Anyone actually still use them? Are they worth keeping? Most tire shops won't touch em....
Thoughts?
Thnx dan
Thoughts?
Thnx dan
Split rims (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter crawlin cruiser
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I like the looks of them so I'm going to be putting them on both of mine. I plan on mounting the tires myself, not to difficult to do, and the tire shop I deal with has no problem balancing them. As long as they're not rusted to bad you should be able to use them. If you have some you don't want I'd be happy to take them off your hands 
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They will move about more than a one piece rim, pronouncing any underlying steering issues.
- Thread starter
- #5
I've got a set here you can have for a very good dealI like the looks of them so I'm going to be putting them on both of mine. I plan on mounting the tires myself, not to difficult to do, and the tire shop I deal with has no problem balancing them. As long as they're not rusted to bad you should be able to use them. If you have some you don't want I'd be happy to take them off your hands
I'm supposed to be getting the original set that were on the 1980 from the PO but I've been waiting since last July so if I don't get them soon I may take you up on that. Interesting timing though, I just went by Mclure on TuesdayI've got a set here you can have for a very good deal
There is a terminology and resulting misunderstanding problem with this type of wheel. The Toyota type with a wheel and a removable lock ring are classified as "multi-piece wheel" by the US DOT and OSHA. They are NOT classified as "split rims" by the DOT.
I was a truck stop tire repair man for five years back in the 70s when 90% of them were still running on tube-type bias ply tires on multi-piece wheels. This design uses a lock ring to hold the tire bead on one side. The lock ring is nothing more than a snap ring. The lock ring itself is split like a snap ring but rest of the wheel is solid. If the lock ring is seated properly in its groove, as it is aired up it gets tighter.
The true "split rim" is an entirely different design. It also has a lock ring but it is solid. Instead, the wheel itself is split. In the common type the wheel/rim was split radially. When you dismounted one of these the two halves of the split wheel/rim were pried on until one side of the split overlapped the other thus reducing the overall diameter of the wheel so you could mount or dismount a tire. When you reassembled it you had to pry on the rim to get the two sides of the split to mate-up and hopefully stay that way when you aired it up. These things were flat-out scary to work on.
Bottom line is that as long as a multi-piece wheel (like the Toyota) is in good condition and you know what you are doing, they are safe. Be advised that if there is a lot of rust or the lock ring is bent or sprung all bets are off and it may not be safe.
The true "split rims" were fairly dangerous even when in good condition. So much so that DOT banned them, and insurance companies told tire shops not to service them.
Eventually the on-highway truck industry converted to tubeless tires on conventional drop-center wheels people and tire shops forgot about the different styles of multi-piece vs split rims. Now all wheels like these are incorrectly called "split-rims" and unless your local tire man has been working on them for 40 years he will not know the difference.
Like 99% of folks, he believes all multi-piece wheels are "split-rims" and will not lay a hand on one.
You need to run tube type tires on a wheel like this, you also should have a "flap" or liner between the tube and the wheel. If you run radials with a tube, the tube needs to be a radial tube.
I would run Toyota lock rings wheels if I had a set and I would service them myself. If they are not rusty they are simple to break down and reassemble.
p.s. The only truck tire that almost killed me was a radial tubeless on a conventional wheel. One bead blew off the wheel when I was airing it up.
I was a truck stop tire repair man for five years back in the 70s when 90% of them were still running on tube-type bias ply tires on multi-piece wheels. This design uses a lock ring to hold the tire bead on one side. The lock ring is nothing more than a snap ring. The lock ring itself is split like a snap ring but rest of the wheel is solid. If the lock ring is seated properly in its groove, as it is aired up it gets tighter.
The true "split rim" is an entirely different design. It also has a lock ring but it is solid. Instead, the wheel itself is split. In the common type the wheel/rim was split radially. When you dismounted one of these the two halves of the split wheel/rim were pried on until one side of the split overlapped the other thus reducing the overall diameter of the wheel so you could mount or dismount a tire. When you reassembled it you had to pry on the rim to get the two sides of the split to mate-up and hopefully stay that way when you aired it up. These things were flat-out scary to work on.
Bottom line is that as long as a multi-piece wheel (like the Toyota) is in good condition and you know what you are doing, they are safe. Be advised that if there is a lot of rust or the lock ring is bent or sprung all bets are off and it may not be safe.
