Sticky ignition with when cold out

[backwoodsman]

I've noticed my ignition switch is difficult to turn, sticky feeling when it's cold out. I've only had this truck since July and now the weather has changed and it has become noticeable. I did a search and only found a few posts but the all said they replaced the switch to solve the problem. It doesn't seem like it's worn because it only occurs cold. I didn't want to spray anything (WD40...) into the key hole until I asked the my cruiser brethren....Thanks for the help

EDIT: I can't edit the title, so apologizes for the error. It should read ' Sticky ignition when cold out'....I should stop drinking beer so early

 

[gregnash]

I have the same issue. Interested in seeing what the outcome is on this..

 

[Elbert]

i have the same problem...as temps lower the key gets incredibly hard to turn.

 

[gregnash]

Wonder if a little lock mechanism graphite would work? Think I have some at home but temps are up to the 70s today.

 

[Spike Strip]

Just spray some lock lube (graphite) in the cylinder and see if that helps. If not, there's the electrical switch behind the lock cylinder that's lubed with grease. Switch is separate from the lock cylinder and not accessible unless you remove it. After 50,000 years the lube in it gets a little dry and gummy. Some have had luck taking that switch apart and re-greasing it (dielectric), but there are also contacts in the switch that wear and are most likely worn out.

Aftermarket available for around $75.

 

[tag3]

So, have not found a post stating a remedy for this.
Guess that means tomorrow when it is cold out I'm pulling the plastic off and seeing what will work and update. Turn signal stalk is also slow and stiff. Guessing the grease is just a little stiff and a quick squirt of a lighter lube to thin out the old lube will fix.
Will let all know in the afternoon tomorrow.

 

[dbleon]

Nice bump tag... I will be waiting to see what you find. I'm thinking maybe pull the tumbler and soak in electric parts solvent. Then regrease with dielectric....

My turn signal stalk also needs some "help" doest want to turn off with some left turns. Assume it's gunked in there too.

Good luck and post up.

 

[gregnash]

Definitely post up what you do. Mine is still sticky when it is cold out. Did see at HD last night they sell an electrical degreaser but was like $12 for the can and I was on a different mission.

 

[tag3]

Ok, here is the first try.
Used a little WD-40, I hate this stuff, in a squeeze bottle. Dripped down the key release knob from above. Did loosen up and turns right now.
On the signal stalk, put some on the ball bearing on the pass.(right for our down under folks) and it loosened up.
Did the same to the hazard switch and the tilt mechanism.
Thinking that the grease has lost some lubricity and needed something to "grease" it up for lack of a better term.
Only took off the top shroud, also.
Will update tomorrow evening, yea gotta go back to work.

 

[tag3]

Well this morning the key turned with no problem. Did not even notice the lack of drag. Took me till starting the second time to pay attention.
The turn signal stalk had that old familiar snap back after turning the corner.
Of course it is supposed to warm up and will have to wait till cooler temps to see how long lasts.

Overall 2 thumbs up.

As an aside. Some one try Tri-flow please. It smells better than WD-40.

 

[tag3]

Everything is going good on day 2.

 

[tag3]

Like a champ. Well later then.

 

[doug720]

WD40 is a solvent, so it likely softened the old grease inside switch. I did the same on mine several years ago, and it's still works fine.

If you use WD40, just use a little. Other options for lite lubrication are Tri-Flow and LPS. Both are more lube and less solvent than WD40.

 

[dbleon]

I have found that dub d attracts dirt/fines. That was why I was thinking parts solvent that does not leave a residue..then regrease proper. But I'd the dub d works long term then bingo good to go.

Thanks for posting tag.

Cheers

 

[Spike Strip]

The WD washes the grease out and the switch wears faster (it's prolly worn out now), and you'll start having starting issues where you turn the key and nothing...

Replace the electrical switch. It's cheap, Chinese ebay ones are like $50, and about 30 mins.

 

[dbleon]

Spike is it an issue with the contacts, our the tumbler mechanism? I honestly have never disected an ignition so forgive if stupid question.

Thanks

 

[Spike Strip]

There's a switch with a cable behind the tumber. A tang that sticks out the end of the tumbler fits into the switch and turns the switch when you turn the key. Switch has the contacts for starter/run/aux. There's grease in the switch which gets old and hard and the contact wear out after a billion cycles. Replace now while they're still available and reasonable quality. NLA Toyota.

Any year 81-87 will work, but I think after 85 there's an additon to the cable for the key buzzer. So earlier design will work but no key buzzer. That what's I have in mine cuz I like to leave the doors open with radio on and HATE the buzzer. You could also just shoot the buzzer.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/CS1049/02018.oap?year=1986&make=Toyota&model=Land+Cruiser&vi=1276556&ck=Search_02018_1276556_3759&pt=02018&ppt=C0039

 

[dbleon]

Thanks for the explain spike.

So it could just be a problem with the tumbler mechanism being gunked? Can separate and clean/lube just the tumbler?

 

[St Joe Crusier]

I'm having the same issues, could you post some pic when your in there it always helps to have a visual.
Thanks

 

[gregnash]

I'm having the same issues, could you post some pic when your in there it always helps to have a visual.
Thanks

This please!

I have been debating on getting the whole set of tumblers/lock replaced on the truck as they are still available from Toyota. The set for the doors and ignition is not cheap but would be easier than trying to have them individually rekeyed. Back is a different story from what I understand though.