startup knock after 0w-40 change (1 Viewer)

[landtoy80]

How do they get PAIR out of Pulsed Seconndary Air Injection System?
What does the R stand for?

So the PAIR replaced the amog pump.
What replaced the PAIR on the "95+ 1FZ?
Does it have any pipe going tp the exhaust manifold other than the EGR pipe?

 

[RavenTai]

How do they get PAIR out of Pulsed Seconndary Air Injection System?
What does the R stand for?

I am wondering the same thing, I think the "R" is for reed, as in the reed valve in the middle of the PAIR system

So the PAIR replaced the amog pump.
What replaced the PAIR on the "95+ 1FZ?

newer generation O2 sensors and tigherter fuel managment cycle the mixture alturnatly rich and lean to give the cat all the diffrent ingreedents it needs to turn half bad air into only kinda bad air without having to add extra Oxygen to the mix like earlier systmes

Does it have any pipe going tp the exhaust manifold other than the EGR pipe?

nope just the EGR, no outside air is added to the exhuast on the later systems, all exhuast gasses come from the combustion chamber

 

[scottm]

DO you run 15w50 in winter time?

Yes on the Audi, plan to on the 80s. I originally ran it because it doesn't thicken up in the cold.

Raincheck on the steak, I'll be headed for a shabby hotel. Heading out early afternoon Thurs, maybe I'll pass you on the road.

 

[landtoy80]

I had Rotella T (dino) 15w40 on the 80 last fall. When it got in the 30s, I noticed the motor turned over slower when starting.

 

[cary]

Yes on the Audi, plan to on the 80s. I originally ran it because it doesn't thicken up in the cold.

You are kidding, right??!!! The reason it is 15w-50 and not 10w-50 or 5w-50 is because it only meets the 15w cold pump test. BTW, all oils thicken up when cold. Throw a quart of that 15w-50 in your freezer overnight and you see noticible thickning.

Cary

 

[Pskhaat]

When it got in the 30s, I noticed the motor turned over slower when starting.

Where you live, don't you mean the (negative) -30s?

 

[scottm]

You are kidding, right??!!! The reason it is 15w-50 and not 10w-50 or 5w-50 is because it only meets the 15w cold pump test. BTW, all oils thicken up when cold. Throw a quart of that 15w-50 in your freezer overnight and you see noticible thickning.

Cary

The weights indicate viscocity at 40 Celcius and 100 C. Synthetic oils last longer and perform better at extreme temps because they're more stable than dino. I'm convinced M1 15W50 is much thinner after a February night in Michigan than low viscocity dino, and better protects my engine on startup. I've heard and noticed myself that very cold engines with very cold batteries turn over more readily with M1. I've seen -50F windchills in the O'Hare parking lot, not a good time to be wrenching on a reluctant engine. I'd like to see a comparative graph of oil viscocities at temps that really matter, my engine passes through 40C and 100C briefly much of it's life. My main reason for running M1 is for cold starts, otherwise I'd run dino and change it frequently.

 

[scottm]

ROTFLMFAO.....


I just can't quite explain it, but the mental picture of an airline captain "biking" to work strikes me funny bone quite briskly........


Do you have a trailer for your briefcase thingy that you carry all of your log stuff in?

I've been moonlighting. An engineer running machine tools is a frightening thing!

 

[landtoy80]

I'd like to see a comparative graph of oil viscocities at temps that really matter, my engine passes through 40C and 100C briefly much of it's life. My main reason for running M1 is for cold starts, otherwise I'd run dino and change it frequently.

Pre the M1 web site, the spec so the 15w50 flows better than 10w30 dino at cold temps.
I posted them a while back if you dare to search them out or go to Mobil's web site.

 

[landtoy80]

Raincheck on the steak, I'll be headed for a shabby hotel. Heading out early afternoon Thurs, maybe I'll pass you on the road.

Doesn't Republic Airlines put you up in 5 star hotels?
Now I have to stop in Benton Harbot and find a lot lizzard and a have IT buy me supper.

