steering arm fell out!

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Looking at this 'regular' problem, the same thing comes to mind. There was AFAICT never a problem with the knuckle studs from the factory? I did some Googling and only came up with threads from elderly vehicles that had been repaired, often only a short time prior to losing the nuts/studs.

At the age the LC is now we must simply assume the axle seal has been replaced and at some time the hub/knuckle assembly has been off to replace the bearings, and given the cost of main dealer repairs, and being seen more and more is the refusal of main dealers to work on older cars.

I think it is a fair bet that it was not Toyota that did the work on pretty much every failure we have seen?

One thing which does seem to be common is the stud has backed out of the knuckle, as opposed to the nuts falling off, the studs often found with the nuts still intact.

So why do the studs back out? It could be they were not properly installed in the first place? A common way to 'set' a stud is to lock two nuts together and then wind the stud in until it stops and then unlock the two nuts and repeat. It is possible the very act of releasing the two nuts actually results in the stud loosening? This would happen whether Loctite or similar has been used, it takes a while to dry.

Then there are the cones, I prefer to put a smear of grease on them, then I know they have pulled home nice and tight. And then locking washers, I do not use them in this area, I use locking nuts. It could be argued that if like many you do not use the back plate, that heat from the brakes could reach and soften the locking mechanism, I recently upgraded my brakes due to fade from my 'enthusiastic' driving style, I can still bring the brakes to fade but, I have never had loose nuts.........well so I am told.

Another possibility is the studs are stretching which would indicate some poor quality offerings out there?

If I have looked at one picture of a stud being loose (but the others more or less tight), I have looked at a hundred, and they all have 'Birf soup', is it possible the grease from the knuckle is working it's way down the stud aided by some contamination from the axle oil? This could be aided by the aforementioned stretched studs?

At the time of my rebuild circa six years...ish back I used the parts seen below, the 'Torx' drive not only allows correct torque setting of the stud, but I also use Loctite, this prevents IMO any oil or grease working it's way down the thread, some use silicone but this may seal but does not harden, so ultimately there is a movable non drying 'cushion' between the threads, Loctite sets hard and seals the thread an all in one solution in my experience.

After the various stories of these failures I would check the nuts, after awhile you simply give up checking, they are still tight, a further four years on and I was under there with the new HD drag link, gave them a check with the torque wrench and they did not move and are still tight, I do have some soup though, and am looking for a set of TG seals (they are out of stock ATM).

So, for me it is Torx style studs installed with Loctite to the correct torque, smear of grease on the cones, locking nuts, job done and still done.




studs-and-lock-nuts-jpg.410776


Regards

Dave
 
I just cleaned the threads out with a tap and refitted my studs with blue locktite.
They were a little loose AFTER I disassembled the left hand knuckle.
All will be good.
 
I guess mine will be an experiment.

New studs, and stud holes didn't have a bunch of dirt or anything but they did have some residual grease. New bearings, preload set correctly, everything torqued to spec, cone washers old but in perfect condition.. I will say that probably due to the cone washers I had to go back over all 4 nuts torquing to spec about 6 times before they stopped actually tightening before the click.

I'll paint the nuts and see if stuff loosens without loctite.


Did it occur to anyone that studs installed with loc-tite may have the threads centered, but when torquing the nuts it may pull the threads tight to one side, loosening the loc-tite on the other? Guess this would only matter if someone didn't actually run the studs into the knuckle firmly.
 

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