Keeping it simple: factory amp replacement or full overhaul? (1 Viewer)

[fowlerjk]

First, let me say that I've searched the forums and found bits and pieces of this answer but nothing concise.
Second, I used to run live audio gigs so I have enough knowledge to understand what might be happening but car audio is NOT my thing.

I have a factory non-nav head unit that I would like to keep, a GROM bluetooth interface, and have replaced all blown speakers + subwoofer with some simple units from Best Buy. That got me to the point of mediocre audio. Sometimes the subwoofer works, sometimes it doesn't, and I often find myself throwing the balance over to Left by 2 or 3 clicks because for whatever reason the Right channel is much louder. I'd like to replace the factory amp to see if I get more consistency.

Two questions:

1. Is there a suitable aftermarket amplifier that would go in without much fuss? I'm fine with any wiring changes that need to happen at the amplifier location itself...I just don't want to pull the whole truck apart to do major wiring changes.
2. I am thinking of taking this to a local car audio shop and having them replace everything other than the head unit. Has anyone else done a full replacement minus the head unit? Seems like when most everyone does an overhaul the head unit is the first to go. I like keeping things stock.

Edit: 2001 Land Cruiser, non-nav JBL head unit

 

[trdcorolla]

Welcome to mud, it'll help us help you if you put the year and which model 100 you have (the Toyota LC or Lexus LX)

 

[Mike NXP]

First, let me say that I've searched the forums and found bits and pieces of this answer but nothing concise.
Second, I used to run live audio gigs so I have enough knowledge to understand what might be happening but car audio is NOT my thing.

I have a factory non-nav head unit that I would like to keep, a GROM bluetooth interface, and have replaced all blown speakers + subwoofer with some simple units from Best Buy. That got me to the point of mediocre audio. Sometimes the subwoofer works, sometimes it doesn't, and I often find myself throwing the balance over to Left by 2 or 3 clicks because for whatever reason the Right channel is much louder. I'd like to replace the factory amp to see if I get more consistency.

Two questions:

1. Is there a suitable aftermarket amplifier that would go in without much fuss? I'm fine with any wiring changes that need to happen at the amplifier location itself...I just don't want to pull the whole truck apart to do major wiring changes.
2. I am thinking of taking this to a local car audio shop and having them replace everything other than the head unit. Has anyone else done a full replacement minus the head unit? Seems like when most everyone does an overhaul the head unit is the first to go. I like keeping things stock.

Edit: 2001 Land Cruiser, non-nav JBL head unit

Do you suspect the amp is failing based on your issues? You could send the amp off to be repaired with this guy here.

I'm not sure of any options for removing the factory amp and replacing it and it sounds like you already replaced all of your speakers so option 2 may not improve your results.

Are you looking for proper booming bass and big sound or do you just want it all to function? If you want real bass and sound you'll need a bigger subwoofer wired into the mix. You can still keep factory amp

The key here is you have a non-nav head unit so you have a bunch of options to tap into things.

If you suspect the amp is failing I'd consider paying to have it fixed and then if you need more sound upgrade to a bigger subwoofer that would live in the trunk area and is powered / wired from the head unit and battery

 

[Mike NXP]

Here is some stuff to read
After Market Amplifier Install - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/after-market-amplifier-install.847011/


Looks like @TheForger has some experience here and it looks like @Bigtex stuffed an infinity amp under the seat


I'll admit to not reading this too closely but this may be relevant too
Late Model Amplifier Upgrade - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/late-model-amplifier-upgrade.1251118/

 

[rbrave]

Love this. I am in the process of doing the same, but with a non-nav ‘98 LC. I am running Morel Maximo 6 components in front, with a cheap Bluetooth module (like the BT-45, but for older head units) that I picked up off Amazon a while back. Works great, way better sound quality going through the CD changer.

