Steering wheel lock during towing (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 28, 2013
Threads
1
Messages
2
This is my first post to the site so forgive me if I don't understand the abbreviations or technical terminology. I just purchased a 74 fj 40 with 13,000, 113,000, 213,000, ect.... Miles on it( don't know because the odometer rolls at 99,999. It is totally stock with original motor. I have put a new carb(weber 38/38) which I don't know how to tune, another story. Anyways I just got done towing it down to a buddy's house to replace all the seals and bearings in the front end. When I turn past a certain point the steering counter turns the opposite way all the way to the stops and doesn't go back until I walk back and return it manually. It has a draw bar that somebody put on it before I bought it. I ended up tying the steering wheel off so this wouldn't happen(pain in the ***). My question is what could be causing this to happen, and how do people get away from this aside from loading it on a trailer? I see people towing them behind motor homes all the time, which they can't even see their towed vehicle, so I assume they are not having this problem.any help would be appreciated. Here is a picture of the set up

image-4099692884.jpg
image-4099692884.jpg
 
Check the caster and toe-in. If it has longer aftermarket shackles without corrective shims, it likely has negative caster (just a guess 'cause I can't really tell from the photo).

However, you're not the first guy to tie down the steering wheel.
 
use bungie cord to return steering wheel back to center. when flat towing the wheels need to be able to turn (side to side).
 
Thanks. What's the length of the stock shackles? You also said that there are corrective shims where do they go and how do you know if you have the right caster?
 
Pig,
My 78 did exactly the same thing. Not only irritating, but dangerous. I checked the toe and caster and they are at factory specs. Tie down the wheel when flat towing or put it on a flat bed. I keep the tie-down strap loose enough that the wheel can turn a little less than 90 degrees, but no more or it will careen off the wrong way.

I think the hitch extension from my truck to underneath my camper acts as a big tiller and when the front wheels of the tow vehicle turn left, the stern of the truck and camper go right and the hitch extension goes even further right. This pulls the front of the 40 the wrong way in the beginning of a turn (usually right turns at intersections, because left turns in the US are wider) and once it starts, it can't correct quickly and goes to lock and stays there.
Tie down the wheel.
 
Thanks. What's the length of the stock shackles? You also said that there are corrective shims where do they go and how do you know if you have the right caster?
like Dick Thompson says, caster and toe-in. your stock shackles should be 2.5" from pin to pin. the shims would be in between the springs and perches. as far as i know the alignment shop could tell you what your castor #'s are. Welcome :flipoff2:
 
I tried to flat tow mine numerous times & had the same problem. Tried prior to tear down with engine & body, after engine & body removed, then after new suspension on powder coated frame, w/ new tie rod ends, new OME lift kit, tow in checked, etc. - same problem. Finally said Hell with it & bought a tow dolly - problem solved.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom