Hi all. I am getting my 100 series ready for my 16 year old and in the process of replacing the CV(s) have found the spindle bearings to be trashed. I can't seem to find them anywhere. They are needle bearings and I need the seal and brass bushing as well. So far, kind of a tough job. Getting the speed sensor out is still baffling me too, so an advice on that would be appreciated.
Spindle bearings (13 Viewers)
- Thread starter kjsmiff
- Start date
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Trunk Monkey
Moderator
uHu
Bridgeburner
Why do you need to take out the speed sensors? Can't remember having to when changing the spindle bearings.
Bearing: Toyota 90364-33011 (9036433011) BEARING - https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/9036433011
Bushing: Toyota 90381-35001 (9038135001) BUSH - https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/9038135001
To late now, but imho, the spindle bearings are the most overlooked service point on the cruisers, and very easy to do when you do brakes or wheel bearings.
Bearing: Toyota 90364-33011 (9036433011) BEARING - https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/9036433011
Bushing: Toyota 90381-35001 (9038135001) BUSH - https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/9038135001
To late now, but imho, the spindle bearings are the most overlooked service point on the cruisers, and very easy to do when you do brakes or wheel bearings.
A lot easier to do this job if you pull off the spindle and do it on the bench. I suppose you could do it on the truck, but you have to get the CV axle out. May as well make it easy on yourself.
I would spray the wheel speed sensor with your favorite penetrating oil, then after a day remove the bolt and twist it out with a pliers.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks for the responses. I ended up pulling the spindle off and disconnected the speed sensor up top. The bearing on the passenger side was fried, so I obviously have to fix it and will do the drivers side as well. I can't seem to get the bearing and brass bushing out so i may have to seek professional help. usually a few miller lite's help me get through these times but to no avail. I will also need to replace the seal. Anyone have a part number for that?
Put your vin number in at Partsouq.com. I'm fairly certain you'll get the best price and probably have the parts within the week.
I replaced these on mine about 85k miles ago. You will destroy the old bearing getting it out. They are pretty fragile. IIRC the brass bushing is what holds it in place, but that was 4 years ago. I think I used a long punch from the front side.
- Thread starter
- #8
Partsouq is a great resource, thank you.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Not to tangent, but I'd be careful now using partsouq with tariffs and now that the deminimus is going away. Cruiser Outfitters has full bearing kits available.
uHu
Bridgeburner
uHu
Bridgeburner
Inner hub seal: 90316-72001
Always change whenever you do any work on the hub. It's critical to keep dust and water out, and grease in so that it doesn't end up on the backside of the brake disk.
Always change whenever you do any work on the hub. It's critical to keep dust and water out, and grease in so that it doesn't end up on the backside of the brake disk.
uHu
Bridgeburner
I tried with a brass rod first, actually a half-inch bolt from my boating days, but it was too soft. Had to go with a steel drift to get enough force on the bastard.
- Thread starter
- #14
Well....all time screw up on my part. When I was taking the passenger CV out a few days ago, there was this random brass colored washer on the spindle that went flying off somewhere. I forgot about that up until an hour or so ago when I was trying to pound out the bearing race, noticing how it didn't look like the bushing (i thought) I was seeing was the same size as what part I ordered (not arrived yet) and took a gouge out of what is not a bushing at all, but part of the machined surface that the previously mentioned mystery washer was probably once seated in. At this point I am telling myself it was always going to need to be replaced since the needle bearings were dry and falling out individually...but lesson learned. Gotta order a new one now $$$$$$
Are you saying you need to order a new spindle? If you gouged the spindle, use a file or sand paper to knock down the high points. Then just put the bearing in. I’m sure you’ll be fine. Post a picture if you can.
- Thread starter
- #16
I just don't think I can get the needle bearing race out. So, from the beginning, when I removed the dust cap, the snap ring was in the bottom of the dust cap and not in the groove on the end of the axle. Then, when I pulled the upper ball joint and got the axle to start working out is when I saw the washer that I now know was the remnants of the brass bushing, but it was flat and didn't have the lip on it anymore. I found a picture I took which probably shows part of that lip from the original brass bushing. As I pulled the axle out more I saw the needle bearings, individually just lying in there, dry as a bone and knew I had bigger problems than anticipated. My dumb ass was trying to drive the race of the needle bearing out and broke off what appears to be the originally machined lip inside of the knuckle. The race is so thin that I can't get a good bite on it and reminds me of a few times in my youth having to use a dremel to cut a bearing race off of an axle shaft because it was sort of melted on there. Trouble is getting in there. I already ordered a cheapo off of parts geek since I have new innards (bearing, bushing and seal) coming, so I hope everything matches up and I can get the speed sensor out of the original.
Then onto the drivers side! This is a vehicle I bought a few years ago, repainted and reupholstered and wrenching on to be my daughters first car. She loves it and I feel safer with her driving something with some durability but It's beeing a bit stubborn at the moment.
Don't have a picture of the inside of the knuckle, but will take one.
Then onto the drivers side! This is a vehicle I bought a few years ago, repainted and reupholstered and wrenching on to be my daughters first car. She loves it and I feel safer with her driving something with some durability but It's beeing a bit stubborn at the moment.
Don't have a picture of the inside of the knuckle, but will take one.
- Thread starter
- #18
Thanks, I will get it all put together and be good to go.
uHu
Bridgeburner
How is the shaft? I remember when having the same problem with a disintegrated roller bearing that the shaft was so gouged that I ended up changing the whole CV-axle. Easiest way out when I had a spare shaft in stock.
