Stainless steel bleed screws/nipples/nuts?

[bikemaniac]

Hi,

As part of replacing my brake system I consider using a corrosion resistant material for the brake bleed valve/nipple/nut. Is stainless steel a safe option or will it cause problems when undoing the screws for future bleeding? Also, I have seen some nipples/nuts made out of brass, but I feel that they might be too soft rounding off edges when things get a bit stuck.

Lucas

 

[Malleus]

As long as you keep the undercarriage clean(ish), you should be able to loosen/remove the bleed screws when necessary. Always use brake line wrenches (brake line wrench - Google Search) when working on any brake fittings. They're designed to grab more of the hex and lessen the chances of rounding off the corners. Brass is a bad idea (bronze is OK, but you'll have to have someone make them for you), but if you really want to use stainless, go ahead. These are a big improvement over stock screws:

Speed Bleeder Sizes (You want the 1010 size)
Truck and SUV Application Guide - Speed Bleeders - Russell Performance Products (Look near the bottom of the page)

I wouldn't recommend these:
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
I've tried them and one out of every two leak

 

[bikemaniac]

Can anyone confirm if these speed bleeders actually work? I have tried a similar self-bleeding system before but was not impressed with the results and went back to "manual" bleeding with a friend. Last time I even bled the brakes by opening the nipples and just let gravity work for me. It worked like a charm - however it does not make sense in a professional workshop where time is an issue.

 

[Malleus]

I recommended them because I use them, along with a pressure bleeder. I'll never go back.

 

[ZackR]

If the bleeders are stuck I recommend a regular 6 point socket wrench after a soaking of PB blaster. Once the bleeder is broken loose remove the whole thing and clean up the threads as needed. During bleeding go with a flare wrench.

 

[86tuning]

At the shop we replace old brake bleeders with genuine parts, then after installing the rubber cover, apply a coat of paint. The paint on the threads and caliper junction will reduce corrosion and allow easy service in future. Every time the wheels are off, simply inspect, wire brush the bleeder threads and paint as needed.

As for speed bleeders, we don't bother. Genuine bleeders have more meat due to lack of mechanism. And vacuum bleeders save a lot of time. But two-person brake bleeding, or simply putting a clear hose into a bottle works fine. Brakes get retracted and bled during annual brake service (in rust prone conditions) or every two years outside of the snow belt.

 

[1973Guppie]

I like to use vice grips to break the bleeders free if they have not been touched in awhile. Then I use a standard 10 mm to loosen tighten them. I don't like the specified brake bleeder wrenches.

 

[Golgo13]

I bought stainless tube nuts from a local Brakequip distributor.

Also, Noxudol 300S is a pretty nice, waxy undercoating that will protect against corrosion

 

[nukegoat]

Just drive your cruiser into the vacuum of interstellar space and the air will boil out due to the vacuum. Easy and no mess

 

[86tuning]

I bought stainless tube nuts from a local Brakequip distributor.

Also, Noxudol 300S is a pretty nice, waxy undercoating that will protect against corrosion

Paint works fine on brakes and doesn't melt with heat, allowing easy removal. It's cheaper, readily available, and people often have a spray can sitting around somewhere.

The waxy undercoat stuff works great inside doors and frames! But paint is cheaper and less messy for brakes.