Spy Photos...FJ62

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Good to know. Trying to make it inconspicuous/sleeper style. Besides, it'll be good to "kill the ce light with a snip".
It was precious though...the look on the guys face when I lost it! Kinda like: "oh gawd, what'd I do? Is he with the postal service?".
 
Replaced the fusible link, and voila many electrical gremlins were slain:clap:...Old one was toast/cracked/corroded.
Still, I gotta figure out where the fault is since my heater fan doesnt work, low beams dont work, and the tail/brake lights still dont work. Already checked fuses, and grounds...

Cant drive it without brake/tail lights or a heater (its snowing).:doh:

Also took care of the VSS, hood gasket, and pass door gasket wrapped up.
Not much, but its all the time I had. It did fire up perfectly for me though! (wish I had a video camera to share).
 
Check the wires back in the 1/4s. If the tail/marker light combo gets shorts in it...it wipes about a bunch of stuff. I blew way too many fuses tracking down the same short...so that's where mine was if that helps.
 
Been a loong time comin', but its becoming my DD. Burned in the Marlin/TG sliders yesterday, got in my LED's, Susquehana MotorSports headlight harness, Schucks HID's, tossed on the ARB, Warn M8000 with synth line, etc. Quite happy, but I gotta get onto the front knuckles as they are dripping with the dreaded goo.

As she stands today:

PC012540.jpg

PB272539.jpg


Now, is this overkill? I dont want to do anything half-assed.

PC012542.jpg


The next dry day off I'll be tearing into things...

BTW: what is everyone using to push out them knuckle bearings or are you guys just pounding them out with a driver? Got some more goodies coming in the mail (ie: Downey Radiator). Good to be back on the road.
 
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I don't see any towels...you'll need lots of those :) oh and disposable plastic sheet..it helps, unless you don't care about getting grease and grime all over the floor of where you work.

Are those Trail Gear Rock rings? I love mine. they're BEEFY!
 
Nice.... you are going all out eh !!!

I got a generic bearing puller from Harbor Freight and it did the job

91352.gif
 
Henestly, are those lower trunion caps going to do anything for these rigs? Just curious...esp since I'm thinking about the 6 shooters as well.
 
SIX SHOOTERS!! Also the bearing races have tap out points on the back side. You will see them when the goo is gone. Fine looking truck you got there Dirty.
 
Nice truck, great read.
 
DirtyLittleSecret said:
Been a loong time comin', but its becoming my DD. Burned in the Marlin/TG sliders yesterday, got in my LED's, Susquehana MotorSports headlight harness, Schucks HID's, tossed on the ARB, Warn M8000 with synth line, etc. Quite happy, but I gotta get onto the front knuckles as they are dripping with the dreaded goo.

As she stands today:

PC012540.jpg


Now, is this overkill? I dont want to do anything half-assed.

PC012542.jpg


The next dry day off I'll be tearing into things...

BTW: what is everyone using to push out them knuckle bearings or are you guys just pounding them out with a driver? Got some more goodies coming in the mail (ie: Downey Radiator). Good to be back on the road.
Click to expand...

Im jealous:cheers:
 
Looks like the Longfields are going in this weekend rain or shine...my front has just began leaking like crazy. Found it about 3/4 quart low!

Anyone got details on the steering knuckle bearing preload, and steering knuckle alignment? Or is it just replace shims and tighten to spec using a torque wrench? I cant believe the SST is necessary...

Oh, and with the Poly Performance axles, should I replace the c-clips or just reuse?
 
The vertical alignment SST?
I'm ambivalent about them. There is certainly a need to have the axle shaft centered in the seal or it will kill the seal too early. But given the kind of tolerances that bearings are made to (think millionths of an inch) once this is set up correctly it shouldn't change enough between different bearings that you'd be able to have an effect on the centering with those shims. That is to say that the shims are so much thicker than the total possible difference in bearings as to make it a non-issue.


Now if you are changing some or all of the related parts (knuckles, steering arms, etc.) then I think the SST is again needed.

Did you have to pry those C-Clips off?
 
ntsqd said:
The vertical alignment SST?
I'm ambivalent about them. There is certainly a need to have the axle shaft centered in the seal or it will kill the seal too early. But given the kind of tolerances that bearings are made to (think millionths of an inch) once this is set up correctly it shouldn't change enough between different bearings that you'd be able to have an effect on the centering with those shims. That is to say that the shims are so much thicker than the total possible difference in bearings as to make it a non-issue.


Now if you are changing some or all of the related parts (knuckles, steering arms, etc.) then I think the SST is again needed.

Did you have to pry those C-Clips off?
Click to expand...

So, where does one get this SST?

Havent had the c-clips out as of yet.
 
One thick shim on bottom(don't throw the stock one away, they don't come in a kit) and a thick + whatever is needed on top.

Marlin's seals will take a slight misalignment with out flinching
 
weak-link said:
One thick shim on bottom(don't throw the stock one away, they don't come in a kit) and a thick + whatever is needed on top.

Marlin's seals will take a slight misalignment with out flinching
Click to expand...

Already got the Marlins + a spare. Is the 1 thick on bottom and thick + on top a regular trick? Was just planning to reuse what shims are already there as I'm certain this has not been done before on this rig.
Or should I just take measurements with a caliper and use new replacements?

Thanks guys!

Will be using the FSM, and the infamous:
http://www.birfield.com/~morgan//tech/axle/index.html
 
Make sure you use the stock thick on bottom and just work the top to get your pre load.


New bearings are gonna throw things off a bit, but is only takes 5min to get the right pre load when you get to that point.

just use the fish scale and read the fsm, you'll be good.





FYI Those new outer bushings can seize on longs, seen it happen to more then one.
 
Hey thanks WeakLink. BTW: great Bully site. Mrs. Dirty runs the Bouvier des Flandres rescue. Nose prints are simply custom accessories.

All tools, FSM, oils, wire brushes, degreasers, towels (7 rolls), gloves, parts, moly grease, tarps, and Rubbermaid bucket accounted for. Saturday my Cruiser and I got a date...

any other sage words of advice would be appreciated.
 
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Yah... Your FSM....looks nice n clean.... make copies of the sheets you will be using or print out everything on the birfield website... I did..... once you start and get nice and greasy your FSM will get all busted up....

I didn't use a tarp.. they move around and dont suck up any oil grease card board or plywood works best... I think....

Have fun !!!
 
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