Split rims

[NMC_EXP]

Good point about the split in the ring & the valve opening... make perfect sense. I don't recall aligning the ring that way when I mounted mine. I still need to get these balanced. I know Harbor Frieght sells a basic wheel balancer. I may DYI it with one of those.

We did not balance the big truck tires so I cannot say how much that technique helps, but it cannot hurt.

When we repaired one of these we left the balance weights in place. Then we used a tire crayon to mark the positions of (1) the valve stem, and (2) the lock ring split. When reassembling we oriented them the same way to hopefully not change the balance too much.

Story about a bad balance situation: One of my coworkers put a brand new 10.00 x 20 tire and tube on the steering axle of an 18 wheeler. Got the tire mounted and on the truck and sent the driver on his way. Half hour later the driver was back. Said the vibration was about to shake him apart.

Our new semi-truck tires were Goodyears. They came with a new flap/liner rolled up tight secured with a rubber band. It was shipped inside the tire casing. When he broke the tire down he found he had left a new rolled up flap inside the tire and put the tube over it. Either he reused the guys old flap and left the new flap in the tire or there were two flaps in the tire. Never heard for sure.

 

[NMC_EXP]

Yeah... After putting some tire talc inside of the tire, I slightly inflated the tube and tucked it into place. Afterwards, tucked the liner in place, lubed up the tire bead and ring before giving it a go. It became easier with time. By the third round I was able to mount the tire without any tools. I doubt I will be using a bucket next time. It wasn't the most stable setup and I just about busted my butt when I lost my balance.

Finding a supplier for the tubes and liners took some time but I referenced them in my build for anyone interested.

The rims I have were used, but I had someone blast them and powder coated as close to the original color as possible. I was very easy with the tire iron as to not mess up the finish.

Talc or mica is a good thing to protect the tube from chafing.

For an install lube we used Murphys Tire Soap. Same as the liquid product for home use but this was a solid material, looked like grease. We would mix a handful in a bucket of water.

You want the tire beads and flap to slide easily across the wheel to come up against the inner flange and lock ring as it inflates. When the rubber sticks to the wheel and finally lets go and slides under a lot of pressure, it can make you need to change your shorts.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

That's how the REMA tire lube looked in the tub it came in, a yellow-brown grease. If I knew about the Murphy's brand and they sold it in smaller quantities I would've gone that route. It doesn't take much to get the job done. As for inflating the tire to set the bead, I was definitely skittish when inflating the first tire. I used a cheap portable air compressor with a preset programmed so I can watch at a distance. I normally curse how slow the portable compressor airs things up but it was greatly appreciated in this situation.

 

[NMC_EXP]

Wise move to wrap it with a chain if you do not have a safety cage.

 

[crawlin cruiser]

Soooo don't toss them??

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Mine are 16 inch rims off of a 70-series. So, tire options are a bit different if you have 15 inch rims. Most of the splits I've seen don't have the clips for the hub caps. Not an issue for me since hub caps are just decoration as far as I'm concerned. Also, if your rims aren't compatible with disk brakes then that would be another thing the factor in your decision. Personally, I'd rather have the 2-piece rim in the middle of nowhere but I wouldn't want them if they weren't disc brake compatible.

 

[kunzma]

So the multi-piece rim is preferred if you are in remote areas because you can change out a blown tire. Where as today's rim/tire combo would be difficult to impossible to change. Right?

 

[KT40]

That's how the REMA tire lube looked in the tub it came in, a yellow-brown grease. If I knew about the Murphy's brand and they sold it in smaller quantities I would've gone that route. It doesn't take much to get the job done. As for inflating the tire to set the bead, I was definitely skittish when inflating the first tire. I used a cheap portable air compressor with a preset programmed so I can watch at a distance. I normally curse how slow the portable compressor airs things up but it was greatly appreciated in this situation.

View attachment 1432738

SDC,
What size tire is that? Looks good! Any pictures of it on the truck?

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Yes... in a remote location a blown tire can be repaired to a certain degree much like you would a bike tube for a bicycle.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

The tires are Goodyear Wrangler MT/R's LT265/75R16

Here's a current picture of the truck with the 2-piece rims.

SDC,
What size tire is that? Looks good! Any pictures of it on the truck?

 

[crawlin cruiser]

@PG45er these are them, let me know brother!

 

[NMC_EXP]

So the multi-piece rim is preferred if you are in remote areas because you can change out a blown tire. Where as today's rim/tire combo would be difficult to impossible to change. Right?

