Spindle bearings (2 Viewers)

[2001LC]

IMHO: Aftermarket Front drive shafts (FDS, AKA: CV's) are a waste of time and money. Most, high mileage OEM FDS, arent worth rebooting. I'll grade the FDS, to make the call:
1) Any play in CV's rotational or in-out of outer.
2) Any rough feel moving inner CV in and out.
3) Condition of outer axle splines. (This one fails most FDS)
4) Snap ring groove condition
5) Condition of outer axle, where needle bearing rides.
6) Condition of FDS outer axle seal. The one that mats to knuckles seal.

To remove axle needle bearing. I use a brass dowel/chisel (as shown in FSM), mostly. I'll, flatten one end of my brass dowel, on my bench grinder. As it, tends to get rounded with use. The flatten end, catches edge of race well. If rusted in, as bad as yours is. I'll soak knuckle in Evapo Rust. Or a penetrating oil, old ATF works well.

If I've a stuck wheel speed sensor. I clean inside best I can. Then I use, either soft wood like pine (3/4 round) or a rubber mallet, to pound out. I de rust the sensors port, and either add marine grease or paint and add grease.

If knuckle not badly rusted, in need of painting. I use derusting brushes/polywheels

These days. I've a tank (sink) I use to soak knuckles in, to remove rust. Before that I used a 5 gallon buckle, as my soaking tub. Before that or if not badly rusted knuckle in need of painting. I use derusting brushes/polywheels^^^.

I found I

I've found, I do not need to protect (as shown) wheel speed sensor port or threads, from over spray of paint.

When replacing FDS. I also replace, diff side tube seals.

 

[Zuberg]

Interesting about hammering out the speed sensor with a piece of soft wood. Have you ever damaged one with that method?

If stuck I've always just cleaned them well and left them (assuming they're operating properly).

 

[2001LC]

Interesting about hammering out the speed sensor with a piece of soft wood. Have you ever damaged one with that method?

Nope! Clean it, add a little P oil and tap.

The only time I've seen damaged. Is when pried out, from outside.

 

[kjsmiff]

No way in hell.you are replacing CV without removing steering arm and popping lower ball joint.

 

[2001LC]

Not my favorite way.

 

[Malleus]

IMHO: Aftermarket Front drive shafts (FDS, AKA: CV's) are a waste of time and money. Most, high mileage OEM FDS, arent worth rebooting. I'll grade the FDS, to make the call:
1) Any play in CV's rotational or in-out of outer.
2) Any rough feel moving inner CV in and out.
3) Condition of outer axle splines. (This one fails most FDS)
4) Snap ring groove condition
5) Condition of outer axle, where needle bearing rides.
6) Condition of FDS outer axle seal. The one that mats to knuckles seal.

To remove axle needle bearing. I use a brass dowel/chisel (as shown in FSM), mostly. I'll, flatten one end of my brass dowel, on my bench grinder. As it, tends to get rounded with use. The flatten end, catches edge of race well. If rusted in, as bad as yours is. I'll soak knuckle in Evapo Rust. Or a penetrating oil, old ATF works well.

If I've a stuck wheel speed sensor. I clean inside best I can. Then I use, either soft wood like pine (3/4 round) or a rubber mallet, to pound out. I de rust the sensors port, and either add marine grease or paint and add grease.
View attachment 3979161
If knuckle not badly rusted, in need of painting. I use derusting brushes/polywheels
View attachment 3979179
These days. I've a tank (sink) I use to soak knuckles in, to remove rust. Before that I used a 5 gallon buckle, as my soaking tub. Before that or if not badly rusted knuckle in need of painting. I use derusting brushes/polywheels^^^.
View attachment 3979162
View attachment 3979173

I found I View attachment 3979174I've found, I do not need to protect (as shown) wheel speed sensor port or threads, from over spray of paint.
View attachment 3979164
View attachment 3979181
View attachment 3979187

View attachment 3979166

When replacing FDS. I also replace, diff side tube seals.
View attachment 3979186

@2001LC If you're buying Evaporust by the gallon (or 5–gallon) bucket, I can save you some cash.

