Static Timing with an HEI (1 Viewer)

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klinetime574

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I am trying to correctly re-install my HEI distributor. Because I think I screwed it up before.

I have found these two great posts but I need a little more clarification please :)

2mbb: IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Timing Question

Cruiserdrew: IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - installing distributor fj60

2mbb's post says to align the rotor with post number one. My question is... When you are pointing the rotor at post number one does it also point to spark plug number one?

Cruiserdrew's method sounds like it may work because it involves the spark plugs and not the posts on the distributor, because the HEI has no marked posts. Their install instructions state that when at TDC and the distributor seated the rotor should be pointing at what you will now name spark plug number one. And then use the same firing order as marked on the stock cap.

And a few more questions:

The Oil pump slot just needs to be lined up with the tip of the distributor, it doesn't matter if it is spun 180 degrees right? Just as long as the gear mesh's correctly between the distributor and camshaft

Cruiserdrew's mentions a "mark on the pick up" what is this referring to?

Thanks to 2mbb and Cruiserdrew for the original posts!

Any help appreciated!
 
The oil pump drive shaft does need to mesh with the end of the distributor, but it doesn't matter if the oil pump is 180 degrees off. If it doesn't line up, you will know because the distributor will not fully seat into the engine. If you crank the starter while pushing down on the distributor, you can get it to mesh with the oil pump and seat fully into the engine. (leave the coil wire disconnected so the engine won't start).

If your HEI distributor has a vacuum advance diaphragm(s) you will need to orient the distributor so the diaphragms won't interfer with the engine block. If you are going to make custom length spark plug wires, then it doesn't matter which terminal post you designate as #1, as long as you connect the spark plugs in the correct firing order. However, if you are using pre-made wires (such as toyota wires) then you should try and make the #1 terminal close to the stock location (which is somewhat along the line formed by the center of the distributor and the #5 spark plug location in the head.
2f firing order.JPG
 
I got everything redone just about 30 minutes ago. Gotta wait a little longer until I can start because I re-did the sealant on the galley plug.

I am pretty confident I got it right this time. Vacuum advance is away from the engine block it wouldn't fit otherwise haha. I studied the Stock vs. the HEI and when the rotor points on the stock it is in line with the flat tip of the distributor. But the HEI is a one post off. So I got it oriented so it would point in the right area and then slid it into the engine, and then without even turning the engine it fully seated! I hope thats a good sign. I really need this thing to run better!

Thanks for the post 2mbb!
 
Save your old distributor, these are durable units with sealed ball bearings between the housing and the shaft, a much better-than-average setup (HEI is a bushing) and they can be recurved for some eye-opening performance gains.
 
Save your old distributor, these are durable units with sealed ball bearings between the housing and the shaft, a much better-than-average setup (HEI is a bushing) and they can be recurved for some eye-opening performance gains.

I will :D I have just about everything to get it back to stock if I ever needed/ wanted to. Chrome wheels, carb, distributor, ignition coil etc.
 
If anyone has some more info you wouldn't mind posting up it would be greatly appreciated! I tried to start it today and it would not start.

My brother and I ended up taking apart the Intake and Exhaust Manifolds to fix a leak, so I'll have plenty of time to get this figured out.
 
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My method is to spin the crank to what ever the static advance wants to be and verify that it's on the correct stroke (both rockers for the timing cylinder even with the other).
Then turn the dizzy until the correct reluctor lobe aligns 1/2 way past the pick-up coil's core. In the case of the GM HEI I just go with the reluctor tips pointing at the pick-up coil tips, and lightly cinch down the dizzy clamp. Make it tight enough that it can not easily move itself, but loose enough that you can move it by hand.
 

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