Builds SteelArts BJ42 Landcruiser Build

[SteelArt]

Ok Mace cheers for that.

Top arms are 590 long [ the measurement from the center to the diff up top is 500] and the bottom arms are 820 long and 920 to the center of the diff. The distance at the front height is 220 and the diff is 300.

I am going to plug them in now

 

[yotawheeler]

wicked build! cant say that i have seen very many BJ42 builds at all....i always kind of lean more towards building a FJ, i love the diesel in my BJ42 but...is there much or anything for gearing options for a BJ? that would be my only concern with running big boots behind a 3B or in ur case a 13BT. in any case its a wicked build and thats a really clean looking truck, wish mine looked like that!

 

[SteelArt]

wicked build! cant say that i have seen very many BJ42 builds at all....i always kind of lean more towards building a FJ, i love the diesel in my BJ42 but...is there much or anything for gearing options for a BJ? that would be my only concern with running big boots behind a 3B or in ur case a 13BT. in any case its a wicked build and thats a really clean looking truck, wish mine looked like that!

Cheers,

Gearing ??? They are pretty much the same as the FJ with a different donk and input shafts. I can get every custom gear option for an FJ for a BJ, there is no difference in them in that area.

I will prob goto 4.88's once up and going if the 35"s are to much for it. I will at least put a set of T-case crawlers in it although the 13BT does well down low it is always nice to have a low low.

 

[kling-on]

nice ride better build keep it comin I'm lovin it

 

[SteelArt]

nice ride better build keep it comin I'm lovin it

Cheers,

Well rear shocks are in and front diff is now out and brackets are fitted.



Dale should have it back on wheels next week with some luck and then I can get it back and make me some body panels

Then I just have to decide if I am gunna wack a back set of doors in it while she is all cut up

 

[Sputnik40]

Will the shocks clear the frame with the coils installed? Looks tight. What are the thoughts on having coilovers inboarded on the axle housing like that - I've been holding off on my 4-link as everyone here has convinced me to just the rear frame off and go buggy, so as to get the best shock placement. Ok - I'm also tired of basically smashing the tub on everything - and there's lots of benefits to going buggy, but would like to see some discussion on the inboarded shock mounts....

 

[yotawheeler]

Cheers,

Gearing ??? They are pretty much the same as the FJ with a different donk and input shafts. I can get every custom gear option for an FJ for a BJ, there is no difference in them in that area.

I will prob goto 4.88's once up and going if the 35"s are to much for it. I will at least put a set of T-case crawlers in it although the 13BT does well down low it is always nice to have a low low.

yup, gearing...i understand that the axles, trans and x-case will have similar gearing in stock form as the FJ's but what i meant was aftermarket options like the SM420, SM465 or the NV 4500 transmissions that can be used on the F engine family. is there anyplace who makes a crawl box, aftermarket x-case or do you know any tranny's that can be put behind the 3B/13BT...thats kinda what i was getting at. my FJ40 didnt really crawl all that well with stock gears and 35's...it did alright but the SM420 has made it much better

 

[SteelArt]

yup, gearing...i understand that the axles, trans and x-case will have similar gearing in stock form as the FJ's but what i meant was aftermarket options like the SM420, SM465 or the NV 4500 transmissions that can be used on the F engine family. is there anyplace who makes a crawl box, aftermarket x-case or do you know any tranny's that can be put behind the 3B/13BT...thats kinda what i was getting at. my FJ40 didnt really crawl all that well with stock gears and 35's...it did alright but the SM420 has made it much better

Ah ok .. well being in Australia we don't have those box's all over the place like in teh USA. A H41 4 speed will give you a lower 1st crawl ratio but I am just going to put a set of reduction gears in teh T-case and then prob 4.88's R&P to get the ratio with the 35's back to stockish.

 

[SteelArt]

Will the shocks clear the frame with the coils installed? Looks tight. What are the thoughts on having coilovers inboarded on the axle housing like that - I've been holding off on my 4-link as everyone here has convinced me to just the rear frame off and go buggy, so as to get the best shock placement. Ok - I'm also tired of basically smashing the tub on everything - and there's lots of benefits to going buggy, but would like to see some discussion on the inboarded shock mounts....

Ok clearance is an interesting term when fitting coil overs and links to your 40 series and you have cut the rear end off

Wouldn't you agree ?

I have no issues with the placement of the coil overs being in board, they travel fine and will dampen without issue. I would never cut the back off and buggy is as it would never get rego then.

I would be keen to hear why people have issues with doing it this way.

Will they clear with coils on .... well they are a little close



Luckily it isn't like it hasn't been chopped up anyway so a little more shaping ain't gunna kill it

 

[Mace]

body roll is one of the issues..