In one liter of distilled water, add 100–g of citric acid and 40–g of washing powder. If you want a little stickiness, add a squirt of dishsoap. This, and some green color, is the recipe for Evaporust. Pro tip: mix this in at least a 2–gallon bucket/container. When you add the washing powder to the citric acid, it "boils" when the excess oxygen is released. The soap makes it even more bubbly. After 5 minutes, it'll be flat again.

IME, this works better than the commercial recipe, and reuses much longer.

I mix it 2 quarts at a time, because I don't have spare 5–gallon buckets lying around when I mix my batches.

Buy the citric acid by the 2– or 5–pound bag. It stores, closed, forever.

FWIW, you can use baking powder, but you have to use 65–g/mix, to make up for the lack of calcium, which is replaced by the hydrogen in the baking powder.

 

[Bisho]

No way in hell.you are replacing CV without removing steering arm and popping lower ball joint.

I’ve done it several times popping tie rod end and upper ball joint.

 

[Malleus]

This must be an analogous activity to removing an 80 series brake booster, w/o removing the intake. I can't do that either.

Maybe I'm holding my mouth wrong.

 

[2001LC]

@2001LC If you're buying Evaporust by the gallon (or 5–gallon) bucket, I can save you some cash.

I'll try it. Thanks!
I've 14 gallons in the tank. So I buy 15 gallons at a time.

In one liter of distilled water, add 100–g of citric acid and 40–g of washing powder. If you want a little stickiness, add a squirt of dishsoap. This, and some green color, is the recipe for Evaporust. Pro tip: mix this in at least a 2–gallon bucket/container. When you add the washing powder to the citric acid, it "boils" when the excess oxygen is released. The soap makes it even more bubbly. After 5 minutes, it'll be flat again.

"g" =grams?
"washing powder" = laundry detergent? Any particular brand?

IME, this works better than the commercial recipe, and reuses much longer.

I mix it 2 quarts at a time, because I don't have spare 5–gallon buckets lying around when I mix my batches.

Buy the citric acid by the 2– or 5–pound bag. It stores, closed, forever.

FWIW, you can use baking powder, but you have to use 65–g/mix, to make up for the lack of calcium, which is replaced by the hydrogen in the baking powder.

"baking powder" in place of what. Washing powder?

Would you happen to have recipe for CRC OZZY's the microbes in the OZZY Mat filters or CRC SmartWasher system OZZYJuice SW-4 or X-1

 

[kjsmiff]

I’ve done it several times popping tie rod end and upper ball joint.

Then I should be able to get it...slept on it and giving it another try this morning.

Drivers side c snap ring was not still on the axle either, however, the bushing, seal and needle bearing on the knuckle were all good, so saving a little effort and not changing all of that out this time.

 

[Bisho]

Then I should be able to get it...slept on it and giving it another try this morning.

Drivers side c snap ring was not still on the axle either, however, the bushing, seal and needle bearing on the knuckle were all good, so saving a little effort and not changing all of that out this time.

It does take a little finagling to solve the puzzle, but it’s doable.

 

[Malleus]

I'll try it. Thanks!
I've 14 gallons in the tank. So I buy 15 gallons at a time.

"g" =grams?
"washing powder" = laundry detergent? Any particular brand?

"baking powder" in place of what. Washing powder?

Would you happen to have recipe for CRC OZZY's the microbes in the OZZY Mat filters or CRC SmartWasher system OZZYJuice SW-4 or X-1

g=grams
washing powder = sodium carbonate; I should have written "washing soda". I buy Arm & Hammer, but any sodium carbonate will do.

yes, you can substitute sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) for sodium carbonate (washing soda, or sometimes called soda ash), just add more (65–grams vs. 40–grams) to make up for the hydrogen in the baking soda that isn't in the washing soda.