The true "split rims" were fairly dangerous even when in good condition. So much so that DOT banned them, and insurance companies told tire shops not to service them.
Eventually the on-highway truck industry converted to tubeless tires on conventional drop-center wheels people and tire shops forgot about the different styles of multi-piece vs split rims. Now all wheels like these are incorrectly called "split-rims" and unless your local tire man has been working on them for 40 years he will not know the difference.
Like 99% of folks, he believes all multi-piece wheels are "split-rims" and will not lay a hand on one.
You need to run tube type tires on a wheel like this, you also should have a "flap" or liner between the tube and the wheel. If you run radials with a tube, the tube needs to be a radial tube.
I would run Toyota lock rings wheels if I had a set and I would service them myself. If they are not rusty they are simple to break down and reassemble.
p.s. The only truck tire that almost killed me was a radial tubeless on a conventional wheel. One bead blew off the wheel when I was airing it up.
I've given up trying to explain the above to people, as anyone born after 1980 most likely has never seen one.
I remember an old boss back in the late 80's showing me one that was still at the shop I was working at, I didn't understand until I actually saw one in person.
I mounted all five tires on a Saturday afternoon. Used a bucket to set the rim on while I stomped the ring in place.
Go to a truck shop in Canada they will put them on. I have them on my FJ45 they look great.
- Thread starter
- #11
So it's like a Toyota bead lock???
There's a lip on the rim and the lock ring can expand enough to seat onto the rim below the lip. When the tire is aired up, the tire bead slips onto the lock ring to keep it from expanding and locking the ring behind the lip of the rim.
Once I started writing this it became obvious it would be kind of hard to understand without photos or schematics of the different wheel types. I spent a few minutes searching but came up with an empty sack.
I never worked on a bead lock wheel. I think the original bead lock wheels were on WW2 era US military vehicles and the outer wheel flange bolted on the main part of the wheel. The flange took the place of a snap fit lock ring.
Good point.
In the US find a tire shop that services 18 wheelers and they may be willing & able to work on them.
If you go to one of the discount tire shops you will be disappointed.
The split ring does not bolt in place. It functions like a c-clip that snaps into a groove. The split ring is tapered to allow the tire bead to slide over and prevent the ring from expanding/releasing from the rim.
Thanks for the vid.
In the shop most of us used a duck bill tire hammer to break the beads then two tire irons to remove the lock ring. Need to be careful not to spring it out of shape.
To reinstall the lock ring we would get it started then work our way around the wheel at little at a time. You could use your feet or we had a heavy, hard rubber mallet made special for the job. A heavy, hard plastic dead blow type hammer would work.
We were taught to position the split in the lock ring 180 deg. opposite the slot for the valve stem. Idea being these two areas of missing metal would somewhat cancel each other out from a balance standpoint.
NOTE: If you work on any tube type tire it is critical to vacuum or wipe all of the crud and grit out of the tire casing before you reinstall the tube. Any sand or rust particles trapped between the tube and tire will eventually make a hole in the tube.
We are on the same page ref: split lock rings. I was responding to a question about modern "bead lock" wheels.
Is that a brand new Toyota lock ring wheel?
Good photo - shows the flap/liner, the proper type of tube and even tire talc.
After you install the tube into the tire do you put enough air in the tube to just get the wrinkles out of it before installing the flap/liner and installing the tire on the wheel?
Good point about the split in the ring & the valve opening... makes perfect sense. I don't recall aligning the ring that way when I mounted mine. I still need to get these balanced. I know Harbor Frieght sells a basic wheel balancer. I may DYI it with one of those.
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Yeah... After putting some tire talc inside of the tire, I slightly inflated the tube and tucked it into place. Afterwards, tucked the liner in place, lubed up the tire bead and ring before giving it a go. It became easier with time. By the third round I was able to mount the tire without any tools. I doubt I will be using a bucket next time. It wasn't the most stable setup and I just about busted my butt when I lost my balance.
Finding a supplier for the tubes and liners took some time but I referenced them in my build for anyone interested.
The rims I have were used, but I had someone blast them and powder coated as close to the original color as possible. I was very easy with the tire iron as to not mess up the finish.
Finding a supplier for the tubes and liners took some time but I referenced them in my build for anyone interested.
The rims I have were used, but I had someone blast them and powder coated as close to the original color as possible. I was very easy with the tire iron as to not mess up the finish.