SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (9 Viewers)

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My SQOTD -
Are my TPMS sensors shot? I used one of those TPMS specific scanners and could only get 1 out of 5 wheels to respond. I have some secondhand black TRD Tundra wheels, probably a few years newer than my old stock wheels. My '08 readout registered them once when I put them on, but have always been stuck on CHECKING ever since. Tried it on a buddy's Tundra and had the same problem even though his sensors were replaced last year. On the wheels that responded the scanner read low on the measured PSI vs. a regular tire pressure gauge. The scanner was some XTOOL branded thing that I suspect is junk.

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A scanner gets the sensor ID. A tool like the D7 from XTOOL allows registration of those ID’s in the vehicle. You obviously need the right frequency/generation of sensor compatible with the vehicle. Unless the 200 series has further complexities in that space, you need to make that additional step. I think Techstream would be able to register these ID’s as well and would be another route.

PS I recently purchased the D7 from XTOOL for $325 and am impressed with its capabilities of scanning and the amount of services modes it has from showing data to doing rear e brakes to ABS bleeding. On our daughter’s 2022 Honda Accord I was able to program an additional key (having one original key). I am very pleased with it sofar. 3 years of free updates. Continues to work thereafter except for newer than 2028 models unless you pay $99 for further updates. No annual subscription. I am thrilled with this tool.
 
Yeah, I jumped on this bandwagon - it can edit the sensor ID's:


But it can't scan sensors themselves. Strange that Tundra and LC sensors are possibly not compatible? I looked a bit and they seem to both use 315MHz. For comparison I checked Rockauto and there's some overlap on available sensors between a '15ish Tundra and '08 LC. What I should probably try next is change the one sensor ID that was readable with the Launch tool.

I am a dumbass when it comes to these sensors, do they have a shelf life or does the kinetic energy of driving keep them going so long. As with most tech I am 'ye of little faith'.
 
I am a dumbass when it comes to these sensors, do they have a shelf life or does the kinetic energy of driving keep them going so long. As with most tech I am 'ye of little faith'.
If you cannot see them at all I would think low battery in the sensor or a faulty sensor. Did they come with the rims? Then my money is on low battery. Did you buy them on Amazon? Then both failure modes are very possible.

PS I do not believe sensors with a kinetic system in there exist like the Seiko and many other watches. They “just” have a build in battery. Interesting thought though. Maybe not reliable when being spun continuously. Or to expensive for the application.
 
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I have no idea what the sensors are, the wheels were bought third hand off FB marketplace, they have K02's installed, so I'm guessing stock sensors based on the overall good condition of the wheels, but pretty worn tires (noisy). Probably taken off once the BFG's were worn down enough.
 
Consider getting the right new tpms’s for all wheels and putting new tires in the process.

You could recoat the wheels to your liking at the same time unless they are good for your taste as is.

Unless there is a state inspection issue, you could also just check tire pressures more frequently and visual check for lower pressure until you replace the tires.
 
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Tundra sensors pretty much guaranteed not to work. Unless they were aftermarket. When looking at aftermarket it’s possible the same sensor works with body systems as some sensors are universal-ish.

The sensors have batteries in them. Never heard of any with self charging systems.
 
On a whim I tried entering in the one good scanned sensor ID in via the Launch tool, and of course it didn't take it. The original mission was figuring out the state of the sensors anyway, so at least I can budget in new sensors when I get new tires.
 
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Hi I picked up these Tundra wheels to put on my 2013 LX 570. My question is can I reuse my lug nuts or do I need to pick some up that fit the Tundra?
 
Got my wheels rebalanced today. I did a couple of hundred of off-road miles, hit some serious mud and had to pressure wash the rims and undercarriage. The left side that didn’t hit mud was fine, but both right wheels were out of balance. Is this gonna be a common thing? I usually stick to desert/dry off roading.
 
Got my wheels rebalanced today. I did a couple of hundred of off-road miles, hit some serious mud and had to pressure wash the rims and undercarriage. The left side that didn’t hit mud was fine, but both right wheels were out of balance. Is this gonna be a common thing? I usually stick to desert/dry off roading.
I wouldn’t say it’s common, especially after a wash. Might depend on the type of mud. Maybe pull a right wheel and look for stuck mud or missing weights?
 
Got my wheels rebalanced today. I did a couple of hundred of off-road miles, hit some serious mud and had to pressure wash the rims and undercarriage. The left side that didn’t hit mud was fine, but both right wheels were out of balance. Is this gonna be a common thing? I usually stick to desert/dry off roading.
Can happen if mud is built up in spots and not uniform.

Other potential is that you lost a wheel weight or two pressure washing (or in the mud) if they are stick on weights and they were not glued well.
 
Can happen if mud is built up in spots and not uniform.

Other potential is that you lost a wheel weight or two pressure washing (or in the mud) if they are stick on weights and they were not glued well.
They lasted 7k miles. I hit some serious muck in northern NV/nor cal. Also hit a few sizable boulders at speed which I swore bent my wheels. But the good ol’ forged TRD wheels were fine. Thank the lord.
 
They lasted 7k miles. I hit some serious muck in northern NV/nor cal. Also hit a few sizable boulders at speed which I swore bent my wheels. But the good ol’ forged TRD wheels were fine. Thank the lord.
Sorry, I kind of read your post wrong.

So when you went to the tire shop to rebalance after your mud run, the wheels were clean? Only thing I can think of that would cause problems with balance, is mud, excessive tire wear, or wheel weights missing.
 
I am looking at installing a Victron DC-DC charger that has a 12v voltage remote on-off. How would one detect that the engine is running? Or really the alternator. As opposed to power being supplied such as when the aux is on.
 
I am looking at installing a Victron DC-DC charger that has a 12v voltage remote on-off. How would one detect that the engine is running? Or really the alternator. As opposed to power being supplied such as when the aux is on.

The Victron Orion-Tr Smart (make sure it has "smart" in the name) series of DC-DC chargers has multiple ways. It can be put on a switch to turn on. Or it can auto-detect engine on via voltage thresholds (e.g. only turn on if it detects over 13V from car input). You can also use their phone app via BT (to program) but also switch on/off.

I have this unit and it's great, nice and compact.

 
Thanks but for what I am doing the Victron Orion-Tr Smart cannot be used (others have tried). It need to be the "dumb" version.

Any particular reason? The smart version can do everything the dumb version can do by putting it in power supply mode. I believe in that mode, it'll still have the detect features to turn on. Just doesn't bother managing charge profiles for batteries on its output and has a user configurable static voltage.
 
Any particular reason? The smart version can do everything the dumb version can do by putting it in power supply mode. I believe in that mode, it'll still have the detect features to turn on. Just doesn't bother managing charge profiles for batteries on its output and has a user configurable static voltage.
See this thread on using it to charge a power pack. Basically the voltage get throttled which limits charging.
 
See this thread on using it to charge a power pack. Basically the voltage get throttled which limits charging.

Copy. I guess I don't necessarily see throttling as a problem as the unit is likely responding to voltage sag at the input or heat.

Having done this stuff for awhile, I personally don't like to push high wattages as that's wear and tear on the electrical system and alternator. Having a Smart DC-DC device that can respond and manage loads is a good thing.
 

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