steering - repair, improvements, what I learned (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter lovetoski
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- #62
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Quick question: I just finished doing a tie-rod end replacement, alignment, knuckle rebuild (10lbs bearing preload), OME suspension install on my fj62. Running k02 33x10.5 tires. I still have a ton of slop in the steering and the truck feels very floaty, especially at highway speeds. My power steering pump doesn't appear to be leaking but I'll probably rebuild it soon. The steering doesn't seem to have the same rebound or return when compared to my 2nd gen tacoma. I know it never will, but the return is almost non-existent and I have to have constant input on the steering.
What would be the solution to my steering slop and floating? Drag end adjustment? Steering box rebuild? Forgive my ignorance, but will that mess up my alignment? I'm used to motorcycles and that world doesn't have the same issues
240k miles on these parts, btw.
What would be the solution to my steering slop and floating? Drag end adjustment? Steering box rebuild? Forgive my ignorance, but will that mess up my alignment? I'm used to motorcycles and that world doesn't have the same issues
240k miles on these parts, btw.
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Lack of return-to-center could be lack of caster (or other alignment issues). You should get it professionally aligned. Also, your knuckles should easily swivel back and forth after your knuckle rebuild (you'll have to pull the TRE at each end to get a good sense).
Steering box adjustment: With the truck wheels pointing straight ahead, have a buddy gently saw the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the steering box. If there is a delay (play) between the input shaft movement and output shaft (Pitman arm shaft) movement, you have some play in your box. Search some threads, and gently/delicately adjust your box and test drive it. Do not hork down on the adjustment screw, and remember that most box wear is in the 'straight ahead' position, so if you remove ALL play in the straight-ahead position, your steering box WILL likely bind at the full-turn positions (left or right). Be judicious about this and find a happy medium.
My FJ62 with 256K miles has all the tightness/lack of slop I would expect to see in a well-functioning recirc-ball steering system, and the PS box has not been rebuilt - just carefully adjusted. I have new TREs, but all else is original. It will never feel like rack and pinion, but should not have huge play and no return-to-center.
Steering box adjustment: With the truck wheels pointing straight ahead, have a buddy gently saw the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the steering box. If there is a delay (play) between the input shaft movement and output shaft (Pitman arm shaft) movement, you have some play in your box. Search some threads, and gently/delicately adjust your box and test drive it. Do not hork down on the adjustment screw, and remember that most box wear is in the 'straight ahead' position, so if you remove ALL play in the straight-ahead position, your steering box WILL likely bind at the full-turn positions (left or right). Be judicious about this and find a happy medium.
My FJ62 with 256K miles has all the tightness/lack of slop I would expect to see in a well-functioning recirc-ball steering system, and the PS box has not been rebuilt - just carefully adjusted. I have new TREs, but all else is original. It will never feel like rack and pinion, but should not have huge play and no return-to-center.
Thanks for the response, Steve! I've had it professionally aligned twice, now. Once after the new tie rod ends and then again after the OME suspension install, so that's pretty good to go.
I did a little more research after my post and I think adjusted what you're referring to. I played with the adjuster bolt on top of the steering box and that took out pretty much all my slop/slack but I'm almost all the way in on that adjuster now. It's substantially better now, in that area.
The floating still remains, though. It still needs a lot of input from me to maintain a straight line and if I hit a bump or hole, the steering will pull towards that real quick. Kind of scary if you aren't expecting it.
Would the floating issue be tires? I know my 33" k02s are pretty much near the end of their life.
Side note: Is it worth me rebuilding the steering box? I can get a rebuilt OEM one for about $400 or just do it myself.
Bald or wide tires, or ones that are grossly overinflated, can cause poor handling. From what I read, West Texas Offroad is the place to get a steering box rebuilt at a reasonable price. Sounds like you have dialed in the steering box adjustment, so that's good.
It still needs a lot of input from me to maintain a straight line - this makes me wonder about your toe-in, and if the alignment was done correctly, but if the steering box is sketchy, maybe get that addressed first. Did your alignment shop provide a print-out of camber, caster, and toe? (they rarely do, unless you ask).
It still needs a lot of input from me to maintain a straight line - this makes me wonder about your toe-in, and if the alignment was done correctly, but if the steering box is sketchy, maybe get that addressed first. Did your alignment shop provide a print-out of camber, caster, and toe? (they rarely do, unless you ask).
They did. I get a chart of the before and after for the alignment. I was only about .5 of a degree off for toe-in and camber was normal. No adjustment on camber with the solid axels, right?
Thanks for the tips, I'll have to hit up Texas Offroad on the steering box!
Going to dig through tire threads now for that sweet spot, since I'm due for new rubber. I like the k02s at 33x10.5 but they may be a little wide.
- Thread starter
- #68
From what you've described (and replaced/repaired so far) I think Caster is worth looking at more closely. It's pretty common, even perhaps a best practice, to use 3 degree caster shims with OME or similar suspensions. Use the steel ones, not aluminum.
Practically, on these trucks, camber is built into the knuckle assembly by design and not adjustable. Unless it's way off, it's not worth pursuing. As lovetoski mentioned, caster is adjustable with shims and you can do it yourself and see what affect it has on return-to-center. Just study/learn the correct orientation for the shims (fat part forward or back).
Hey lovetoski, what's the issue with aluminum ones? I've got a set that I've been meaning to put on, though i did have some worries about dissimilar metal corrosion. Is that the problem?
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
They are made from cast aluminum and they brake
Hadn't considered the fact that you can shim the leafs. I'll do some research. I'll post the alignment results when I get home and find the sheet as well.
Grateful for all of you that have paved the path and for this thread. Can anyone recommend a Pro Alignment shop in Denver area?? Many Thanks!