BTW, the formula scales linearly: 1–liter water/100–grams citric acid/40–grams washing soda, 4–liters water/400–grams citric acid/160–grams washing soda, etc. The amount of water isn't critical (you can use quarts instead of liters, it'll just vary the concentration), but the ratio of dry chemicals is; you don't need a certified lab–grade scale, just try your best to get close and consistent.

You can buy a small amount of the citric acid (it's sold here in 7.5–oz jars/bottles for canning) if you want to try it to compare with Evaporust, before you commit to making your own in bulk. IME, it works better and lasts for many more reuses than the commercial formula.

I do not have the inside info on Ozzy juice, but one ad copy claims it has neutral pH and another claims it has "neutral pH surfactants and emulsifiers added". I'm not sure how it's a degreaser if it has neutral pH; it would be worth testing the solution with a pH strip to see. Water has a neutral pH and it's worthless as a degreaser; grease is a protein–based material with a very low pH, so, to decombine it, you need to expose it to a substance with a high pH, like lye, which is what's in most degreasers that eat your skin, like Zep's purple degreaser.
If it is neutral, I have no idea. If, on the other hand, it has a high pH, it's likely a borax mixture, with some soap added to make it sticky. I'm an engineer, not a chemist, so I'm working on a very basic chemistry background here. I'll ask a chemist at work this week and get back to you on my musings here.

As to the mats, your guess is as good as mine. There have been numerous patents issued for oil eating microbes over the past 10 years. I'll look them up for you when I get back to the office Tuesday.

HTH

 

[kjsmiff]

It does take a little finagling to solve the puzzle, but it’s doable.

Got it all wrapped up on the drivers side, still awaiting the new steering knuckle to finish the passenger side. I don"t have a ton of confidence in these aftermarket CV's but time will tell. I am going to rebuild the OEM ones and have those standing by.

 

[Malleus]

When I rebooted my son's 2000 LX470 recently, I discovered the PO had installed aftermarket CV axles. I replaced them with OEM, because. OEM.

They didn't appear to have any wear on them, and he'd been driving on them for 20k miles without any problems. The design is similar to the lighter duty Tacoma/Sienna CV axles, and I'd guess if your use case was exclusively pavement driving, you'd be fine with them. I have no idea for how long you'd be fine, though. They're sitting in the boxes the OEM axles came to me in. And will probably be there until someone begs for a spare trail set or until I clean the stores out again.

 

[2001LC]

g=grams
washing powder = sodium cabonate; I should have written "washing soda". I buy Arm & Hammer, but any sodium cabonate will do.
View attachment 3981774
yes, you can substitute sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) for sodium carbonate (washing soda, or sometimes called soda ash), just add more (65–grams vs. 40–grams) to make up for the hydrogen in the baking soda that isn't in the washing soda.

BTW, the formula scales linearly: 1–liter water/100–grams citric acid/40–grams washing soda, 4–liters water/400–grams citric acid/160–grams washing soda, etc. The amount of water isn't critical (you can use quarts instead of liters, it'll just vary the concentration), but the ratio of dry chemicals is; you don't need a certified lab–grade scale, just try your best to get close and consistent.

You can buy a small amount of the citric acid (it's sold here in 7.5–oz jars/bottles for canning) if you want to try it to compare with Evaporust, before you commit to making your own in bulk. IME, it works better and lasts for many more reuses than the commercial formula.
View attachment 3981773

I do not have the inside info on Ozzy juice, but one ad copy claims it has neutral pH and another claims it has "neutral pH surfactants and emulsifiers added". I'm not sure how it's a degreaser if it has neutral pH; it would be worth testing the solution with a pH strip to see. Water has a neutral pH and it worthless as a degreaser; grease is a protein–based material with a very low pH, so, to decombine it, you need to expose it to a substance with a high pH, like lye, which is what's in most degreasers that eat your skin, like Zep's purple degreaser.
If it is neutral, I have no idea. If, on the other hand, it has a high pH, it's likely a borax mixture, with some soap added to make it sticky. I'm an engineer, not a chemist, so I'm working on a very basic chemistry background here. I'll ask a chemist at work this week and get back to you on my musings here.

