steering box

[claytonfaulkner]

I've got a 97 LX 450 and the steering is really loose. I got the truck almost 4 years ago and the steering has been slowly getting worse since I got it. So slowly in fact that it now has between 70* and 80* of slop and I didn't realize it was that bad until I tried to measure it.

The slop is taking place somewhere in the steering box. With someone turning the steering wheel I can see the input shaft turning, while the pitman arm stays still.

So what are my options here?

Ive searched and what I've gotten is that its best to replace the box or have it rebuilt. Well I need to drive the truck so I guess it's gonna be a replacement. Where can I get it done? In the threads I read there was mention of somewhere in Texas but I guess I just skipped over the name.

 

[lndcruz]

In for the answer as well. Mine has been slowly getting worse to.

Took it to a well respected alignment shop locally(owner has cruisers!) and they said it was in the box and could be adjusted out, but I haven't take it back yet. May do it next week and post if it helps or not.

 

[greentruck]

There is a large set screw on the top of the box that can be adjusted to take up the slop in your steering from wear. Check the FSM for the procedure, simple fix if that's the problem.

On the other hand, check carefully around the mounting of the steerbox to the frame. Some have experienced cracking of the frame around the edges of the steerbox. If that's the problem, you'd be well-advised to get that welded up, rather than keep driving -- unless you're not worried about keeping things pointed in any particular direction:whoops:

 

[js93cruiser]

There is a large set screw on the top of the box that can be adjusted to take up the slop in your steering from wear. Check the FSM for the procedure, simple fix if that's the problem.

On the other hand, check carefully around the mounting of the steerbox to the frame. Some have experienced cracking of the frame around the edges of the steerbox. If that's the problem, you'd be well-advised to get that welded up, rather than keep driving -- unless you're not worried about keeping things pointed in any particular direction:whoops:

x2, loosen the lock nut and turn clockwise in 1 rotation increments, tighten lock screw and drive it, repeat if still to sloppy

 

[Nay]

The shop being referred to is West Texas Offroad IIRC. Adjust the nut first if you don't have any leaks.

I bought a spare box off MUD and will be rebuilding my own as well as swapping in the 105 series sector shaft. I'll have my box available as a core for anybody who wants to do the same within about 30 days.

 

[claytonfaulkner]

ok so i took the battery box out so i could get to the steering box. i removed the locking nut and i cant turn the slot bolt. it only turn about a 1/4 inch and then i can turn it anymore. any help?

 

[claytonfaulkner]

uh oh

i ended up putting a cresent wrench on the end of a screw driver, big oops. i messed up the bolt and how i cant get the locking nut to go on. is it safe to drive without the locking nut?

 

[Bogart]

I replaced my box with a reman unit 18 months ago to solve a leak issue, the old box was actually tighter than the new one so I adjusted the nut about 1/8 turn and it tightened right up with no binding or excess heat buildup, I have the old box and all it needs are some new seals.
Pm me if interested.

Cheers Peter

 

[claytonfaulkner]

yea that was supposed to be 1/4 turn, not inch

 

[greentruck]

If it was me, I wouldn't be driving until you get the box adjustment set. What you probably want to do is get the front end safely up on jacks and turn the wheel back and forth. After you cycle it, that may have taken the bind out of the adjuster and tightened back up. If you don't have a way of locking the adjuster, it's liable to cause binding -- not good when you're trying to steer.

If you can get a triangular file on the screw threads, you may be able to chase them enough to get the nut back on to tighten. A hard reach to work on, but if you can't get the nut back on, then the box will either needs swapped out for a replacement or taken out for repair, which involves a tear-down and rebuiild, if it were mine.

Maybe someone who has a better grasp of the rebuild can tell if I'm being overly cautious here?

Steering and brakes are two things you want right before taking anything to the street -- or trail.

 

[Dave 2000]

DO NOT simply turn in the screw untill all the slop has gone. In the straight ahead position is where most of the wear takes place, simply tightening it here may make the steering jam when turned full lock. As mentioned earlier assuming the chassis is good and no welding is needed then get the front up on axle stands and check for wear in all the other joints, only then start to think about adjustment. Just half a turn of the screw can make a lot of difference so I would first mark the top of the screw so you can return to the original setting. Next turn the screw in about a quarter of a turn, keep and eye on the lock nut as it will be inclined to turn with the screw and then bind. After turning lightly nip the lock nut and turn the steering wheel lock to lock with the engine off, your are looking for binding at the two extremes of lock, if no binding then move the secrew down a little further and repeat, each time nipping up the lock nut.

When you are happy you have no slop along with no binding can you tighten the lock nut properly, if you cannot achieve minimum play without binding then the box is probably toast and due for a rebuild.

regards

Dave

 

[lndcruz]

^ Why I'm going to leave it to a professional. Binding up sounds scary to me.

 

[lndcruz]

Got it back today. Oh wow! It drives like new again.

Defiantly worth $65

 

[LifeOverland]

lndcruz, what was the fix?

 

[lndcruz]

lndcruz, what was the fix?

They adjusted the steering box screw and aligned it. It was perfect for a while but its slowly getting bad again. Guess its time for a steering box re-build.

 

[subspd]

What does a new/rebuilt box cost? How hard is it to install one?