speaker install writeup (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter skshepherd
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Picked up a set of these speakers and just started the install. Thanks skshepherd for the great writeup.
I cut the wires going to the voice coil of the stock speaker. There is plenty of wire left connected to the original speaker connector. Any thoughts on whether it's safe to just solder those wires from the original to the new speaker's connectors or do I need to run new speaker wire?
I cut the wires going to the voice coil of the stock speaker. There is plenty of wire left connected to the original speaker connector. Any thoughts on whether it's safe to just solder those wires from the original to the new speaker's connectors or do I need to run new speaker wire?
Theoretically, it's always nice to get rid of a connector if you can.
Realistically, I'd solder the existing wires to the new speaker. It's not the 'perfect' interconnection, but you won't hear an audible difference, you might be adding only a couple of millivolts of voltage drop across the oem connector, and it'll make door panel removal easier in the future.
As auto connectors go, Toyota makes some really effin' good 'uns
.hth
-hanko
Again, thanks for this writeup and the tip on these speakers. Very happy with them.
I also installed Phoenix Gold RSd 6.5 coax speakers in the rear doors:
Phoenix Gold RSd6.5 (rsd65) - 6-1/2" Speakers - Sonic Electronix
I didn't have any problem with mounting depth and the tweeter is relatively flush to the front. I removed the foam ring on the original speaker turned mounting bracket just to give a little extra space.
I also installed Phoenix Gold RSd 6.5 coax speakers in the rear doors:
Phoenix Gold RSd6.5 (rsd65) - 6-1/2" Speakers - Sonic Electronix
I didn't have any problem with mounting depth and the tweeter is relatively flush to the front. I removed the foam ring on the original speaker turned mounting bracket just to give a little extra space.
the crossover serves as a gatekeeper to send only high frequency sounds to the tweeter and lower frequency sounds to the woofer. If you did not have it the tweeter would be trying to reproduce a sound that it was not designed to do (bass) and the vice versa with the woofer
OK, that makes sense, but then why wasn't there a crossover in there from the factory? Is that why the factory system doesn't sound so good?
Also, what happens to the signal that was going to the factory tweeters? It seems that the way it's wired in the write up, the new system will only be receiving the signal that was meant for the woofers in the factory set up.
Also, what happens to the signal that was going to the factory tweeters? It seems that the way it's wired in the write up, the new system will only be receiving the signal that was meant for the woofers in the factory set up.
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Factory sound systems with separate woofers and tweeters general have mickey mouse little crossovers built right onto the speakers themselves. That's probably what the little electronic components are that you can see in his pic of the factory tweeter. I don't see anything obvious on the pic of the factory woofer but I'm sure it's there. It's usually just attached to the side of the magnet somewhere.
The signal coming out of the stereo and going to the woofer and tweeter is actually the same. Well...there's a left and a right but there is not a separate signal for high and low. It is the job of the crossover to split that signal into high and low. So, in the factory configuration, the Front Left (say for example) signal probably went to the woofer and then split off to the tweeter. In his aftermarket setup, the Front Left signal goes to the dedicated crossover and then splits to the woofer and tweeter. Make sense?
I might pick up a set of these for the front door. I have a set of kenwood for the rear door. The factory speakers are god awlful. What about the rear sub? Any good replacement speakers for it?
Front speaker install on 2002 - replacing JBL speakers
This excellent writeup seems to be one of the only ones that still has pictures, so it was a great help for me yesterday while installing my new Infinity Reference 6030cs component speakers on my 2002 that had the stock JBL speakers. I'm updating this thread with a quick visual revision since the speaker stock mounting system seems to be slightly different than the earlier Hundy's, and this might help someone in the future by having the two installs in one place.
I replaced my front speakers only (so far) with Infinity Reference 6030cs component speakers. They are 6.5", 270w, 2-Ohm - pretty much a direct replacement for stock speakers on paper, and highly praised by the other Hundy owners who've also installed them. The only
challenge is that you have to wire up the crossovers and do some slight modifications to the mounting system, which was stupidly simple.
Step 1 is to get the door panels off - there's a pretty good writeup found HERE. The only thing I had difficulty with is removing the trim plate behind the door lock mechanism. If you look carefully at the face of this part you'll see a black plastic "pin" between the lock and the trim piece - you need to get a flat screwdriver between this to unclip the top and bottom, then slide the trim piece toward the lock to unclip the little "J" clip behind the solid section. Do not try to pry between the trim and door panel, you'll most likely break something. After door panels are off, everything is accessible and is very simple to remove speaker parts.
I didn't take pics of everything, just the relevant items that are different.
Here I've already got the JBL speaker removed from the mounting bucket - simply unbolt the 4 mounting screws and used a sharp utility knife to cut through the rubberized gasket material to release the speaker. In this pic is the stock housing with the new speaker resting in place to determine mounting
the Infinity mounting diameter is slightly smaller than stock, and there are 2 plastic tabs preventing them from mounting flush. Tab removal and adapter plates will be necessary for correct speaker install
adapter plates underneath:
20 seconds with a small saw removes the tabs:
screw the adapter plates onto the housing (original screws in these holes were only 1/2", so pre-drilling was necessary to seat the replacement 1"+ screws the Infinity's come with). Then install the supplied gasket on the edge of the speaker. Lastly screw the speaker into the adapter plate which should already be installed on the housing:
Optional: solder stock speaker connections to the back of the speaker. Other option would be to put new connectors on the wires since the JBL setup has perpendicular connections vs the parallel ones on the Infinity's:
JBL tweeters were bolted to the mounting brackets instead of glued like the OP's rig had. I mounted my tweeters the same as the OP by using some heavy-duty foam tape (mine was servo tape for RC's - stuff holds like crazy!)
