spinning bearing race update, w/ pics

[Brian894X4]

This is in reference to this thread....

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/307698-wheel-bearing-job-complete-but-have-questions.html

I pulled the driver's side front hub off tonight to get a really good look at things and this is what I found....

The race that can be spun in place by hand is the driver's side hub, inner (large) bearing race. The following picture shows the race out of the hub and what it looks like on the race mating surface. 100 miles and a few days ago I had completely cleaned out this hub and put in fresh grease. The grease around the edges of the race was already getting dirty, I presume from the racing spinning in the hub and grinding down metal.

The bearings and races were supposed to have been replaced by a local shop late last year and after pulling them out, they look new, so I think they were. What's interesting is the markes on the hub bearing race mating surface.

People have mentioned punching divits into the hub to keep the races in place. It almost looks like someone in the past did this on my hub. Either that or something got there between the race and hub (probably long before I got the rig and a different set of races and bearings) and chewed things up.

The second picture shows the outer (smaller race) out of the hub and and the hub race mating surface. This race did not spin by hand and appeared to be in pretty tight. It too has the same marks. But the mating surface is different. It has grooves in it, while the large bearing race mating surface doesn't have grooves. Are these grooves stock? Is it that the large bearing grooves have worn down and that's why the race spins?

I have a brand new hub on order from C-dan. Should be here tomorrow. I'll be able to make quick work of getting back into action once it arrives and off I'll go on my trip. I am a little concerned about what the passenger side might look like. More curious than anything.

However, when I had everything apart, it was this side (driver's side with the pictures) that had dirty grease of multiple colors even after a recent bearing repack of less than a year old. The other side still looked pretty clean, so I don't think there's an issue there on that side at all. At least nothing pressing.

One last thing. When I test fitted the bearings on the spindle, they slide on and off very snug with no movement, and the bearing inside surface does not turn against the spindle, so I'm assuming the spindle is OK.

 

[inkpot]

Howdy! I think your on the right track. I would guess that some "Ace Mechanic" tried to fudge a bit and make the damaged hub hold the bearing race by dinging it up. Good thing your fixing right now, before it got really ugly. Spindle sounds OK to me. Just two new bearings and a new hub, and you should be Golden. Good Luck. John

 

[MikePL]

Before anyone attempts to ding a race mating surface it's a good idea to buy loctite for bearing surfaces and axles. It's a special fluid which is applied to lose races and holds them in place. Just my 0.02 in case someone has a similar problem.

 

[elhombre]

I would bet those marks on the inside of the hub are from some monkey using a screwdriver to knock the old races out. It looks like the marks line up with the voids around the inner lip where Mr. T machined them so a person can knock them out. I use a brass drift to knock out my old races. I got it at Harbor Freight cheap. The nice thing is after I round the end off some, I just cut off the mushroomed part so that I have nice smooth surface to work with again. Glad to hear that your spindles are good to go.

 

[fj80toyman]

elhombre's observation x2. My guess is that a non-stock bearing from a parts or bearing store was put in maybe and not the OE part.

Also, save the old race, grind off a few thousandths off the outside and use it as a tool to snugly fit the new race.

x2 on the brass drift from H/F too.


Good luck, enjoy your trip. Dan.

 

[GXO]

I dont even bother to grind the old ones, I just drive in the new with the old in the same orientation and then flip and drive it out using the edge and a brass drift.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Those marks in the upper picture make it clear someone had already tried to fix the loose bearing by staking the hub and didn't know what they were doing. So, good thing you're pullling and replacing the hub at this point, not halfway through your trip.....

DougM

 

[PhrogsPhorever]

X2. Like you said, that mechanic ever hear about a brass drift?

I would bet those marks on the inside of the hub are from some monkey using a screwdriver to knock the old races out. It looks like the marks line up with the voids around the inner lip where Mr. T machined them so a person can knock them out. I use a brass drift to knock out my old races. I got it at Harbor Freight cheap. The nice thing is after I round the end off some, I just cut off the mushroomed part so that I have nice smooth surface to work with again. Glad to hear that your spindles are good to go.

 

[Brian894X4]

Got the new hub today from C-dan and installed it in a few hours. The nice thing about the factory new hubs is that the races are already installed and so are the wheel studs. flange studs need to be ordered or transfered over and installed.

So I can rest easy now as I get ready to leave on my trip in a few hours.

In the end, after really looking at things, It's very possible the old hub and races and bearings all would have lasted for many thousands of more miles. In fact, i wouldn't be surprised if a ton of 80s are driving around there with a similiar condition to mine and not even know it. I only accidently discovered the spinning racing as I would have never thought to check it on purpose.

But peace of mind is worth every penny. Before I'm done I can tell the wife that we're driving a new car...one piece at a time.