Steering shaft firewall boot replacement (1 Viewer)

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I’ve been trying to track down a faint ticking noise I hear under moderate to heavy acceleration in my 05 LX470. I’ve had exhaust manifolds and gaskets replaced with OEM parts. That helped quiet it way down. I tighten my spark plugs- most of them had loosened up. Still need to fix a cracked coil pack stem- not sure if that’s making a noise under acceleration, but I could imagine there’s a good fireworks show in that tube. I’ve read a ripped firewall boot could help the injector ticking transmit into cabin. Tonight I took a look at my boot, and it is ripped. Anyone have any tips, tricks, advice on replacing the boot? Looks pretty tight to work down there. Maybe best way is through the fender well? Any advice appreciated.
 
I’ve been trying to track down a faint ticking noise I hear under moderate to heavy acceleration in my 05 LX470. I’ve had exhaust manifolds and gaskets replaced with OEM parts. That helped quiet it way down. I tighten my spark plugs- most of them had loosened up. Still need to fix a cracked coil pack stem- not sure if that’s making a noise under acceleration, but I could imagine there’s a good fireworks show in that tube. I’ve read a ripped firewall boot could help the injector ticking transmit into cabin. Tonight I took a look at my boot, and it is ripped. Anyone have any tips, tricks, advice on replacing the boot? Looks pretty tight to work down there. Maybe best way is through the fender well? Any advice appreciated.
Bumping this…anyone with VGRS replaced their firewall boot? Daunting task? Or, as simple as disconnecting the upper and lower intermediate shafts and slipping the new boot on? Access looks not so fun. Thanks in advance for anyone who has given this a go.
 
I doubt, replacing this seal will help with tick sound deadening!

Not to difficult. I combo through fender-well as well as come down from engine compartment. Bolts 24ft-lbf.

Warning:
  • Do not pound upward (toward steering wheel) on intermediate #1 (VRGS Actuator).
  • Avoid turning steering wheel while shafts disconnected. Turning to far, can bust the clock spring.

TBS requires, this seal be replaced, during snap ring recall. It actually, comes with the factory kit for the recall. But in the 4 LX's I've checked, none were.

This seal helps protect the VGRS actuator, form dust and water. It also helps seal out fumes from engine bay. Sure it may help a tiny bit, reduce engine sounds. But the VGSR (03-07 LX), has a large thick rubber boot and seal on top of it. This is attached to firewall inside the cabin. Large boot does much more, to seal out sounds.

Out of all I've looked, to see if snap ring recall work done. One had large inner boot cut open and it's top seal not seated. Along with engine bay side seal rip. It also had a cracked (common) exhaust manifold leak BK1. Exhaust fumes where getting into cabin, which is obviously very dangerous.
IMG_8414.JPEG
 
I doubt, replacing this seal will help with tick sound deadening!

Not to difficult. I combo through fender-well as well as come down from engine compartment. Bolts 24ft-lbf.

Warning:
  • Do not pound upward (toward steering wheel) on intermediate #1 (VRGS Actuator).
  • Avoid turning steering wheel while shafts disconnected. Turning to far, can bust the clock spring.

TBS requires, this seal be replaced, during snap ring recall. It actually, comes with the factory kit for the recall. But in the 4 LX's I've checked, none were.

This seal helps protect the VGRS actuator, form dust and water. It also helps seal out fumes from engine bay. Sure it may help a tiny bit, reduce engine sounds. But the VGSR (03-07 LX), has a large thick rubber boot and seal on top of it. This is attached to firewall inside the cabin. Large boot does much more, to seal out sounds.

Out of all I've looked, to see if snap ring recall work done. One had large inner boot cut open and it's top seal not seated. Along with engine bay side seal rip. It also had a cracked (common) exhaust manifold leak BK1. Exhaust fumes where getting into cabin, which is obviously very dangerous.
View attachment 3583166
Thank you. Could be why I hear some ticking under load…I have ripped boot on outside of firewall and the VGRS boot inside the firewall to cover VGRS actuator is no longer there. I’m guessing it was tossed when they did the snap ring recall maybe 8 or 10 years ago. To install a new boot that’s just inside the firewall, just disconnect the rubber steering shaft coupler (a couple of bolts just below the u-joint)? I say “just disconnect”, but I’m sure it will be a pain in the ass.

IMG_2598.jpeg
 
No! There is a bolt hidden by the inside remaining upper seal. It's another clamp force bolt at top of #1.

#1
IMG_3193.JPEG
 
Last edited:
Thank you. Could be why I hear some ticking under load…I have ripped boot on outside of firewall and the VGRS boot inside the firewall to cover VGRS actuator is no longer there. I’m guessing it was tossed when they did the snap ring recall maybe 8 or 10 years ago. To install a new boot that’s just inside the firewall, just disconnect the rubber steering shaft coupler (a couple of bolts just below the u-joint)? I say “just disconnect”, but I’m sure it will be a pain in the ass.

No! There is a bolt hidden by the inside upper seal remaining. It's another clamp force bolt at top of #1.

#1
View attachment 3583320
Got it! Thank you. That looks easier than the coupler. Also, I can find the big boot that covers VGRS actuator, but cannot find the outer boot that fastens to firewall inside engine compartment. Do you happen to know what diagram that would be in? I’m looking on partsouq- can’t find it. Also, do the clamps come with new boots?
 
Got it! Thank you. That looks easier than the coupler. Also, I can find the big boot that covers VGRS actuator, but cannot find the outer boot that fastens to firewall inside engine compartment. Do you happen to know what diagram that would be in? I’m looking on partsouq- can’t find it. Also, do the clamps come with new boots?
Pls disregard part finder question- I think I found it- lower shaft boot (looks like a little donut) part #45292-60160 Lowe main shaft dust seal + its associated clamp.
 
No! There is a bolt hidden by the inside upper seal remaining. It's another clamp force bolt at top of #1.

#1
View attachment 3583320
When disconnecting the clamp force bolt above ujoint (in your pic #1), once bolt is out, is there enough sliding available to flex actuator shaft assembly out of the way to slip big boot on? Or, does more stuff have to be disconnected in upper and / or lower shafts to make the split for boot fitment?
 
You will need the snap ring TSB or service manual. There're procedures for clocking actuator and calibration when finished installing.
 

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