steering arm removal

[yooper]

Finally going to install my 4x4labs hi steer setup, currently in demolition mode. This is on my '76 FJ55

I have the nuts and cone washers removed from my steering arms, but I can't get them off the knuckles. The arms seem loose, just won't lift up. Do I have to open the knuckle, pull the axle, and press the arm out like in the FSM, or can I just use a prybar from the outside?

Also, should I plan on replacing the steering arm studs while I'm in there? I know they are are pretty stressed out from the previous steering setup...

thanks!

 

[Poser]

Two pry bars on either side, and pry it up...


Me, I would replace the studs, no questions. Clean out the threads with brake cleaner, blow them out with an air source, and RED LOCKTITE them in, and you are good to go!




Good luck!


-Steve

 

[yooper]

Thanks, Steve, that will be my plan - going to the garage now to find two pry bars...

 

[Poser]

Even force side to side is the ticket, if you do not have the FST....


Good luck!


-Steve

 

[yooper]

Got it off..... :whoops:

Is half the knuckle bearing supposed to come out with it, with bearing rollers dropping on the floor? Is it supposed to smell like gear oil when you remove the steering arm? Is the grease in the knuckle supposed to be brown, kind of the color of rust? :whoops: ....

No need to answer. Front axle rebuild time.

Here's what I'm looking at. Is this bad?

 

[e rock]

I would guess about 2/3 of the stock arms & bearing caps I've ever removed take the inner race with them.

 

[Poser]

Frontendectomy is in you future....


Good luck!


-Steve

 

[yooper]

Oh, it keeps getting better! I went to work on the other side. Again, instant eau de gear oil as soon as I got the cone washers out, then as I was loosening the steering arm with the pry bars, I see water dripping on the floor! WTF? Looked around the back of the knuckle, and water and gear oil/grease soup was running out past the felts!

I think I'm done for this evening, after I drain the diff, of course...sigh

 

[yooper]

The knuckle kit from Marlin Crawler is tempting at $85, including knuckle bearings. Any reason not to use this kit? Should I just PM CDan, pony up the $, and stop worrying?

http://www.marlincrawler.com/axleparts.html

 

[Poser]

The kit from Marlin would be fine...


Good luck!


-Steve

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Either order from CDan, or order from Cruiseroutfitters (same kit as Marlin) and order the OEM "wiper seal kit", That way you get Toyota wider seals and new metal half moons. The Marlin kit and all the other aftermarket kits do not have new felt retainers (the "half moons") and for a slick and professional looking job you want new stuff on the outside. It gets crappy right away but you get huge satisfaction looking at it before the first drive.

 

[yooper]

I do need new half moons. Mine are all bent, probably by uneven overtightening. I think I'll spread the love a bit and order from multiple vendors...

Marlin sells a really nice preload scale, snap ring pliers, and hub sockets, FWIW...

thanks guys!

 

[CruisinGA]

The Snap-On circlip pliers are the single nicest, most well designed tool I have ever used.

I am not necessary all for Snap On in every case, but I have never used a pair that worked so flawlessly as these.

A dial fish scale works great...

The last set of 80 series knuckles I did drained a 1/2 cup of clear water....

 

[Poser]

Be still my heart...


Bailey has something positive to say about Snap On....


Look out for that asteroid....

 

[CRZRJames]

Yooper,

Most of the kits come with trunion bearings (what's shown in your photo) or wheel bearings but not both. If your trunion bearings are in that bad of shape, you're going to want to replace the wheel bearings while you're in there. Be sure to order all the bearings.

Good Luck,

James

 

[yooper]

Oh yeah, this will be a full on rebuild. Wheel bearings for sure, new knuckle studs, cone washers, nuts, probably shims, etc.. I'm going to dismantle everything today, before I order anything, to see if I need axle bushings, birfield snap rings (I may or may not dismantle the birfs), birfields themselves, new knuckles (studs seem loose), manual hub parts, brake parts, etc. My Pig deserves it.

I realized for the first time last night that my axles have the factory breather valves on them, from 1976 (I've only had this Pig since summer). These may be the culprit, so they will be replaced with extended lines.

Thanks for all the advice, guys. I've never done a full knuckle rebuild, but I've been reading about it for two years. I could probably do it without the manual, except for the torque and preload values.

Can anybody recommend a caliper for measuring the distances required for shimming? Or should I just do it empirically - put in some shims, measure preload, change shims, etc.?

 

[mattg]

Toyota has an SST for aligning the birfield in the knuckle...

Or just do what the rest of us do and keep track of the shim configuration when you pull it apart. Use the same combination when you put it together.

Matt

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Toyota has an SST for aligning the birfield in the knuckle...

Or just do what the rest of us do and keep track of the shim configuration when you pull it apart. Use the same combination when you put it together.

Matt

Yoop-This is very good advice and works 100% of the time in my experience of 4 front axle rebuilds. With the kits you are talking about, one thick shim, and one thin shim top and bottom will get you very, very close.

From the picture, yours looks to have the small knuckle stud pattern, I'm not sure of CDan has the fancy new studs with the star drive on top, but if he does, you should get them. If you need to replace the knuckle (doubt it but you said maybe) I would toss all the old stuff and upgrade to FJ60 knuckles/birfs/hubs/brakes/lockouts.
The later knuckle is stronger, with wider spaced and thicker studs and a much stronger steering arm.

 

[CruisinGA]

Look out for that asteroid....

Don't worry, it won't happen too often.

Andrew-If he upgraded (which I agree is well worth the time/trouble/money) he would no longer be able to use his 4x4labs kit, which is made for the small stud pattern.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Andrew-If he upgraded (which I agree is well worth the time/trouble/money) he would no longer be able to use his 4x4labs kit, which is made for the small stud pattern.

10-4, I missed the part about the 4x4 arms. I have been to the source of those arms many times, and Luke is a first class individual and does incredible work.