Removing a modern tubeless tire from a drop center wheel in the field is not especially difficult if you have the right tools to break the beads and and tire irons to pry it off the rim. Same for mounting a new tire. Getting the beads to seat on a tubeless tire can be a challenge.

Breaking down a multipiece "split rim" type in the field still requires you to break the beads and that operation is no easier than for a tubeless. Once the beads are free and the lock ring has been removed, getting the tire/flap/tube assembly off the wheel is easy. Reason being it is a "flat based" wheel rather than a drop center so no prying the tire on and off the wheel, it simply slides on/off.

With a modern tubeless tire you can plug a small hole from the outside without removing the tire from the wheel --- big advantage over a tube type. If it is a multipiece wheel it will be a tube type tire. If you have a hole in the tube it is fairly easy to patch it in the field once the tire/tube is dismounted or just throw in a spare tube.

Also with a tube type tire no drama or need to resort to explosives to seat the beads.

If a multipiece wheel is rusted dismounting the tire can be a huge pain even in a tire shop. If the lock ring is sprung or its groove rusty or damaged they can be dangerous.

Out in the field if I had a puncture that could be plugged, I'd rather have a modern tubeless on a conventional wheel as opposed to a tube type on a multipiece wheel.

 

[PG45er]

@PG45er these are them, let me know brother!View attachment 1435282 View attachment 1435283

PM sent.

You prompted some good discussion and information on "multi piece" wheels.
Just to add my 2 cents....on the one set I have, the tires were rusted on to the rims . I fought with them for a while with no success. The tires were garbage anyway so I was able to push the bead down far enough in one spot to get in with a cold chisel and hammer and cut the bead. Was easier than I thought it would be and then the tires came right off.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

A good read for anyone interested:

Beadell Tours - Tubeless vs Split Rims - Safety & Tyre Repair issues by Mick Hutton

I can't find the article at the moment; I do recall someone with a 2-piece rim using wire/gaiters to temporarily stitch a terrible sidewall gouge while in a remote location. The person had an extra inner tube swapped in and manage to use the tire for the remainder of the trip.

Split rim repair outline:

Split Rims

 

[tlaporte]

There is a terminology and resulting misunderstanding problem with this type of wheel. The Toyota type with a wheel and a removable lock ring are classified as "multi-piece wheel" by the US DOT and OSHA. They are NOT classified as "split rims" by the DOT.

I was a truck stop tire repair man for five years back in the 70s when 90% of them were still running on tube-type bias ply tires on multi-piece wheels. This design uses a lock ring to hold the tire bead on one side. The lock ring is nothing more than a snap ring. The lock ring itself is split like a snap ring but rest of the wheel is solid. If the lock ring is seated properly in its groove, as it is aired up it gets tighter.

The true "split rim" is an entirely different design. It also has a lock ring but it is solid. Instead, the wheel itself is split. In the common type the wheel/rim was split radially. When you dismounted one of these the two halves of the split wheel/rim were pried on until one side of the split overlapped the other thus reducing the overall diameter of the wheel so you could mount or dismount a tire. When you reassembled it you had to pry on the rim to get the two sides of the split to mate-up and hopefully stay that way when you aired it up. These things were flat-out scary to work on.

Bottom line is that as long as a multi-piece wheel (like the Toyota) is in good condition and you know what you are doing, they are safe. Be advised that if there is a lot of rust or the lock ring is bent or sprung all bets are off and it may not be safe.

The true "split rims" were fairly dangerous even when in good condition. So much so that DOT banned them, and insurance companies told tire shops not to service them.

Eventually the on-highway truck industry converted to tubeless tires on conventional drop-center wheels people and tire shops forgot about the different styles of multi-piece vs split rims. Now all wheels like these are incorrectly called "split-rims" and unless your local tire man has been working on them for 40 years he will not know the difference.

Like 99% of folks, he believes all multi-piece wheels are "split-rims" and will not lay a hand on one.

You need to run tube type tires on a wheel like this, you also should have a "flap" or liner between the tube and the wheel. If you run radials with a tube, the tube needs to be a radial tube.

I would run Toyota lock rings wheels if I had a set and I would service them myself. If they are not rusty they are simple to break down and reassemble.

p.s. The only truck tire that almost killed me was a radial tubeless on a conventional wheel. One bead blew off the wheel when I was airing it up.

Thanks so much for this post @NMC_EXP

I had a flat on my Troopy and I called around to a half dozen tire shops asking about split rims and they all said either "NOPE!" or "huh?!?" After I read your post I took the wheel and tire to the shop that seemed to have the most clue and said I had a multi-piece wheel with a flat and they took it straight away.

Saved me from heading down the path of getting new wheels!