Spidertrax 1.25 wheel spacers BEWARE

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Not sure. Its a 2021 HE.

I may not have explained the issue clearly before. The play in the spacer and hub occurs before torquing the lugs, but once torqued, the play disappears. However, from what I’ve read, there should be no play at all before torquing. I just wanted to clarify this point and see if this is normal or if there might be a problem with the fitment. Any guidance or suggestions would be appreciated.

My (and other’s) point is even if there is play at the hub ring, when tightened correctly they will be centered due to the lug studs being concentric.

@turbo8 also brings up a great point.. your stock lug studs may protrude through the outer face of the spacer and if your wheels don’t have large enough pockets in the correct spots to account for this your wheels will tighten against those, not the spacer flange. With obvious undesirable effects. You can check the mounting flange of your wheels for signs of this occurring.
 
A video of the “play” would help. I’ve seen aftermarket parts (other than the spacer) be an actual problem… or rust.

And quite honestly, if you drove your family and young kids around knowing the wheels were loose, I’d suggest not doing anymore DIY work on your LC. Just bring it to a shop.
Here’s a video I just took.

Let me know what you guys think? Is this normal?

 
Here’s a video I just took.

Let me know what you guys think? Is this normal?



I think you're okay and that degree of play shouldn't be an issue. As you tighten down lugs, work them in stages in a star pattern. Barely seat each lug initially so they can all help find center. Then apply some torque on the next pass. Then fully torque. Torque should be 97 lb-ft. Though I like to go higher on the spacer lugs to 110 lb-ft with blue loctite as they won't be checked often.

Same strategy should be applied when torquing wheels, again to help everything seat centered and flat.

The 1.25" spacer should have the inside studs countersunk within the spacer (pic below). Wheel compatibility with reliefs shouldn't matter. Still worth checking in case you have some aftermarket stud?

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Thanks for the video. To me, though the play looks less than optimal, the tapered lug nuts should center the wheel adapter, as mentioned above.

Do the adapters have the same amount of play when mates to the wheels? (Adapter to wheel, not mounted on vehicle). Any chance the hub centric ring on the adapter is not mating flat with your wheel(s).

You’re probably ready to give up on this but it would interesting to mount just or two at a time to isolate the issue.
 
You’re probably ready to give up on this but it would interesting to mount just or two at a time to isolate the issue.

That is a great idea!
 
I think you're okay and that degree of play shouldn't be an issue. As you tighten down lugs, work them in stages in a star pattern. Barely seat each lug initially so they can all help find center. Then apply some torque on the next pass. Then fully torque. Torque should be 97 lb-ft. Though I like to go higher on the spacer lugs to 110 lb-ft with blue loctite as they won't be checked often.

Same strategy should be applied when torquing wheels, again to help everything seat centered and flat.

The 1.25" spacer should have the inside studs countersunk within the spacer (pic below). Wheel compatibility with reliefs shouldn't matter. Still worth checking in case you have some aftermarket stud?

View attachment 3743314
I did the star pattern in 3 stages. 1st stage tighten but not fully, 2nd stage tighten to 130lbs, then a 3rd to double check all at 130lbs per directions.

The studs are counter sunk so no issues there.

The weird part is no vibrations at local speeds. Only Hwy. After doing some google research, people have concluded if there is play from the start, they tend to have vibrations at higher speeds.

I’m wondering if others have this much play with these Spidertrax.
 
Thanks for the video. To me, though the play looks less than optimal, the tapered lug nuts should center the wheel adapter, as mentioned above.

Do the adapters have the same amount of play when mates to the wheels? (Adapter to wheel, not mounted on vehicle). Any chance the hub centric ring on the adapter is not mating flat with your wheel(s).

You’re probably ready to give up on this but it would interesting to mount just or two at a time to isolate the issue.
On the install I couldn’t really tell. They would sit flush though and I’d tightened from there making sure it was flush/flat.

I am giving up. 🤣. Wanted to keep using the HE wheels but now I’ve made my way onto the Method website.

The tolerance should be much tighter then what I have here. Very suspect with that much play.
 
On the install I couldn’t really tell. They would sit flush though and I’d tightened from there making sure it was flush/flat.

I am giving up. 🤣. Wanted to keep using the HE wheels but now I’ve made my way onto the Method website.

The tolerance should be much tighter then what I have here. Very suspect with that much play.
Did you remove them and then road test again without them to see if the condition is gone?
 
That amount of play at the hub wouldn’t really concern me as well since the spidertrax use a pretty beefy conical lug. Check for play between the wheel and spacer itself. Play there is an issue. My spidetrax have about the same play at the hub as yours but are snug at the wheel.

Also another thing is I’ve always been told adding spacers tend to exacerbate any small amount of imbalance in the wheels/tires. What may feel fine w/o the spacers might have a little highway speed vibration with.
 
I use spacers on my two LC's and do not really understand how those have 'play' in them. I see/hear it on the video but if you place them on a flat surface, do they rock or are they honed flat as expected? If they don't rock on a flat surface then wouldn't it be the hubs that have the defect?
Also, first dibs on the HE take-off wheels if you decide to post them :)
 
check hubs and spacers for flatness
 
Even our non-conical lugs have a relatively tight fitting shank that should center the wheel, again, when using correct procedure.

A tight hub-centric ring just takes out all the guess work.
 
Did you remove them and then road test again without them to see if the condition is gone?
Will report back after hitting the hwy later this week. Local speeds feels good.
Ever thought to call SLEE before you posted here? SLEE is an upstanding vendor and I'm sure he will suggest a solution.
I sent them an email. If they can do something about it, cool. If not, I understand. They have a no return policy on used parts.
 
ive seen the rotor get hung up on lug threads before.....
muti stage passes on the tightening really helps things out
 
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throw a caliper on the spacers, they’re either true or not. Then go back and clean those hubs again, tighten up to spec and then go back for loctite one lug at a time. I’ve used Spidertrax on multiple Toyota/Lexus with stock wheels and oversized tires and never had an issue, so maybe I’m overconfident in their QC, but I usually chalk things up to user error until I can confirm it’s not my bad.
 
Main take away clean the hubs really good, clean the rotor hats inside and out and the inside of the wheel, red loctite on stock lugs and tq down in a star pattern. Also for good measure use a db of grease on the all matting surfaces.

First though get a micrometer and measure it hopefully someone can do the same and make sure yiu got the right part in the box.
 
Main take away clean the hubs really good, clean the rotor hats inside and out and the inside of the wheel, red loctite on stock lugs and tq down in a star pattern. Also for good measure use a db of grease on the all matting surfaces.

First though get a micrometer and measure it hopefully someone can do the same and make sure yiu got the right part in the box.
My micrometer may be off. It’s a cheapo from Amazon.

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I might be stating the obvious here, but at the risk of sounding dumb:

Is it possible that one wheel is unbalanced? Spacers tend to exacerbate unbalanced wheel vibration.
 

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