Stay conventional or go full synthetic?

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Woo hoo! I'm now the owner of a 2004 Lexus LX 470. I bought her from a Lexus dealership that did the last oil change and they used Valvoline 5W-30 conventional oil. I have about 1,000 miles until my next oil change and I thought about switching to Mobil 1 full synthetic and a oversized K&N HP-2009 oil filter. Will I be safe to make a full synthetic conversion, or should I just stay conventional? Also I know some of you guys on here recommend switching to the oversized K&N HP-2009 oil filter, but what are the advantages of doing so?
 
Congrats first off! I have the same rig and went through the same conventional vs. synthetic internal debate. In the end I elected to stick with conventional as in the collector car world it's said that synthetic can introduce a whole slew of new leaks since it has almost penetrating oil effect compared to traditional oils. You can always add AT-205 to seal leaks but I'd prefer to avoid them to begin with. If you change it on schedule you're fine, many rigs have racked up half a million miles on conventional oil.
 
Synthetic oils are just better at lubricating, especially at the extremes of the temperature scale.
For filter, there is nothing better than OEM.
 
Congrats first off! I have the same rig and went through the same conventional vs. synthetic internal debate. In the end I elected to stick with conventional as in the collector car world it's said that synthetic can introduce a whole slew of new leaks since it has almost penetrating oil effect compared to traditional oils. You can always add AT-205 to seal leaks but I'd prefer to avoid them to begin with. If you change it on schedule you're fine, many rigs have racked up half a million miles on conventional oil.
Thank's! Here she is, so far I'm digging this ride. She has almost 180,000 miles on her. I paid a little bit more for her, but she had 1 owner, who happened to be an employee at the Lexus dealership that I bought her from. She has been meticulously kept clean and maintained. All the service work was done the dealership I bought her from and the other Lexus dealership they own and I have all the paperwork as well. It's been documented in CarFax as well. She does have some Northwest Indiana rust on the frame, but its all surface rust that was going to happen due to where we live. Except for 1 area that I am going to get taken care of before winter.

As for the oil, you bring up a good point, so I'm going to stay "conventional." As far as oil filters go, should I just stick with a Mobil 1 oil filter, or go the oversized K&N oil filter route?

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You should be fine. I switched my LX to Castrol 0w40 Euro when I purchased with no issues.

Oil threads always tend to open up a can of worms...:popcorn:
Yeah, I was surfing on here and saw so many cans of worms on old threads.
 
Toyota filter 90915-yzzf1 is $4 at camelbacktoyotaparts.com. I am thinking about moving to Full synthetic. My 3rd gen 4runner ran on syn blend until the last oil change. Now it is on Castrol full synthetic and after 300 miles no leaks and runs good. Whenever possible buy oem parts as this not just saves money, it also saves time.
 
Toyota filter 90915-yzzf1 is $4 at camelbacktoyotaparts.com. I am thinking about moving to Full synthetic. My 3rd gen 4runner ran on syn blend until the last oil change. Now it is on Castrol full synthetic and after 300 miles no leaks and runs good. Whenever possible buy oem parts as this not just saves money, it also saves time.
I think he meant 90915-yzzd3
 
I think he meant 90915-yzzd3
So this OEM Toyota oil filter will work on my LX470? I'm only asking b/c when I enter my vehicle info on Amazon it says this will not fit my vehicle. The Walmart here in town actually has these in stock for $6

What is the diff between this oil filter and the Lexus LX470 OEM oil filter...just what is stamped on the filter?
 
So this OEM Toyota oil filter will work on my LX470? I'm only asking b/c when I enter my vehicle info on Amazon it says this will not fit my vehicle. The Walmart here in town actually has these in stock for $6

What is the diff between this oil filter and the Lexus LX470 OEM oil filter...just what is stamped on the filter?

They both use the 90915-YZZD3. I've ordered from a Lexus dealer on-line and it arrived in a Toyota box. Amazon seems to have it wrong.
 
My local walmart has the oem oil filter for 4.99, i see them stock Honda oem filters too
 
Always wonder about the same thing. Bought my 05 LX with full service history. I'm not the one to swear about synthetic oils myself. I would like to continue whatever the dealer used. So do you think they used conventional or synthetic? Most dealers give you an option know?
 
Always wonder about the same thing. Bought my 05 LX with full service history. I'm not the one to swear about synthetic oils myself. I would like to continue whatever the dealer used. So do you think they used conventional or synthetic? Most dealers give you an option know?

I would bet you could call the dealership that serviced it to find out.
 
Synthetic oil does not leave gunk deposit, like the old conventional. Today's conventional are better than they were years ago, but not as good as synthetic at keeping internals clean. The main reason some car collectors don't switch to synthetic. Synthetic also cleans the seal of old gunk build up. Old seal that have had gunk build up are often dried out. So when synthetic oil cleans them, they tend to leak. This is where AT-205 may come in handy, provided seal not damaged. Personally I've switch over too M1 5W-30 at 350k miles without issue. Did same with 350k transmission, no issue.

OEM filters are good. Biggest thing when using OEM and convention is 1 yr or 5K mile max between flushes.

With M1 you can get the top shelve annual protection with the synthetic M1 filter. M1 guarantees your engine when the two used together. It's the only filter I know of, good for 20K miles.

Whatever you do never use. Never use HM oil (High Mileage oil). That stuff will damage your seals. It becomes addictive to your seals with just two oil flushes. Then you must use until all seals replace, or death do you part!
 
You're exactly right, and not to make too fine a point, but that's also what causes transmission damage in some high mileage rigs. Switching to synthetic ATF cleans the gunk off the various components, that have become accustomed to the "filler", so when you strip that all away and the mechanism is freed up for the first time since new basically, they can fail. I'm all for anyone using whatever they like but I don't want anyone to be surprised if they do have leaks or other problems. My can of worms comes with a plastic lid so I can open or close it up any time. lol
 

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