Anyone have one for sale, know of vendor or commercial equivalent to the above? Was planning on going with small under dash unit as a temporary fix and look for an auto electronic specialist upon return to USA. Any input appreciated greatly!
Stepper resistors 24V-12V 79BJ40 B series motor and 12V system (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter El Gringo Loco
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I can try to help you with what you are trying to accomplish. Was this an OEM piece you are trying to replace? Do you have a picture of it?
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- #3
I will send you a drawing or a link to a drawing when I get to the shop tomorrow.
Thanks very much.
- Thread starter
- #4
- Thread starter
- #5
Yes, it's an OEM part. It's actually a "stopper resistor"
www.megazip.net
Top of 2nd drawing part#83145P
Hope this helps.
Thanks again
Chuck
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Top of 2nd drawing part#83145P
Hope this helps.
Thanks again
Chuck
It looks like this is to reduce the voltage to 12V so that your fuel and temperature gauges work?
The link below seems to address this 30Ohm power resistor.
It is pretty beefy because it needs to dissipate the same amount of energy which is used in your instruments (so it will get fairly hot).
You could better replace it with a DC-DC step down converter which will dissipate much less heat, use less current overall, and give you a much more stable voltage for your instruments.
Better still; if your 7V regulator in the fuel gauge is past its best (It seems like quite a common fault in these gauges); you could just step straight down from 24V to 7V and supply it directly I guess? Anyone tried that?
forum.ih8mud.com
The link below seems to address this 30Ohm power resistor.
It is pretty beefy because it needs to dissipate the same amount of energy which is used in your instruments (so it will get fairly hot).
You could better replace it with a DC-DC step down converter which will dissipate much less heat, use less current overall, and give you a much more stable voltage for your instruments.
Better still; if your 7V regulator in the fuel gauge is past its best (It seems like quite a common fault in these gauges); you could just step straight down from 24V to 7V and supply it directly I guess? Anyone tried that?
aftermarket resistors for 24v cluster
After cleaning and testing my gauges and still no luck on getting the temp and fuel gauges to work, i decided to dig deeper on MUD and found that i have no resistor on the back of my instrument cluster. ( this is for a 24v BJ41) Toyota part# 83145P-60010..no longer available! I want to start...
forum.ih8mud.com
83145-60010? Dropping resistor for the 24v cluster? There is some discussion on here about that from @bj40green and others. Looks to be a 30 ohm 20 watt wire wound resistor.
A simple lm7807 3 pin regulator should work. It has 1A capacity and will take up to 35v in. I have never done this on a 24v cluster so procede at your own risk.
I use a 7808 regulator with additional diode to get near 7v on my 12v cluster because that's what I had laying around.
I use a 7808 regulator with additional diode to get near 7v on my 12v cluster because that's what I had laying around.
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks for the responseIt looks like this is to reduce the voltage to 12V so that your fuel and temperature gauges work?
The link below seems to address this 30Ohm power resistor.
It is pretty beefy because it needs to dissipate the same amount of energy which is used in your instruments (so it will get fairly hot).
You could better replace it with a DC-DC step down converter which will dissipate much less heat, use less current overall, and give you a much more stable voltage for your instruments.
Better still; if your 7V regulator in the fuel gauge is past its best (It seems like quite a common fault in these gauges); you could just step straight down from 24V to 7V and supply it directly I guess? Anyone tried that?
aftermarket resistors for 24v cluster
After cleaning and testing my gauges and still no luck on getting the temp and fuel gauges to work, i decided to dig deeper on MUD and found that i have no resistor on the back of my instrument cluster. ( this is for a 24v BJ41) Toyota part# 83145P-60010..no longer available! I want to start...
Do you drive the temperature and fuel gauge directly with that (bypassing the old internal regulator)?
Fitted it internal to the fuel gauge?
Seems like a good upgrade looking at my fluctuating needles.
Yeah, hooking that onto 24v means you'd be dissipating 4x as much heat - maybe need a bigger can and a heat sink..
Yes the 7808 works fine. I screwed it to the back of the cluster for a heat sink.
- Thread starter
- #12
Here is the drawing for the stopper resistor.
- Thread starter
- #13
Can you please send me a link to where I can purchase the 7808 and any other materials need to make the conversion. All the other gauges (oil pressure, fuel, and temperature) run directly off the 12V power directly.
Thanks.
This is a great forum!
Chuck
Here is a 7V one from Texas instruments (last 2 digits are voltage). You can add some capacitors as shown on the datasheet, or watch any of the videos online for 7800 series regulators.
Beware though!
At 12v you are dissipating (12v-7v=5v) × around 0.5A = 2.5W (easily dissipated into the metal instrument case).
On a 24V truck this changes to 24-7=17v. × 0.5A = 8.5w. Much more likely to overheat.
That's why a switching regulator is much better at 24V but you're probably just looking for a nice simple bolt on module to fix your problem easily I guess.
Beware though!
At 12v you are dissipating (12v-7v=5v) × around 0.5A = 2.5W (easily dissipated into the metal instrument case).
On a 24V truck this changes to 24-7=17v. × 0.5A = 8.5w. Much more likely to overheat.
That's why a switching regulator is much better at 24V but you're probably just looking for a nice simple bolt on module to fix your problem easily I guess.
- Thread starter
- #15
Mines a Jeep BJ40. You guys are f$%king AWESOME!!!Here is a 7V one from Texas instruments (last 2 digits are voltage). You can add some capacitors as shown on the datasheet, or watch any of the videos online for 7800 series regulators.
Beware though!
At 12v you are dissipating (12v-7v=5v) × around 0.5A = 2.5W (easily dissipated into the metal instrument case).
On a 24V truck this changes to 24-7=17v. × 0.5A = 8.5w. Much more likely to overheat.
That's why a switching regulator is much better at 24V but you're probably just looking for a nice simple bolt on module to fix your problem easily I guess.