The best reference I have found for amp swaps remains this website. There are posts with wiring diagrams for the ‘98 and some decent looks at what to find under your seat. I just pulled the trigger on a Mosconi 4|8 DSP amp to replace my OEM amp, and will be using the Metra 70-8112 adapter to avoid cutting into my stock harness under the front seat. This way, if I ever want to something back or expand out more, it is easy to do. The biggest improvement in amps, it turns out, is all in signal processing. I’ve decided to jump in the deep end. The easy button may be the Alpine Optim8, but there appear to be software shortcomings to this system.

 

[fowlerjk]

Thanks for the feedback all!

I have an extra factory amp that came with a head unit swap (tape was stuck in the old one) and could very easily see if that fixes my problem. But while I have the seat out and amp area opened up, based on the recommended reading, I could try something like an Alpine S2-A55V to power my speakers and sub. Right?

Anyone with experiences going to a stereo shop and getting an "everything except the head unit" replacement?

 

[rbrave]

Replacing with an aftermarket amp should also take power into consideration. I am running 4awg to the new amp from the battery, which will hopefully be the most involved part of the process.

Having used car audio shops in the past…never again will I let someone in that industry touch my vehicle.

 

[Mike NXP]

Replacing with an aftermarket amp should also take power into consideration. I am running 4awg to the new amp from the battery, which will hopefully be the most involved part of the process.

Having used car audio shops in the past…never again will I let someone in that industry touch my vehicle.

Helpful chart for other folks wondering about what AWG to use per length / amps being drawn

Also since our vehicles also have RHD version available, there is a nice way to get through the firewall via the rubber boot on the passenger side.

 

[nissanh]

I also have a question about the factory amp. I recently installed a Nakamichi NA 6605 unit and now I hear a buzz sound at low volume and the speakers pop when ignition turns on and off. Any help is appreciated. Never had this issue with the Toyota radio/cassette player. I checked all the grounds and no change. I did ran a ground to the Nakamichi unit from the body and no change. I used an aftermarket adaptor (metra) to connect the Nakamichi into the OEM wire harness.

 

[fowlerjk]

Replacing with an aftermarket amp should also take power into consideration. I am running 4awg to the new amp from the battery, which will hopefully be the most involved part of the process.

Having used car audio shops in the past…never again will I let someone in that industry touch my vehicle.

Do you use an inline fuse or a distribution block?

 

[rbrave]

Both. Inline fuse as close to the battery as you can, additional fused distribution block just before the amp if running more than one. After shopping around quite a bit, I found that prices worked out the easiest ordering wire, terminals, and fuses/distribution from KnuKonceptz: Home and Car audio accessories, including amp installation kits and speaker wire - https://www.knukonceptz.com/

 

[Malleus]

@fowlerjk, listen to @rbrave
No one at a "professional" audio shop will do anything but cause you problems. They get paid by the hour, get paid to move products quickly, and not one of them knows a thing about Land Cruisers.

Download the EWD and Wiring Harness Repair Manual for your year and model, from the 100 series section in the Resources forum and do the work yourself. Nothing about audio is difficult, if you use Toyota's methodology and parts. If you need to add a wire, depin the terminal attached to the circuit and crimp a new wire onto a new terminal, along with the old one. There is no advantage to using "wire taps". Besides, they suck and will ruin your harness eventually.

Ballenger Motorsports has Sumitomo and Yazaki connector housings and terminals (the ones Toyota used) in stock; much cheaper than your dealership. Use the Manual to find the connector housing you want (the part number is embossed on the rear of each connector housing) and get it from them. Call them if you need something that isn't on their website; they're very good people and can, and will, get most everything.

Metra has some audio connector housing pigtails, but not every one is compatible with the Fujitsu/Nakamichi stereos and none for the Lexus models, and I'd still recommend depinning the pigtails and not splicing as is the usual practice. If you need a connector for a stereo in an LX470, The GS model sedans use the same stereos as the Land Cruisers; The LS, IS and ES models have different connectors. I haven't checked the SC models.

FWIW, it's very easy to screw up the electrical system by tapping into the wrong wire. Your Land Cruiser is not a '68 VW bug.

Also, the screws in the Land Cruiser are not Phillips, they're JIS (+). Use JIS screwdrivers so you don't ruin the heads.