Starter goes click, click, click

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"I'm getting the same click click from my starter on my 67' I have ordered up a GR starter for an 82 fj60 to replace it. how much wiring will i need to do? My engine doesn't have a solenoid at least I'm pretty sure it doesn't."

The solenoid is the part that is clicking--it's bolted onto the starter so it can seem like one unit

The solenoid can click for a variety of reasons such as bad Battery, solenoid itself, bad cables or loose connections and so on

it can be as simple as needing to clean and tighten the battery cables

First check the battery and connections

you only need to disconnect the wires to the solenoid ---usually 2 or 3 and the main batt cable and take out 2 or 3 bolts to change it
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Many times, the clicking is just the solenoid gone bad. Remove the solenoid and disassemble it. There's a disc that makes contact with the brushes inside that commonly looses ability to pass current. 4crawler offroad makes replacement contacts for cheap and has a great how to on his website. Or you can just buy a new solenoid. Good luck.
 
starter goes clickety clickety click click click

When my GR starter was clicking, I found that I had no ground strap attached from the starter to the frame. I guess the PO forgot to install it when buttoning up ? :confused: :bang: oh well.

Picked one up from Autozone, and about 10 minutes later, she fired right up. no problems since.
--jeff
 
I have a non GR starter that would exactly replace your old one. You can have it for the cost of shipping. Let me know if you want it.

GR is better, but this will work just fine. Note price drop to free.
 
I wanted to add something to this thread about oil getting into starters. The very first post mentioned the Autodrone saying oil would burn up the bushings. He meant to say BRUSHES.

If oil gets on the brushes it causes excessive arcing on the brushes therby 'burning' them. The burning results in high resistance between the commutator and brushes, resulting in the click,click. It will start out intermittent, but as the brushes continue to burn it will become terminal.

You can take the starter apart, clean it out, file the brushes down about 1/8" to remove the burned ends, dress the commutator to remove the carbon burns, and put it back together.

The solenoid contacts can also be dressed, but they can be replaced very easily.

FWIW, it's faster and cheaper to just replace the starter with a GRS and be done with it.
 
The GRS starter does not have the ballast resistor bypass terminal. If you still have the ballast resistor hook up you will need to install a relay that will duplicate that function. It's easier to replace the coil with one that does not require the ballast resistor. ;)
 
There's probably no Ballast resistor nor is there likely a bypass terminal on a 67.

I've made the mistake of buying a new starter before cleaning the terminals and found out that that was the problem when the new starter didn't work either.
 

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