SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (13 Viewers)

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How do you monitor tire temperature with OBD Fusion?
Set up a second dashboard page. You have to scan a different network… I can’t recall which offhand. Tire temps in F and pressures in kPa are available. When you flip to the second page they’ll load.
 
Set up a second dashboard page. You have to scan a different network… I can’t recall which offhand. Tire temps in F and pressures in kPa are available. When you flip to the second page they’ll load.
Do you need special TPMS or something on the tire/wheel itself? I have a 2010 LX
 
Do you need special TPMS or something on the tire/wheel itself? I have a 2010 LX
Stock senders also transmit temperature, it just usually isn't displayed on the dash. You can see the live data in the relevant Techstream module if you have that.

Keep in mind the temp of the sender isn't necessarily the same as that of the tire carcass.
 
Why does temp data matter? Those limit specs aren't released and for good reason. Just wanna see more data for data sake?
 
Does anyone see an issue with using (mixing) a quart of M1 75w-90 LS and a quart of M1 75w-90 Delvac in my front diff?

2013 LX. Thanks.
 
Waking up on a frosty morning in the mountains. It was an unexpectedly cold weekend.

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Do you need special TPMS or something on the tire/wheel itself? I have a 2010 LX
I don’t know what info 2010 provides but my 2013 LC has the info. If you can find the pressure in OBD Fusion the temps are in the same menu
 
I did, yep. Minor mpg improvement. Minor engine smoothness improvement
I suggest rock auto for the parts, good prices on denso and hitachi there, and authenticity is not in doubt.
I got some fake coils somehow (looked identical, but a couple failed pretty quick), the authentic denso equivalent (Toyota pn sanded off) working good.
How many miles did you go before replacing? Did you do it all at once?
 
Can anyone offer advice on the most rear, passenger side spark plug for a 2016+

I read the how to's for that dang plug. Looks like my 2016 coolant lines have a different setup than pre-2016.

There is a coolant mount on top of this plug, but the mount is permanently attached to those coolant lines..

Any recommendations on that one?
Thank you gents, if I missed this being mentioned somewhere I apologize
 
Can anyone offer advice on the most rear, passenger side spark plug for a 2016+

I read the how to's for that dang plug. Looks like my 2016 coolant lines have a different setup than pre-2016.

There is a coolant mount on top of this plug, but the mount is permanently attached to those coolant lines..

Any recommendations on that one?
Thank you gents, if I missed this being mentioned somewhere I apologize
Maybe this video would help?
 
Can anyone offer advice on the most rear, passenger side spark plug for a 2016+

I read the how to's for that dang plug. Looks like my 2016 coolant lines have a different setup than pre-2016.

There is a coolant mount on top of this plug, but the mount is permanently attached to those coolant lines..

Any recommendations on that one?
Thank you gents, if I missed this being mentioned somewhere I apologize
You need to loosen the bolts that attach the metal coolant line to the cylinder head. There are 2. It is normal that the coolant lines are welded to the bracket.
 
Stupid question: Is it possible to drop the front lower control arm on an LX without bleeding the AHC? I need to drill out a broken bump stop and need the LXA out of the way.
 
Stupid question: Is it possible to drop the front lower control arm on an LX without bleeding the AHC? I need to drill out a broken bump stop and need the LXA out of the way.
Yep. Leave the UCA pivot bolt and upper ball joint nut tight and it’ll even support the weight of the knuckle/CV/etc while you do the work.

Just loosen the two large bolts into the bottom of the knuckle, remove the lower strut bolt, remove the sway bar end link bolt, and loosen the LCA pivot bolts. It’ll swing right down.

Note that you’ll need a large torque wrench for the LCA pivot and lower ball joint bridge to knuckle bolts. 207 and 221ft-lbf IIRC.
 
Could someone please tell me the name of the Florida company that got the contract to armor the Land Cruiser's recently?
 
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Miami Armored?

International Armored Group USA?
 
You need to loosen the bolts that attach the metal coolant line to the cylinder head. There are 2. It is normal that the coolant lines are welded to the bracket.

Thank you guys! Got them all. The dang electrical clips on top of the coils are the worst part. Lol
 
What sort of nonsense am I in for if I'm looking to change a single TPMS sensor associated with my current wheels? I have a single OEM wheel with original Dunlop that I'm going to be changing to an HE wheel with larger tire so I don't have a single silver wheel on my rig 80% of the time during the 5 wheel rotation.

I've got new tires to be installed shortly and all the TPMS (oem expensive bits) to go with it. What I don't have is the experience to "swap" one sensor in the cpu such that I don't have the tpms light illuminated all the time. I've got a high end programmer and used to have a dedicated laptop with techstream that decided to stop working on me....with that said, any words of wisdom or existing thread links would be appreciated. TIA.
 
This bugs me. It just started happening over the last several months. The rest of the LX looks great, but the bumper cover always looks dirty because of the paint spots peeling.

I'm considering just buying a new cover and taking it to a local body shop to repaint. Then I wouldn't have to worry about broken clips.

Do I have any other options than a full repaint of the entire cover?
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This bugs me. It just started happening over the last several months. The rest of the LX looks great, but the bumper cover always looks dirty because of the paint spots peeling.

I'm considering just buying a new cover and taking it to a local body shop to repaint. Then I wouldn't have to worry about broken clips.

Do I have any other options than a full repaint of the entire cover?
View attachment 3899589
Vinyl/colored PPF wrap. But that’s just going to cover it up, not address it. Your bumper/front of the car is going to take it on the chin while driving unfortunately. I’ve got my third windshield to prove that.
 

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