 

[SteelArt]

body roll is one of the issues..

I am guessing that you are talking in relation to running the coil overs inboard yeah ?

If so I am not concerned as the spring and dampening rate will fix that. Yes shocks are less effective on an angle due to that geometry stuff but as long as spring and shock rates are matched I don't see any real effect.

Besides it is a cruiser with lift and bigger tyres and no sway bars (ATM) so it was always destine for body roll if I want articulation.

Mt buggy has shocks on around 20 degrees and it don't have any body roll issues.

Have you had experience to the contrary ?

Reason I ask is that I have had a few people comment but when it comes down to it they have never actually done it or known anyone who has so I can’t see what they are basing their comments on.

That being said I am sure there are some people in the USA who have done it, not to many people down here who have coil overs yet alone have setup multiple sets.

 

[SteelArt]

When you look at it when it is sitting flat it isn't on that much of an angle so the issue will be more to do with the leverage generated by being closer to the centre line of the diff I would think and then we really are talking about a spring rate fix rather than a sway bar.

 

[Mace]

I am guessing that you are talking in relation to running the coil overs inboard yeah ?

If so I am not concerned as the spring and dampening rate will fix that. Yes shocks are less effective on an angle due to that geometry stuff but as long as spring and shock rates are matched I don't see any real effect.

Besides it is a cruiser with lift and bigger tyres and no sway bars (ATM) so it was always destine for body roll if I want articulation.

Mt buggy has shocks on around 20 degrees and it don't have any body roll issues.

Have you had experience to the contrary ?

Reason I ask is that I have had a few people comment but when it comes down to it they have never actually done it or known anyone who has so I can’t see what they are basing their comments on.

That being said I am sure there are some people in the USA who have done it, not to many people down here who have coil overs yet alone have setup multiple sets.

When you look at it when it is sitting flat it isn't on that much of an angle so the issue will be more to do with the leverage generated by being closer to the centre line of the diff I would think and then we really are talking about a spring rate fix rather than a sway bar.

The angle in the pics is not bad..

It is when you hit 45* at ride height that concerns arise...

 

[SteelArt]

The angle in the pics is not bad..

It is when you hit 45* at ride height that concerns arise...

I am not sure I follow.

If I hit 45 * at ride height it is fair to say that I will not being going fast yeah ? so dampening will be less of an issue as it is moving slowly which shocks will allow anyway ?

Besides at 45* the other shock will be almost verticle and I can adjust valving on rebound to help out if need be.

Having never run coil overs on anything with a front diff before and this much weight I could be all wrong so any advice would be great.

 

[SteelArt]

Ok the build continues. The rear is pretty much done now and work has begun on the front.

The radius arms are in place and the coil over towers have been bent up and fitted to check clearances and setup.

 

[Mace]

By inboarding both the top and the bottom of the shock on the axle you are increasing the lever arm on that shock.

Yes you can increase your spring and valving rates to make up for the difference, but then you will ride poorly in a straight line.

If you are comfortable with the body sway, then go right ahead

 

[SteelArt]

By inboarding both the top and the bottom of the shock on the axle you are increasing the lever arm on that shock.

Yes you can increase your spring and valving rates to make up for the difference, but then you will ride poorly in a straight line.

If you are comfortable with the body sway, then go right ahead

hehe yeah I am comfy with the body sway as I really don't see it as an issue up back with the angles I have.

I guess time will tell, after looking at a lot of rigs on the internet and seeing the body stuff people get away with I doubt I will have any issues.

After all it is a 40 series not a Baja 100 trophy truck and if body roll becomes an issue I will add a rear linked sawy bar to accopmodate and push articulation to the front axle more.

 

[bad_religion_au]

body roll will be a concern if your ever going to rego it. every state i know anything about their rego laws will require you to do an emergency swerve test.

 

[SteelArt]

body roll will be a concern if your ever going to rego it. every state i know anything about their rego laws will require you to do an emergency swerve test.

Should be fine, time and testing results will tell I guess. I might end up fitting a rear sway bar setup to it with torsion bar like the jeeps.

It has passed initial inspection without a glitch and yes it will be registered.

 

[SteelArt]

Well it is done, just waiting on the coils to be made and then I can begin the body modifications, roll cage, brakes, drive shafts, barwork, rear bar, seats, air con etc ... it just never ends.





I will be upgrading the seating capacity to 4 once the family cage is installed. To do this I am probably going to use a rear fold down seat from a Nissan Patrol as I got one at a good price and it seems to fit ok.



One of the many good things about the new body length is that I will be able to fit my batteries and long range fuel tank in the back under the floor and the Engel fridge behind rear shock towers and still close rear doors.

Should be interesting to see how it all pans out once I start folding sheet.