 

[robbie]

I do not believe it has to do with the O2 sensers, they are 4 wire sensors and act the same. It is all the difference between OBD and OBDII. Where OBDII can handle tigher emissions by leaning or riching out the mixture alot faster and better to meet the emissions. It is all in the computer.
One other quick thing you may be able to try is drilling out the tensioner hole to .100. I did this to christo's truck yeasterday. The short bus has had it bad and christo runs 5w-30 dino in it. small new thailand filter. The rattle was real bad. Well this morning it is about a 1/3 of what the rattle almost gone. When I rebuilt my truck I drill the tensioner hole to .100 and have never had a issue. My wifes truck gets a slight one on start up. I will drill her next. and let you guys know. I got this mod off line when reading the web for it a few years ago. I found it in a Nissan user group with similar complaints that driling the oil feed hole allow oil to get to the tensioner faster to apply the pressure sooner to keep the chain tight. later robbie

 

[robbie]

One thing I forgot to mention is that all 93 and some 94 1FZ engine chain guide tensioners are a locking type that need to have the lock taken off with the valve cover off. It is a crap shoot in 94, most early models will have this type, while the later models will just have the tensioner litely spring loaded. These will not need the valve cover removed to put back in. later robbie

 

[cary]

Pre the M1 web site, the spec so the 15w50 flows better than 10w30 dino at cold temps.
I posted them a while back if you dare to search them out or go to Mobil's web site.

Sorry but you are wrong. I have Mobil's own PDF Charts with Kenematic Viscosity v. Temperature. At -10c, Mobil 10w-30 Mineral oil is 1200 cst, Mobil 1 15w-50 is 2000cst. If anyone would like to see the charts go to this page on Bobistheoilguy.com where another poster kindly hosted the charts for me.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=006896#000015

Res Ipsa Loquitur


Cary

 

[DRTDuck]

Mobil dino 5w-30, small Toyota filter (yzzzzzzz thingy), no rattle

 

[cruiserdan]

One thing I forgot to mention is that all 93 and some 94 1FZ engine chain guide tensioners are a locking type that need to have the lock taken off with the valve cover off. It is a crap shoot in 94, most early models will have this type, while the later models will just have the tensioner litely spring loaded. These will not need the valve cover removed to put back in. later robbie

According to the parts catalog the change from the locking style tensioner was in June 93 production. That may not be accurate especially if Robbie has seen any 94's so equipped. The locking style has been replaced by the later style. I installed one of those in my early production 93 when I had the front of the motor apart. As 1FZ engine parts go, it is quite cheap at $22.29 list.


D-

 

[robbie]

I had one in my 94 from the factory. Production date is 8/93. must of had some extra's laying around. robbie

 

[cruiserdan]

Another catalog error is the listing on black painted vehicles. According to the catalog there should not be any black 97's but they do exist and IIRC at least two board members have them and I have seen one in our shop.

 

[SteveLCetc]

Rattle or not, make sure you let the engine idle for a few seconds until the oil pressure comes up and distributes the oil. Engine life is much more closely related to number of starts than to miles or years.

Steve H

 

[RavenTai]

One other quick thing you may be able to try is drilling out the tensioner hole to .100. I did this to christo's truck yeasterday. The short bus has had it bad and christo runs 5w-30 dino in it. small new thailand filter. The rattle was real bad. Well this morning it is about a 1/3 of what the rattle almost gone. When I rebuilt my truck I drill the tensioner hole to .100 and have never had a issue. My wifes truck gets a slight one on start up. I will drill her next. and let you guys know. I got this mod off line when reading the web for it a few years ago. I found it in a Nissan user group with similar complaints that driling the oil feed hole allow oil to get to the tensioner faster to apply the pressure sooner to keep the chain tight. later robbie

Good info Robbie,

From the drawing in the manual it looks like the tensioner can be removed without taking anything else apart?, is this restriction that needs enlarging in that removed part or do you need to go deep like taking the timing cover off?

Don’t think I will be doing that for the rare rattle I have, but it is good to keep in mind

 

[cary]

My wifes truck gets a slight one on start up. I will drill her next. and let you guys know.

So did you drill your wife yet or what? We Want to know.