Steering Rack leak - Rubber bushes changed to aluminum

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100TD, what side is leaking? We recently resealed the selector valve (where the steering shaft goes into the rack) on the rack on a truck that had 270k miles on it. The sides were still fine. Make sure this is not what you are looking at. The selector valve is on the DS side.
 
On the passenger side boot there is oil all along the bottom of the boot, none on the top and no oil anywhere else near or far, only along the bottom of the boot but it is not leaking from the clamp so it is either permeating the boot or the boot has minute cracks in it. I will not know the how or why until I get around to pulling the boot tierod etc. It is not that bad but I don't like leaks any I am stumped as to why it is leaking as I can't see any holes in the boot. Maybe I will degrease and pressure wash and do a wait and see and see how it turns out?

Thanks very much for your input Christo.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but the steering system is a high pressure system and a serious leak would manifest itself with a decent volume of fluid? Yes or no?
 
calamaridog said:
Correct me if I'm wrong but the steering system is a high pressure system and a serious leak would manifest itself with a decent volume of fluid? Yes or no?
Click to expand...

A serious leak YES.
Most hydraulic systems run high pressure but they should not leak. If they are starting to leak then the seals/pistons/rings/bushes and other components may be worn/pitted/corroded/torn and become a problem. I like to fix things at home with tools and available parts, not let them fester and fail in the middle of nowhere. Yes small leaks/weeps may not be a sign of imminent failure, but I would like to establish where the actual leak is and what is causing it, and find out who else has had problems, what were they, and what was the cause.
 
Dan,

To answer your question - "Wonder where the two smaller bushings and then the two metal bushings go?"

To the right of your diagram - next to the red arrow you drew. There are 2 nuts/bolts - part of the rack has these rubber bushings on it. These are not "replaceable" they are part of the rack itself. So when those bushings wear out, you have to replace the whole thing! :eek:


http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/fulcrumCat/ (posted by Calamaridog) is another option but that is where the aluminum bushings that Siglo mentioned goes to.

The big rubber bushing you pointed is easily replace without removing the rack - you will need a pretty long extension to get to the bolts from the top.

The steering rack on my truck is moving around too. Instead of fixing it, I think I'd rather do a solid axle swap :idea:
 
i4c4lo said:
Dan,

To answer your question - "Wonder where the two smaller bushings and then the two metal bushings go?"

To the right of your diagram - next to the red arrow you drew. There are 2 nuts/bolts - part of the rack has these rubber bushings on it. These are not "replaceable" they are part of the rack itself. So when those bushings wear out, you have to replace the whole thing! :eek:


http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/fulcrumCat/ (posted by Calamaridog) is another option but that is where the aluminum bushings that Siglo mentioned goes to.

The big rubber bushing you pointed is easily replace without removing the rack - you will need a pretty long extension to get to the bolts from the top.

The steering rack on my truck is moving around too. Instead of fixing it, I think I'd rather do a solid axle swap :idea:
Click to expand...


Thanks Amando: I spoke to Christo yesterday and he thinks it is best to stay with OEM or poly bushing/grommets rather than a non-isolating/shock absorbing metal grommet. I was able to get the two bolts that hold the cap to the frame that contain the large "grommet" out. Got an OEM grommet on order...just going to replace that for now as the other parts of the rack are not giving me problems right now. It's a $25 part...if it lasts 30,000-50,000 miles I can certainly live with that. Also from others I have spoken to most newer Toyota vehicles use this design and the large grommet is a frequently replaced item on higher mileage vehicles...
 
100 TD said:
I like to fix things at home with tools and available parts, not let them fester and fail in the middle of nowhere. Yes small leaks/weeps may not be a sign of imminent failure, but I would like to establish where the actual leak is and what is causing it, and find out who else has had problems, what were they, and what was the cause.
Click to expand...

I like to fix things at home, but after reading the FSM I suspect I would be at the edge of my wrenching abililty/patience on that one - Thus my reference to replacement. Figuring all this out before you are miles away from civilization, however, is a great idea. Doing it yourself is even better:cheers:
 
Yes Dan, your $25 OEM part may last a long time, but my imported Aussie polyurethane bushing also adds 5 HP. Besides, it's blue:flipoff2:
 
calamaridog said:
Yes Dan, your $25 OEM part may last a long time, but my imported Aussie polyurethane bushing also adds 5 HP. Besides, it's blue:flipoff2:
Click to expand...


I couldn't wait. But they would have matched the Fox shocks :grinpimp:.

How much are they landed stateside? ETA?
 
cdog: Did you get the steering rack bushings? FYI: I installed the new OEM PS side bushing...a 15-minute :banana: job and it steers like it's supposed to again :bounce::bounce::bounce:.
 
Spresso, I don't suppose you have a picture comparing a new bushing to a worn bushing.
 
hoser said:
Spresso, I don't suppose you have a picture comparing a new bushing to a worn bushing.
Click to expand...


Nope. The difference between the new and old "grommet" wasn't real obvious...there appeared to be some wear on the bottom of the grommet...apparently from sliding back and forth. And the new grommet was black instead of faded black (the grommet is made from a medium hardness rubber like material).
 
You just need a 3/8" flex ratchet and a 19mm socket to get the PS grommet cap off/on.
 
Thanks, I guess I'll jack my front end up and look for any play in the rack tomorrow. Or just spend $25 or whatever it costs and do it anyway. My 100 is almost at the 10 year/ 110k mark.
 
hoser said:
Thanks, I guess I'll jack my front end up and look for any play in the rack tomorrow. Or just spend $25 or whatever it costs and do it anyway. My 100 is almost at the 10 year/ 110k mark.
Click to expand...


The play is apparent when you push/pull at 9:00 & 3:00 on one tire/wheel while both wheels are in the air...but I imagine you already know that :). I had 1/2" side to side slop in mine. Answers why the darn thing had a wander on the highway :rolleyes:.
 
rack on the LX has been leaking for years, its more wet(DS boot) than a leak, the fluid level has not hardly gone down(I have never had to add fluid) so...untill something really goes bad.....I aint touching it :)
 
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