These last pics are where I chopped into the stock wiring to get my crossovers wired up. I did the optional connection method and soldered everything vs using crimp connectors. Used shrink tube to protect my connections vs tape. Tapped into the woofer wires to use as my inputs, but from research I guess either the tweeter or woofer wire could be used since the stock tweeters have capacitors on them - thus confirming the signal is the same for either set of wires.
Crossover location. Used 2 pieces of servo tape on the backs of crossovers for mounting
Before putting it all back together, make sure to test the system!!! I didn't and ended up having to take the panels back off. Problem for me was the soldering on the back of my driver's side tweeter grounding out on the tweeter mounting plate -- took me forever to figure that one out! If I'd do it over, I'd put liquid electrical tape over the solder joints on the tweeters before installing (wasn't my solder joint so I didn't even think about it when installing). Overall, I am VERY pleased with the new speakers. I put my crossovers on the +3db setting and I think it sounds much more crisp in the Cruiser. Very clean sound...now I just need to work on the back doors and the subwoofer
This excellent writeup seems to be one of the only ones that still has pictures, so it was a great help for me yesterday while installing my new Infinity Reference 6030cs component speakers on my 2002 that had the stock JBL speakers. I'm updating this thread with a quick visual revision since the speaker stock mounting system seems to be slightly different than the earlier Hundy's, and this might help someone in the future by having the two installs in one place.
I replaced my front speakers only (so far) with Infinity Reference 6030cs component speakers. They are 6.5", 270w, 2-Ohm - pretty much a direct replacement for stock speakers on paper, and highly praised by the other Hundy owners who've also installed them. The only
challenge is that you have to wire up the crossovers and do some slight modifications to the mounting system, which was stupidly simple.Step 1 is to get the door panels off - there's a pretty good writeup found HERE. The only thing I had difficulty with is removing the trim plate behind the door lock mechanism. If you look carefully at the face of this part you'll see a black plastic "pin" between the lock and the trim piece - you need to get a flat screwdriver between this to unclip the top and bottom, then slide the trim piece toward the lock to unclip the little "J" clip behind the solid section. Do not try to pry between the trim and door panel, you'll most likely break something. After door panels are off, everything is accessible and is very simple to remove speaker parts.
I didn't take pics of everything, just the relevant items that are different.
Here I've already got the JBL speaker removed from the mounting bucket - simply unbolt the 4 mounting screws and used a sharp utility knife to cut through the rubberized gasket material to release the speaker. In this pic is the stock housing with the new speaker resting in place to determine mounting
the Infinity mounting diameter is slightly smaller than stock, and there are 2 plastic tabs preventing them from mounting flush. Tab removal and adapter plates will be necessary for correct speaker install
adapter plates underneath:
20 seconds with a small saw removes the tabs:
screw the adapter plates onto the housing (original screws in these holes were only 1/2", so pre-drilling was necessary to seat the replacement 1"+ screws the Infinity's come with). Then install the supplied gasket on the edge of the speaker. Lastly screw the speaker into the adapter plate which should already be installed on the housing:
Optional: solder stock speaker connections to the back of the speaker. Other option would be to put new connectors on the wires since the JBL setup has perpendicular connections vs the parallel ones on the Infinity's:
JBL tweeters were bolted to the mounting brackets instead of glued like the OP's rig had. I mounted my tweeters the same as the OP by using some heavy-duty foam tape (mine was servo tape for RC's - stuff holds like crazy!)
These last pics are where I chopped into the stock wiring to get my crossovers wired up. I did the optional connection method and soldered everything vs using crimp connectors. Used shrink tube to protect my connections vs tape. Tapped into the woofer wires to use as my inputs, but from research I guess either the tweeter or woofer wire could be used since the stock tweeters have capacitors on them - thus confirming the signal is the same for either set of wires.
Crossover location. Used 2 pieces of servo tape on the backs of crossovers for mounting
Before putting it all back together, make sure to test the system!!! I didn't and ended up having to take the panels back off. Problem for me was the soldering on the back of my driver's side tweeter grounding out on the tweeter mounting plate -- took me forever to figure that one out! If I'd do it over, I'd put liquid electrical tape over the solder joints on the tweeters before installing (wasn't my solder joint so I didn't even think about it when installing). Overall, I am VERY pleased with the new speakers. I put my crossovers on the +3db setting and I think it sounds much more crisp in the Cruiser. Very clean sound...now I just need to work on the back doors and the subwoofer
Thanks to both highonpottery and skshepherd for the great info in this thread. I was able to bang all four doors in a few hours last weekend. Much appreciated!!!
I'm working on that one tonight -- using this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/282462-how-replacing-oem-subwoofer-3rd-row.html
Using the subwoofer from this post: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8214692&postcount=82
$17 on Amazon!
Using the subwoofer from this post: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8214692&postcount=82
$17 on Amazon!
Yup, sub was EASY following those guides.
Went to replace my speakers today and couldn't get it done. Apparently I have different speakers than others. And the front has "rear" speakers. Not sure what's in the back doors.
I dropped in the DB Polk series front no rear speakers with the front 1" tweeter. Then I bypassed the factory amp. It sounded much better than stock. I had had some tweeter feedback on the PS so I decided to drop in the Polk crossovers. Hands down one of the best upgrades to the whole system. The tweeters only pushed high end sounds while the base in the door speakers increased 10x. I know love my new HU and speaker system. Before I did the amp bypass and crossovers, I felt ripped off and really pissed at myself for investing in substandard radio.
Weird. Now I have to find a way to mount them since I can't use the "basket" like the OP did.
Wanna mail me a couple of those bad boys?!
