIGHT ammount. Use the right tools for the application, surringes, gloves, qtips... WD40 is usually not the right way.
Rubber = silicone based grease
Metal Bushes = Grease, I like MOS2
Spaces where it is difficult to disassemble (hingees) = ATF Fluid
If parts have a specification from the manufacturer, usually it's worth to just use the right stuff. Engineers thought about that trucks for several years.

I usually disassemble most moving parts every 2 years in road use.

For rubber I usually carefully disassemble everything, let it soak and warm water (NOT HOT!). Throw it in the washing machine (use a programm that is not harsh, ask your wife lol).