Anyone actually still use them? Are they worth keeping? Most tire shops won't touch em....
Thoughts?
Thnx dan
Thoughts?
Thnx dan
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I've got a set here you can have for a very good dealI like the looks of them so I'm going to be putting them on both of mine. I plan on mounting the tires myself, not to difficult to do, and the tire shop I deal with has no problem balancing them. As long as they're not rusted to bad you should be able to use them. If you have some you don't want I'd be happy to take them off your hands
I'm supposed to be getting the original set that were on the 1980 from the PO but I've been waiting since last July so if I don't get them soon I may take you up on that. Interesting timing though, I just went by Mclure on TuesdayI've got a set here you can have for a very good deal
There is a terminology and resulting misunderstanding problem with this type of wheel. The Toyota type with a wheel and a removable lock ring are classified as "multi-piece wheel" by the US DOT and OSHA. They are NOT classified as "split rims" by the DOT.
I was a truck stop tire repair man for five years back in the 70s when 90% of them were still running on tube-type bias ply tires on multi-piece wheels. This design uses a lock ring to hold the tire bead on one side. The lock ring is nothing more than a snap ring. The lock ring itself is split like a snap ring but rest of the wheel is solid. If the lock ring is seated properly in its groove, as it is aired up it gets tighter.
The true "split rim" is an entirely different design. It also has a lock ring but it is solid. Instead, the wheel itself is split. In the common type the wheel/rim was split radially. When you dismounted one of these the two halves of the split wheel/rim were pried on until one side of the split overlapped the other thus reducing the overall diameter of the wheel so you could mount or dismount a tire. When you reassembled it you had to pry on the rim to get the two sides of the split to mate-up and hopefully stay that way when you aired it up. These things were flat-out scary to work on.
Bottom line is that as long as a multi-piece wheel (like the Toyota) is in good condition and you know what you are doing, they are safe. Be advised that if there is a lot of rust or the lock ring is bent or sprung all bets are off and it may not be safe.
The true "split rims" were fairly dangerous even when in good condition. So much so that DOT banned them, and insurance companies told tire shops not to service them.
Eventually the on-highway truck industry converted to tubeless tires on conventional drop-center wheels people and tire shops forgot about the different styles of multi-piece vs split rims. Now all wheels like these are incorrectly called "split-rims" and unless your local tire man has been working on them for 40 years he will not know the difference.
Like 99% of folks, he believes all multi-piece wheels are "split-rims" and will not lay a hand on one.
You need to run tube type tires on a wheel like this, you also should have a "flap" or liner between the tube and the wheel. If you run radials with a tube, the tube needs to be a radial tube.
I would run Toyota lock rings wheels if I had a set and I would service them myself. If they are not rusty they are simple to break down and reassemble.
p.s. The only truck tire that almost killed me was a radial tubeless on a conventional wheel. One bead blew off the wheel when I was airing it up.
So it's like a Toyota bead lock???There is a terminology and resulting misunderstanding problem with this type of wheel. The Toyota type with a wheel and a removable lock ring are classified as "multi-piece wheel" by the US DOT and OSHA. They are NOT classified as "split rims" by the DOT.
I was a truck stop tire repair man for five years back in the 70s when 90% of them were still running on tube-type bias ply tires on multi-piece wheels. This design uses a lock ring to hold the tire bead on one side. The lock ring is nothing more than a snap ring. The lock ring itself is split like a snap ring but rest of the wheel is solid. If the lock ring is seated properly in its groove, as it is aired up it gets tighter.
The true "split rim" is an entirely different design. It also has a lock ring but it is solid. Instead, the wheel itself is split. In the common type the wheel/rim was split radially. When you dismounted one of these the two halves of the split wheel/rim were pried on until one side of the split overlapped the other thus reducing the overall diameter of the wheel so you could mount or dismount a tire. When you reassembled it you had to pry on the rim to get the two sides of the split to mate-up and hopefully stay that way when you aired it up. These things were flat-out scary to work on.
Bottom line is that as long as a multi-piece wheel (like the Toyota) is in good condition and you know what you are doing, they are safe. Be advised that if there is a lot of rust or the lock ring is bent or sprung all bets are off and it may not be safe.
The true "split rims" were fairly dangerous even when in good condition. So much so that DOT banned them, and insurance companies told tire shops not to service them.
Eventually the on-highway truck industry converted to tubeless tires on conventional drop-center wheels people and tire shops forgot about the different styles of multi-piece vs split rims. Now all wheels like these are incorrectly called "split-rims" and unless your local tire man has been working on them for 40 years he will not know the difference.
Like 99% of folks, he believes all multi-piece wheels are "split-rims" and will not lay a hand on one.
You need to run tube type tires on a wheel like this, you also should have a "flap" or liner between the tube and the wheel. If you run radials with a tube, the tube needs to be a radial tube.
I would run Toyota lock rings wheels if I had a set and I would service them myself. If they are not rusty they are simple to break down and reassemble.
p.s. The only truck tire that almost killed me was a radial tubeless on a conventional wheel. One bead blew off the wheel when I was airing it up.
I've given up trying to explain the above to people, as anyone born after 1980 most likely has never seen one.
I remember an old boss back in the late 80's showing me one that was still at the shop I was working at, I didn't understand until I actually saw one in person.
So it's like a Toyota bead lock???
Go to a truck shop in Canada they will put them on. I have them on my FJ45 they look great.
I never worked on a bead lock wheel. I think the original bead lock wheels were on WW2 era US military vehicles and the outer wheel flange bolted on the main part of the wheel. The flange took the place of a snap fit lock ring.
There's a lip on the rim and the lock ring can expand enough to seat onto the rim below the lip. When the tire is aired up, the tire bead slips onto the lock ring to keep it from expanding and locking the ring behind the lip of the rim.
The split ring does not bolt in place. It functions like a c-clip that snaps into a groove. The split ring is tapered to allow the tire bead to slide over and prevent the ring from expanding/releasing from the rim.
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