How you all doing out there?
I'm not seeing much discussion anywhere online about ohms for wires.
I had a rough idle and stalling when accelerating and read about all the possibilities it could be.
Everything from O2 sensors, Throttle position sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, even moisture in the distributor cap, the list goes on.
What it ended up being was a very bad ignition to distributor cap wire. It was so bad that when my lady spotted a spark near the wires when I turned the engine over, I got out to inspect myself, grabbed the wire and it practically broke off at the head of wire connecting to the ignition coil. A bunch of corrosion powder pored out of the wire right at the head. lol Crazy to think how long I was driving with a wire that bad and still getting electricity to the distributor cap. Needless to say, I don't do much maintenance on my LC unless an issue arises. I'm getting better though now that I live in a house and able to work on it more.
So long story short, I grabbed a set of Belden wires #EP404 from NAPA, and only changed out that one broken wire and that fixed all the stalling, accelerating and starting problems instantly. The problem I now have is a very noticeable buzzing sound in my stereo speakers with that new wire. It was there before but now it's even worse.
So now I'm reading about ohms and the problem with wires that aren't low on the ohm reading? What I find interesting is the Beldens claim to be of low resistance. I did an ohms reading on the wires with a multimeter and they appear to be 700-900ohms per foot give or take?
But since I'm hearing that terrible buzzing sound out of my speakers even more when I accelerate, I don't want to change out all the old wires with the new Beldens wires I purchased, so I can return them and buy OEM wires from dealership. I'm not concerned with the price so long as they are the best for both performance and RFI issues get fixed.
Sorry for the long post but as I said, there just isn't a ton of info online about this topic, although I did find enough info on this great forum and a few places on youtube showing the basics of Radio frequency interference issue to get me going on this mission to solve.
I also just wanted to put this out there for anyone who might be having the same rough idle and stalling when accelerating issues, to troubleshoot your wires before digging into harder to work on possibilities.
So with that said, does anyone know what the ohms are per foot on OEM wires? The bad wire I replaced was Yazaki brand which I believe is OEM?
thanks to all who have some info on all this clumped together information I gave.
P.S. I'm now living in Spokane Washington ready to explore the LC groups in my area. I moved from Issaquah west side of the mountains. I had to get out of commie land and so glad I did. God bless those who defend liberty!
I'm not seeing much discussion anywhere online about ohms for wires.
I had a rough idle and stalling when accelerating and read about all the possibilities it could be.
Everything from O2 sensors, Throttle position sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, even moisture in the distributor cap, the list goes on.
What it ended up being was a very bad ignition to distributor cap wire. It was so bad that when my lady spotted a spark near the wires when I turned the engine over, I got out to inspect myself, grabbed the wire and it practically broke off at the head of wire connecting to the ignition coil. A bunch of corrosion powder pored out of the wire right at the head. lol Crazy to think how long I was driving with a wire that bad and still getting electricity to the distributor cap. Needless to say, I don't do much maintenance on my LC unless an issue arises. I'm getting better though now that I live in a house and able to work on it more.
So long story short, I grabbed a set of Belden wires #EP404 from NAPA, and only changed out that one broken wire and that fixed all the stalling, accelerating and starting problems instantly. The problem I now have is a very noticeable buzzing sound in my stereo speakers with that new wire. It was there before but now it's even worse.
So now I'm reading about ohms and the problem with wires that aren't low on the ohm reading? What I find interesting is the Beldens claim to be of low resistance. I did an ohms reading on the wires with a multimeter and they appear to be 700-900ohms per foot give or take?
But since I'm hearing that terrible buzzing sound out of my speakers even more when I accelerate, I don't want to change out all the old wires with the new Beldens wires I purchased, so I can return them and buy OEM wires from dealership. I'm not concerned with the price so long as they are the best for both performance and RFI issues get fixed.
Sorry for the long post but as I said, there just isn't a ton of info online about this topic, although I did find enough info on this great forum and a few places on youtube showing the basics of Radio frequency interference issue to get me going on this mission to solve.
I also just wanted to put this out there for anyone who might be having the same rough idle and stalling when accelerating issues, to troubleshoot your wires before digging into harder to work on possibilities.
So with that said, does anyone know what the ohms are per foot on OEM wires? The bad wire I replaced was Yazaki brand which I believe is OEM?
thanks to all who have some info on all this clumped together information I gave.
P.S. I'm now living in Spokane Washington ready to explore the LC groups in my area. I moved from Issaquah west side of the mountains. I had to get out of commie land and so glad I did. God bless those who defend liberty!