As to the mats, your guess is as good as mine. There have been numerous patents issued for oil eating microbes over the past 10 years. I'll look them up for you when I get back to the office Tuesday.

HTH

Sorry all, for hijacking thread on axle bearing and bushing. But, cleaning is a big part of knuckle service IMHO. I do still sometimes just use derusting brushes & scrapers. When, knuckles not to badly rusted or beat on. But we're now going past the 25 year of intended life of the 100 series. So, I like to set up, for next 25 or more.

Good info @Malleus. Thanks again! Any cost savings, is a big help.

Over the years. I've evolved from harsh solvent, that are hard to dispose of. To environmentally friendly cleaners and systems. But it does cost a lot more.

I should add: I've learned to really care for my Evapo-Rust (ER). Also had to get max benefit. I use a bucket heater, to keep ER above 68F, which is minimum activating temp. I'll sometimes, take up to ~220F and boil parts. The higher heat, really speed up the process and gets deeper into pores. I take parts out of my tank, each morning and power wash. Doing so, while parts are hot. Thus, removing the loosened rust & paint. More rust chunks and sediment, I get out of ER solution, the longer it last.

At the same time, I filter out the Evapo-rust. Using some cut OZZY mat filter medium inside bottom of sink drain, and a ATF inline filter with magnet.

I avoid putting brake parts in my Evapo-rust. Brake dust/iron, I believe was killing my Evapo-Rust fast. So I clean off brake dust, best I can first. I just tried CLR (calcium, lime, rust) on brake parts in my sonic cleaner. Work well!. But I do clean those parts first, as good as I can, before CLR bath also. So that, I don't waste the CLR. Perhaps your solution, will work well for brake parts as well?


The OZZY-juice, is not only a degreaser. It's also, the medium that supports health OZZY's microbes. The bad part about the system: CRC states; matts must be replaced every 30 days. That is to add back in, fresh OZZY microbes to the tank. Also, OZZYJuice evaporates. So it too must purchased and add regularly.
So the cost runs up to $225/mo plus electricity for heater on pump. (OZZY mats $25, OZZYJuice W4 $130 or X1 $200)). Average about $2,000/yr., if I don't push the time intervals, and keep use of CRC Smart Washer pump to minium.

Then I should be able to get it...slept on it and giving it another try this morning.

Drivers side c snap ring was not still on the axle either, however, the bushing, seal and needle bearing on the knuckle were all good, so saving a little effort and not changing all of that out this time.

Most times, I'm doing wheel bearing services at same time as knuckle service. But if just going in to replace a needle bearing or perhaps diff side seal or FDS. I prefer pulling off knuckle. Whereas I showed above; FDS can be pulled, by only releasing upper ball joint. We can also remove knuckle with wheel hub/bearing as one unit. But it is heavy, when time come to install.

One of the issue pull knuckle/wheel hub as a single unit other than weight. Is release lower ball joints & TRE. The brake dust shield is in the way of most pullers. I've pullers, that work with brake dust shield on.

Most mechanics and DIY, get a a Big F-ing Hammer (BFH) and beat off ball joints. I never do. I use pullers. Why, beating off, warps the surface where ball joint boot needs to seals.

Just one more thing, that takes my time, during knuckle service. Due to improper releasing of ball joints and TRE from knuckle. I restore many, where someone beating off with BFH has damaged sealing surface.

Pounding and filing flat, so boot will seals properly.

 

[2001LC]

BTW: I've, two extra passenger side knuckles available, if you need one. Restored, with better paint than factory. They'll not rust!