steering - repair, improvements, what I learned (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I wanted to use the gear puller for less potential damage to other parts of the system like the drag link ends and the pullman arm. I whacked at it some, but didn't like what was happening to other elements. I sprayed it with penetrating spray, but it only sat for about 2 hrs before I started working on it.
 
Steve-O said:
Stop buying from MAF.

Why shouldnt he? I see posts from you directed to us all of the time on here, so whats our deal? We dont bad mouth you, you were even once a customer of ours...

snippage>

I agree Steve-O, why shouldn't he stop buying from MAF? No good reason that I can think of. Experience is the best teacher, for starters - I used to be a MAF customer too but have learned from the experience and don't buy from the company anymore either, not that it matters to anyone but me. I dropped plenty of $$$ with MAF early on - clear back to 1977 and got tired of getting the runaround when it came to asking for informed customer service regarding products already bought and being considered for purchase - high compression pistons for a 3FE for one. What a ridiculous runaround that was. There are many places to buy quality Toyota parts from, both OEM and aftermarket and MAF has tried my patience too many times. Live and learn as David and others have.
 
Last edited:
zcruiser said:
I wanted to use the gear puller for less potential damage to other parts of the system like the drag link ends and the pullman arm. I whacked at it some, but didn't like what was happening to other elements. I sprayed it with penetrating spray, but it only sat for about 2 hrs before I started working on it.

Since i'm speaking my mind, pickle forks are just plain stupid for Cruiser applications. Get an OTC 7315A puller for less than $35 and never have to fuss with any, including the damper, steering joint again. It won't take no for an answer and is small and safe to boot.
 
Last edited:
overhanger said:
Since i'm speaking my mind, pickle forks are just plain stupid for Cruiser applications. Get an OTC 7315A puller for less than $35 and never have to fuss with any, including the damper, steering joint again. It won't take no for an answer and is small and safe to boot.

Excellent! I'll probably spend that much in labor tomorrow getting the shop to pop it off. Lowest price I've found, tho is $39.50 at The Tool Warehouse. Have any idea where I can get it cheaper?

OTC-7315A.jpg
 
overhanger said:
Since i'm speaking my mind, pickle forks are just plain stupid for Cruiser applications.


That being the case, then this comment is also "just plain stupid" ...for cruiser applications. Just speaking my mind. :rolleyes:

.
 
zcruiser said:
Excellent! I'll probably spend that much in labor tomorrow getting the shop to pop it off. Lowest price I've found, tho is $39.50 at The Tool Warehouse. Have any idea where I can get it cheaper?

OTC-7315A.jpg

in my case .. good hammer .. and :grinpimp:

P.S. I'm so poor to buy those tools .. :D and are less funiest ..
 
Tapage said:
in my case .. good hammer .. and :grinpimp:

P.S. I'm so poor to buy those tools .. :D and are less funiest ..

I tried a hammer and punch a few times, but didn't think I was making much headway, besides busting a knuckle or two. Too much fun!
 
Pickle fork

The pickle fork worked for me in getting the steering stabilzer off. What is the down side? I suspect that I have hit a lot of bumps that were worse on the rest of the linkage than the blows of the hammer.
 
nice wright up thanks for the info:beer:
 
It seems that pickle fork users are a sensitive bunch which sorta surprises me as they like to beat on things with a BFH. I'm not trying to be a snob but have any of you pickle fork lovers tried a puller such as the OTC 7315a? If stupid was too harsh a word for you, please forgive me, but the purpose built puller works much better for the purpose of separating a pressed joint just the way a hydraulic press works better than a BFH and a brass drift. They both work, one just happens to work better.
 
Yes, it's always great when the hero come along AFTER you need him. ;)

Boys, this isn't supposed to split us into two camps... pickle forkers or non pickle f'ers :rolleyes: , it's all good info, but more importantly, it's all in fun.
If i had one when i needed it, sure i'd use it. :grinpimp:

.
 
zcruiser said:
I tried a hammer and punch a few times, but didn't think I was making much headway, besides busting a knuckle or two. Too much fun!

I thought mine maybe are more easy than you .. I changed mine maybe 3 or 4 times since I have the TLC.
 
Tapage said:
I thought mine maybe are more easy than you .. I changed mine maybe 3 or 4 times since I have the TLC.

Must be, of course the first time there's always some blood involved... The more often you do it, the easier it gets... or put another way:

"It's only kinky the first time you do it."
 
zcruiser said:
Must be, of course the first time there's always some blood involved...

hahahaha I hope bood from your hands not from your TLC .. :D
 
I just rented the tie rod/ball joint/whatever puller kit from Kragen and used the beefiest puller in the bunch. Cost: $5 (if I remember correctly) Funny thing is, they don't sell that particular puller separately. I have seen it in catalogs for a bit over $50.
 
I bought a pickle fork from harbor freight...total junk the fork kept bending did nothing. LUCAS power steeering stop leak worked on my truck....no leaks or problems
 
I bought a nice, stout pickle fork from NAPA that has a very narrow spread and it works great. Its way better than the pos advance auto one i got last year, that one was junk. The napa tool is heavy as hell and pops everything off cleanly.

-Matt
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom