Steering Concern on My New 100

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MH_Stevens

MH_Stevens

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Location
Crescent City, California
Just picked up my "new" 100 Land Cruiser in LA and drove it home down the I5. Has the optional 18" tires. After my 80 Land Cruiser steering seems very strange. It drives dead straight with hands off wheel, even when braking, but on turning it fights back, like if I let go of the wheel on even a gentle freeway curve, the Cruiser straightens up where my old 80 would more hold the turn.

Is this normal or might there be some service required?

I'll post pics in my truck thread later.

Thanks

NEW TODAY 2003 Land Cruiser, Tan with two-tone tan inside, 138,000 miles
 
MH_Stevens said:
Just picked up my "new" 100 Land Cruiser in LA and drove it home down the I5. Has the optional 18" tires. After my 80 Land Cruiser steering seems very strange. It drives dead straight with hands off wheel, even when braking, but on turning it fights back, like if I let go of the wheel on even a gentle freeway curve, the Cruiser straightens up where my old 80 would more hold the turn.

Is this normal or might there be some service required?

I'll post pics in my truck thread later.

Thanks

NEW TODAY 2003 Land Cruiser, Tan with two-tone tan inside, 138,000 miles
Click to expand...

Congrats.
 
It should not be giving resistance like that. Hopefully, it does not require a new steering rack. Unfortunately, it seems to be relatively common. Then again, the oldest 100s are now going on 16 years old....
 
MH_Stevens said:
Just picked up my "new" 100 Land Cruiser in LA and drove it home down the I5. Has the optional 18" tires. After my 80 Land Cruiser steering seems very strange. It drives dead straight with hands off wheel, even when braking, but on turning it fights back, like if I let go of the wheel on even a gentle freeway curve, the Cruiser straightens up where my old 80 would more hold the turn.

Is this normal or might there be some service required?

I'll post pics in my truck thread later.

Thanks

NEW TODAY 2003 Land Cruiser, Tan with two-tone tan inside, 138,000 miles
Click to expand...

How's the vehicle rack? you want somewhere between 1 and 1.5 inches. Tire pressures set where you want them?

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
Sound to me like tight steering. Congrats
 
I've noticed similar when moving between solid linked front and IFS vehicles as far as the steering input required. Especially on expansion joints in curved bridges, solid axle seems to track more true where IFS takes some steering input to keep on the same line. Maybe it's just me.
 
I'll look at the rack gap in manual. Thought I should have noted the tires I have on. They are new Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza - 275/60/18
 
PADDO said:
How's the vehicle rack? you want somewhere between 1 and 1.5 inches. Tire pressures set where you want them?
Click to expand...

Please explain what should be 1 to 1.5 inches. I read the FSM on the steering rack removal and service and don't see what you mean. Thanks.
 
MH_Stevens said:
Please explain what should be 1 to 1.5 inches. I read the FSM on the steering rack removal and service and don't see what you mean. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Should have read rake, fat iPhone fingers. These vehicles handle and steer best when the front is 1 to 1.5 inches lower than the rear, as measured from hub centers to fender bottoms. Search "stink bug" for hours of fun reading. I found 35 psi front and 37 rear work well in those duellers too. Hope that helps, sorry to mislead.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
MH,

Measure rake and report back with measurements.

Check and adjust tire pressure as needed.

If those both look correct, my next step would be to have an alignment done. Most places will put it on the rack and give you a "before" readout before doing anything and charges for an alignment. If it's in spec, continue the trouble shooting. If not, have them align it, drive it and report back with findings.
 
Paddo: Thanks. My stinkbug distance is zero - front height=back height, but………

the RIGHT side of cruiser is 1" HIGHER than the LEFT in both the front and the back. Measurements from ground to wheel well are: FL=34", FR=35", RL=34", RR=35".

Is this a shock absorber thing? I'm surprised both left sides are lower than both right sides.
 
So this is NORMAL for a stock Cruiser?
 
MH_Stevens said:
So this is NORMAL for a stock Cruiser?
Click to expand...

It's normal for the springs and TBs to loose a bit of oomph over time, nothing that can't be tweaked out. Your 34 inch ground to fender is pretty close to front stock height, this should equate to around 19.5 hub centre to fender. I'd work on getting the front cross level at approx 19.5 hub centre to fender and see where that leaves you for the rear cross level, maybe a trim packer will be needed if you don't have plans for new coils etc. When you can get cross level within .25 inch or so and the 1 inch rake dialed in I'd expect your steering to behave a bit better.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
So bottom line, if I get this right. I have some weak springs and need put in spacers to level front then get back an inch higher? Its a spring not a shock thing. I put new springs in my 80, a simple job if that's what is required.

Tommorow im off to Borego Springs to do some ahrd teat runs I'll see what is like when I get home and how she handles. Those tire pressures of 35/37 given above, is that good for off-road too or just highway. My door panel says much lower at 29/32
 
Last edited:
MH_Stevens said:
So this is NORMAL for a stock Cruiser?
Click to expand...

A full 1" delta left to right is on the high side. Are you measuring from center of hub to fender lip or from the ground. Should be measuring from the center.
 
MH_Stevens said:
So bottom line, if I get this right. I have some weak springs and need put in spacers to level front then get back an inch higher? Its a spring not a shock thing. I put new springs in my 80, a simple job if that's what is required.

Tommorow im off to Borego Springs to do some ahrd teat runs I'll see what is like when I get home and how she handles. Those tire pressures of 35/37 given above, is that good for off-road too or just highway. My door panel says much lower at 29/32
Click to expand...

TBs cross level and raise/lower your front. Put a few turns onto the L adjuster bolt, that'll raise LH front a bit, take it for a quick drive to settle it in and remeasure, adjust TBs as necessary. If you tune in the front for that 19.5 hub to fender measurement you should be pretty close to stock height of 20.5 at the rear. As you crank front LH TB that has an effect on RR corner. To get the rake right it might be easier to lower the front a bit instead of raising the rear, assuming you are staying stockish in the short term, just turn both TB bolts equally cw to raise, ccw to lower. Get the front about right height and level wise and that will dictate what, if anything you need to do to the rear. 35/37 is great for daily and highway loaded, light snow and mud/gravel, I don't do any sump bashing stuff. Running the name plate 29/32 feels like trying to steer a marshmallow. The tire shop probably set it a nameplate cause that's the least risk option for them. Of course, these height and cross level adjustments should be done on flat ground, fuel tank full and vehicle unloaded if possible.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
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