Steering Rack Boot (1 Viewer)

[LXJake93]

Hey! Figured out my steering rack boot on DS is split. Haven't been able to find any threads on replacing the boots. Is it just taking off the wheel/hub/etc., detaching the TRE and slipping on/off the boots? "While I'm in there" I guess I should do front wheel bearings, breaks, and rotors? Hope the calipers are still good!

Sway bar links have rotted so bad that they've disconnected - parts on the way with new sway bar bushings. She's got a lot of bumps, clunks and slaps!

Upper and lower ball joins are shot, too - thinking of ordering the OE "Front End Kit" off of Rock Auto. Has anyone done that before?

I guess this goes to show how reliable a '99 LX still is despite these issues

 

[badlander]

I just replaced my rack boots and it was not as easy as I had expected. The new boots are harder rubber than the originals, almost like plastic, and as a result, quite difficult to get over the lip on the end of the rack. Even after lubing with silicone grease it was still a PITA. Then getting the clamp clipped without damaging it was another issue since the plasticy boot doesn't want to compress. I ended up making a special tool to get the clamp clipped.
Also, the outer tie rod end needs to be removed to change the boot so if you are not careful in maintaining it's original position when removing and reinstalling it you may need to get an alignment done. Just a heads up.....
Not that difficult of a job, just frustrating.
Good luck.

 

[LXJake93]

My next question is: do I need to take apart the entire wheel assembly just to do this job? If so, I'll wait until I order all the parts for that, too.

 

[thebeedeegee]

I just did my ball joints ( get the kit from @cruiseroutfit ) and replaced a torn boot on the driver side. It is kind of a pain in the ass for sure.

You need to at the very least, remove wheel- remove caliper (actually may be able to leave it)- remove steering knuckle from hub- remove tie rod end (count turns and measure to jam nut). I measured and counted turns and still needed an alignment afterwards. It wasn't very far out but it was noticeable

Then slide the new boot up and over the inner tie rod end. It was a pain to get it seated on the lip of the rack ( i used a Febest boot ordered from Partsouq). For the clamp I just ended up using a metal zip tie since I had to mangle the old one to get it off and couldn't find a good replacement. The OEM clamps, well I'm not sure how the hell you would get the proper tool up in there to tighten it.

 

[thebeedeegee]

My next question is: do I need to take apart the entire wheel assembly just to do this job? If so, I'll wait until I order all the parts for that, too.

No, just the take the wheel off and remove the outer tie rod from the back of the main knuckle. It's 2 19mm bolts I think. then the hub assembly should rotate back out of the way so you can unscrew the tie rod.

 

[LXJake93]

@thebeedeegee perfect! Feeling prepared. Not ready for the commitment of internal hub assemblies etc. though, just gonna save that for a rainy day.

So, just mark on the tie rod how far in it is before unscrewing it? She needs an alignment anyway so this will just force me to take her in.

 

[thebeedeegee]

@thebeedeegee perfect! Feeling prepared. Not ready for the commitment of internal hub assemblies etc. though, just gonna save that for a rainy day.

So, just mark on the tie rod how far in it is before unscrewing it? She needs an alignment anyway so this will just force me to take her in.

It may be more difficult to reach with the hub still on. I had mine off already replacing ball joints, but I think it should still be doable.

Marking where the jam nut is set with a paint marker is probably a great idea.....I can't believe I didn't think of that when I was in there

 

[badlander]

No need to remove hub or caliper. Be prepared to deal with the clamp, though. You may want to just go ahead and get a narrow hose clamp ahead of time instead of trying to reattach the original style clamp. As I recall, normal width hose clamps would be too wide.
I wouldn't depend on a zip tie to keep water out if you plan on doing any water crossings or even deep puddlles. These boots need to be water tight to seal the rack and prevent failure from water intrusion.